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Everything posted by SBpunk
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Anytime. I upgraded to 96 XJ booster/MC, deleted my rear load valve and have 8.8 w/ disks in the back. Thing will put you into the windshield if you're not careful. YJ lines up front and chevy in the back (soft lines) so plenty of room for my little 3 inches of lift. Overbuilt hahaha. Eventually I want to get some Black Magic pads. Worth the money but for now the brakes work great on my tire size and soooo much more left to do. Good luck and let us know if you run into any problems. Hornbrod and Eagle have pretty much rebuilt my jeep via forums so awesome resources if you need it.
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Correction 0103. The other one was for my grand wagoneer. https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/chrysler-dodge-mopar-bleeder
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Check out Motive Products power bleeder number 0105. Best 60 bucks I've ever spent. I use attachments for different vehicles but I never have to worry about my brake system. You can check to make sure it has a good seal (no leaks) and you'll be able to bleed all 4 brakes including your height sensing valve by yourself. I deleted mine awhile back and its been great but some people like them.
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The hard line is really easy. Even if you're not comfortable flaring the hard lines you can buy the "easy" flex line (think that's what its called) from NAPA. If you ask they'll flare it right there. Just bring in the old line. For the rubber line look into getting an extended one from a chevy (google it on naxja for the exact years) it will give you some play room and bolts right in.
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Wish I would've seen this sooner. I have an extra yellow and green long gear I would've sent out for cost of shipping
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Here's a pic of the shocks. Just finished all that's left is hooking up ebrake
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Yeah figured as much the more I'm reading into it. Oh well
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Meeh its my first time messing with LSD. If it doesn't work worse case it'll just act like an open diff.
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1992 Jeep with a 1996 transfer case - Long or Short on the speedo gear? I have a short one and was hoping I could get away with using it.
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Following. I did mine in mustang clutch packs and there was one on each side that couldn't fit.
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Photo is from another member here not mine
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There are adapters I linked a few posts up. You use your stock cables to adapter that connects to the calipers.
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Oil leak after new rear main install
SBpunk replied to Scooterlawson80's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
There's UV dye you can purchase to trace the leak. Will safe you some time. -
Lol I wasn't that talented with the cut off tool. Looked like a shark chewed on the old spring plates
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I'll check again but I labeled them (1/3/5) with tape but I haven't checked since the rebuild. Trust but verify hahaha
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Throttle plate will be an easy check. Not sure how to verify the injectors. I have the test lights for them but if have time to explain or a common way to search for a video/how to I'd appreciate it. Honestly I thought it was the throttle body at first since it almost sounds like it's choking every couple seconds not getting air but I've swapped 2 TBs.
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Ok looking like its something in my wiring harness. Swapped out ECU a few weeks ago and no change. That was pretty much the last part. Going to go through all the sensor wiring and test to see which one is failing between the ECU and the sensor itself. Hoping the service manuals give me what readings to look for. So just an update on parts since its damn near a brand new jeep mechanically... Motor rebuild Injectors (stock but new) Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor itself (to replace the camshaft sensor)... New throttle body, IAC, TPS MAP O2 sensors CPS (AX15) ECU Fuses everywhere Battery / cables / terminals Alternator Starter (not sure why that would've helped but it was free) New grounds Fuel filter / pressure tested the lines Finally the vacuum lines have all been tested and/or replaced So still no luck. I'm getting an 8.8 put in now but all that's left that I can think of Is the wiring harness in the engine bay
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Got a question. 1992 stock head unit (can get the numbers off it later) and wanted to get an AUX system put into it. Using something like below I shouldn't have a problem using hands free. My question is like an FM transmitter is there static/feedback on the aux attachment? Ihttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJMV0GU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b1PYB5X_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=VFY0VC3P6VSY8S07WBH5&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=53d7f91b-062c-5d14-b5ac-c3c55542b863&pf_rd_i=1293687011
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If you don't feel comfortable doing that though you can get some shipping quotes from U-Ship.com or something like that.
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I towed mine with a Uhaul car trailer with my 2004 WJ Overland in Oklahoma winds pretty easy. Just kept it under 65 and stayed in the right lane when I could.
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Here's one you can kind of see the shocks. I can get a better pic once everything is set back up.
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I can't remember off the top of my head. I ordered the easy swap kit from ruff stuff and everything worked out great. I got the 3 hole to push my axle back a tad bit since it was starting to creep forward with the new MT springs and longer shackles. I tried to get some pics going for you to show but on a gov computer and they're stupid slow. Pretty sure it was the 3.25 inch since its slightly bigger tubes than the 8.25 and they're 3 inch
