SBpunk

So my motor has been running hot since the rebuild and trying to figure out why while I wait for parts and things to come in. Cooler day like today its been running around 230 while idling at a stop light. She's almost always just a tad over 210. Put in a ZJ fan clutch just because I had one laying around from a project a few years back. Didn't seem to help much. While I was messing around under the hood I noticed my electric fan wasn't coming on at the higher temps. I read somewhere awhile back that you can check the motor on the fan by turning the A/C on. Once it was on the fan started spinning. Is there a relay or something besides the temp sensor (new) that I can check to see whats going on?

Brand new alternator, starter and optima yellow top with new cables lol

Yes sir. It's a bit better but not much. I've gone through 3 o2 sensors, 3 tps, 2 iac, 2 sets of injectors, 2 sets of spark plugs and a bunch of other stuff. I have a full list at home but short of putting in this new distributor, map sensor and finding another computer it's getting slim on possibilities.ouch! That's a lot of parts to swap test I'm leaning towards wiring problem and/or ecu. But I'd start with some of the checks for map and ecu that have been recommended in the last post or two. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Yeah on top of just flat out rebuilding the entire motor. Had low compression on a couple cylinders so it was going to be needed eventually but to drop that much on this damn thing and its still running like crap. If I can figure out a way to keep the idle around 700rpm idle I'll be good. Runs smooth as can be for a few seconds after start up but the idle drops a little then again down to 550ish and starts shaking.

I haven't but I will this weekend and report back. Will do that before anything else.

Yes sir. It's a bit better but not much. I've gone through 3 o2 sensors, 3 tps, 2 iac, 2 sets of injectors, 2 sets of spark plugs and a bunch of other stuff. I have a full list at home but short of putting in this new distributor, map sensor and finding another computer it's getting slim on possibilities.

Ok figured out something else. So when I first start it or come to a stop it usually idles around 700rpm smooth as can be. After a few seconds it drops to 500-550ish and starts acting up. Anyone deal with anything like that?

OK so fuel pressure is at 31 with vacuum connected and 39 without. Got the CPS in the mail then the new distributor from a 94 to 96 is next

Yeah it hasn't gotten any better with another 200ish miles put on it. Grabbed a new CPS to throw in later after I rent a fuel pressure tester from Orielly's. If its not any of those the only other things I have been able to think of are the Camshaft sensor/Dizzy or the computer itself is shot

Not far since I put the sensors in. I'm taking down to the city this weekend about 130 miles round trip. It's just paranoia I'm sure since it's the same feel as it did prior to the rebuild.

Haven't checked that yet. Thinking my computer might be bad. Not much else left

Its all the time. I was messing with the vacuum hoses and the only sensor I haven't messed with was the MAP. Soon as I unplug it there's a noticeable change so not thinking its the cause. There's less than 200 miles on the rebuild so maybe I'm just going crazy. Just seems like the motor is surging when I'm idle. The vibration in the steering wheel is pretty noticeable too. If the doors are open they look like they're going to shake off the hinges. Motor mounts and trans mount are brand new also. I swapped in a new O2 sensor a couple days ago along with putting in a mopar TPS / IAC. Didn't make any difference even after the reset. Not sure what else it could be. Maybe just needs to settle from the rebuild but its doing the same thing that lead me into thinking it needed a rebuild to begin with.

We just tightened them down to spec with new bolts yesterday when the motor was dropped back in.

Nice I'll check it out. 99% sure it's a 91 to 95 or whatever but meeh who knows. At this point I'd try anything already rebuilt the motor for no reason...

High output map sensor is mounted to the firewall. Unless you're talking about something else?

http://www.strokedjeep.com/ No other mods. Factory air box, new downpipe, thrush welded muffler and autozone special tail pipe. Guess the muffler would be aftermarket.

Yup no codes unfortunately and it's been reset a few times. I'm going to put a map and o2 sensor in this weekend. Always thought it was the low compression cussing the idle but even when he took the motor apart he said it wasn't nearly as bad as some of the others.

1992 LWB 4.0 HO AX15/NP242 Ok just got my motor back from being rebuilt and installed. Double checked all the connections/vacuum hoses. Still has a rough idle. Its inconsistent and I can feel it through the steering wheel. Always most noticeable at idle but can also feel it struggling at speed. I'm going to try replacing all the sensors again but the only vacuum line that isn't connected is the one going to the heater control valve that was deleted awhile back. I'll list the replaced stuff down below but any input would be awesome Rebuilt Motor New copper champion spark plugs New wires from ACCEL New stock fuel injectors New battery New 63mm TB New TB sensors (only one hasn't been changed was MAP) New exhaust from the exhaust header back to the tailpipe (no cat) New radiator Fresh antifreeze/break in oil Honestly I'm out of ideas besides trying to swap the sensors again. It hasn't backfired since I've had it back but it used to backfire out of the intake

Mine were separate also but arrived on the same truck when I ordered them awhile back

It was a 3 ton stand just old and borrowed. Must've had a hairline crack or something I didn't see.

Ok so the truck should be getting back from the engine rebuild soon. I have an 8.8 sitting in the garage I want to get tack welded up to bring to someone with more skill and better equipment than me. My question is the proper way going about it. Body up on jack stands, tires removed from axles, springs at full drop, add axle with perches, slightly tighten down u bolts, jack up/add tires, put the truck on its own weight, use jack to move the angle around and tack weld in place? I'm a couple months recovered from having the truck break a jackstand and crush the crap outta me so worried about the ubolts holding the springs with them under the axle. Safe or not really?

If you have the money I'm pretty sure General Springs will custom make leaf springs for you at whatever arch. I purchased the 1 inch added arch on the metric tons then read someone saying they would've made whatever.

5'6 here and damn near new bench seat but I sunk another couple inches and felt like an old lady trying to look through the steering wheel. Ended up putting in leather WJ seats. Amazing. Kinda wish I had those factory buckets though with the side padding.

I've got 9 or so cans of r12 I found in the attic of our house when we bought it. Was more concerned with the compressor. I do need to grab a new dryer though. Not trying to convert to 134 anytime soon. R12 works like a champ still and it's free so might as well use it. I'm going to talk to a buddy about putting it in after I clean and hook everything up. He's an hvac guy so should know what's up.

So pulled a junkyard AC unit from a 92 Cherokee. Seems like its in good shape but was hoping for some input. I decided to go rogue and tried to add R12 to my old ac compressor and everything started locking up. This time I'm going to get it done by someone who knows what they're doing. Its been sitting in the back of my WJ for about 3 months so besides putting new oil in and having it vacuumed (not sure if that's the right phrase) out anything else I should check for?

That little plastic thing is a disaster waiting to happen. HCV Removal The heat is controlled by the blend air door. I've eliminated at least 10 of them here in Arizona and my AC always works perfectly. Actual field experience has proven time and time again, by numerous different people, that there is NO downside to eliminating the HCV.. It flat works. Period. The other benefits are keeping coolant flowing versus being stagnant in the heater core and the dangers/disastrous results of having a valve fail unexpectedly whether you're poking around the engine bay or driving down the highway or trail. Concur. I had no issues with my AC or heat when I deleted it and ran straight lines. Constant smell of coolant went away and everything works great. It only cost about 15 bucks tops and that was with enough to have extra line just incase down the road.