SBpunk

None taken. Yup last two were tested and the hesco pump works perfectly. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

If i can find all the parts I'll send you an azzy one for shipping and the cost of new bushings for the stock one. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Just going to list off all the things I've done to resolve it. Started after I had the motor rebuilt. Everything following is added since then. Head gasket Head 3 different radiators including stock, csf 3 core aluminum and OE Multiple radiator caps including a special one needed for the csf radiator 2 Napa water pumps and a high flow Multiple 195 thermostats all tested prior to install including a Mopar one New hoses/clamps including heater core New over flow bottle and line New belt tightened to 200 per service manual Zj fan clutch and 2 xj fan clutches Later model xj fan Multiple sensors both front and back Multiple gauges even an aftermarket mechanical gauge (tested against an IR thermometer for accuracy) New a/c compressor 10w30 full synthetic oil New exhaust manifold/gasket tested for leaks and cracks. New exhaust everything actually. Coolant system was pressure tested and no leaks. Confirmed with UV dye. 50/50 coolant blend (even tried the additive once with extra mineral water) Anyway I'm sure I'm forgetting something. When it's 80+ my temp will sit at 195 to 210. After driving for more than 20m it'll gradually climb to the red. Electric fan is on a switch but working proper. Occurs even with the AC off but slower. Temps drop at high rpms but when I stop they shoot up higher than beforehand. I was thinking it was a fuel issue but my fuel rail is showing the correct pressure. All new rebuilt stock injectors just before the rebuild as well. Spark plugs are pretty new and not showing any signs of abnormality. New spark wires, distributor with rotor and cap. Only sign I'm getting of anything else wrong is a slightly shakey idle even after new motor/trans mounts. Reflects slightly in the tach but no codes. Basically everything mechanical on this is brand new with OE parts or better. I'm about a week away from pulling the bed and parting it out to recoup some of the cost. Retired so I'll be taking a hit on my paycheck and not going to keep dumping money into an endless black hole. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Finally got it to leak today. Looks like it's coming from the shift selector. Going to get under there again tomorrow. Had to finish up the water pump. Anyway has anyone replaced that bushing? Wasn't able to see if I can get to it while installed. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

The np242/231 is stupid easy to take apart just keep track. I'd never done it before until I needed a new chain. Get one of the large black rtv tubes for a caulking gun and a new oil slinger. After that it's just remember how the Legos went together. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Talk about good timing. Ax15 lube just got here. Gotta wait though until I figure out if I'm pulling the case or not.... Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Sure is. Been perfect since break in. No drone sound and just loud enough to let me know when someones trying to steal the truck outta the driveway. Hahahaha Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

There's still a few inches before it comes out. I'm going to lengthen it once I get the rest of the issues figured out. Might end up just getting an Adams but until then she stays on the road so haven't had any issues. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Forgot to mention the 1 qt is only to see if it's leaking around the seam that's rtv'd. Once it sits for awhile I'm gong to add the rest then let it sit again. After that checks out I'll bolt everything up and run it then check again. Figure it'll save some fluid and time while the crossmember is out. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

OK got the cross member pulled. Drained the case and put a qt with uv dye in to see if it starts leaking. Cleaned it up as well as possible. Bright side the rear isn't the culprit. Also side not any advice on getting this out without cutting it? The skid bolt is spinning. Thinking of gettng some bent needle nose to try and get it out. If I have to I'll cut it then weld a longer plate to a bolt then shove it back up there. Kinda like the frame side nuts for the upper control arms. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Yeeeaaaaahhhh that would be me hahaha. Was my first one/time. Chain was pretty bad. Oh well we'll see but I wouldnt be surprised if I screwed up somewhere

Its coming from the front or center. The oil slinger in the back is bone dry. I'm going to put a qt of ATF4 fluid in with some UV dye to see if I can narrow it down before pulling it. Novak has a pretty decent rebuild kit so I might just redo the whole thing. Has a new chain and have a spare laying around somewheres

Apprecaite it. Wasnt sure if there was a seal there. I know the trans will pour oil out of if you don't drain it before removing the transfercase. Figured that out the hard way.

Been sick due to the Oklahoma weather so havent gotten a chance to confirm so I figured I'd hit you guys up. Put the front DS in my jeep finally and had some rattling that sounded like a loose exhaust a few days ago. Got down there and started checking but nothing is moving. Since shes been parked a few days now theres a nice little puddle of red fluid under the case. I'm thinking the extra load and maybe bad torque on the bolts might've separated the case from the transmission. What do you guys think?

Any tips on how to restore the padding on the bench seat? Finally got the bottom cover off. Rings were rusted badly but think some longer staple gun staples will do the trick. Would just like to get the foam a little stiffer/thicker.

Yup. Watched about 2 hours of videos yesterday about it. Stress tests, impact tests and weight testing showed almost no decrease in tensile strength.

Yeah the bottom piece of the retractable end doesnt line up. Has to be heated and bent or just bent.

Where did you find replacements? I know most are for XJ's and they can be modified to fit just trying to avoid it.

I wasn't going to attempted it until I heard from someone with more experience than me. Living in a small town so no junk yards within 2 hours or so. I have an extra set to test it on once I get some feedback but yeah definitely not going to ruin them without some guidance lol

So having no luck finding black seat belts. I decided I'm just going to dye mine with acid dye. Is it possible to remove them from the shoulder retractors and not break the system?

Have a factory roll bar for partial trade with brackets and new grade 8 hardware. Let me know your price

Nice I didnt think they were made anymore! Looking it up now. Appreciate it!

I tried to run them behind the shocks. Of course it didnt dawn on me to feed them through the C's before putting the adapters on. That was fun. Any tips for getting them un-seized if thats the issue? Was thinking heat or penetrating spray and hope for the best.

I'm going to detach everything once the alignment is done tomorrow and see if they're moving freely. There's about an inch between the 'stopper' part toward the end of the line on the brake side and the C retainer built into the axle. The brakes leaver on the axle move freely when pulled. I'm wondering if the lines are too long but it might be that the cables are locked up. Theyve been shoved up into the bed framing for over a year.

So finally installed my adapters for the parking brake/8.8 but running into an issue. I cannot get the brakes to engage. I think the stock LWB back lines are too long. The adjuster is tightened down to the point where I can't even press the parking pedal down and nothing. Anyone have any suggestions?