SBpunk

Looking for a working sender shipped to 73703. PM or email me at larry.harris1984@gmail.com

Throw a moose in the back to test those M/T springs hahaha. My buddy's 2500HD was almost scraping the ground at the bed. Looked like one of those "cool" kids that can't afford the rear part of their lift.

Was reading through the write ups was pretty late last night so haven't had a chance to test since I'm at work still. I'll probably end up moving the air sensor back if it keeps going also. Was worth a shot. Getting ready to shoot you a msg too got a quick question about something off topic.

So I'm about done with this thing. After getting pissed about the over heating I decided to do something different and move the air temp sensor to the air filter lid. Easy project no big deal. Once I was done I decided to run the codes just to make sure nothing was shorting out. Popped a 12, 13, 23, 24 and 35. I've gone through and check them all out individually and aside from the ground was wondering if there's anything that would cause this type of chaos? I ordered an NTK O2 sensor since I keep getting horror stories about Bosch but the MAP and IAC are both new Mopar parts. Also anyone have a good link for relays that'll fit in the fuse block. I have a few but they have the hanger on the back. Could grind them down to fit but seems like a waste? 13**: No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP) from start to run. 23**: Intake air temperature sensor signal above or below acceptable voltage. 24**: Throttle position sensor signal above or below acceptable voltage. 35*: (XJs only) Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted.

Yes sir. I believe its the passenger side. Been awhile. The harness, bulb holders and the cap that covers at the bumper

Have you ever thought about selling a dual battery set up like idea two on this link? http://www.junkyardgenius.com/charging/dual01.html

Has anyone used their bench seat cover? Figure its cheaper than reupholstering and the endura type material is pretty tough.

I thought I was going to have to when I did the disk brake conversion but I guess, and I'm no expert, when I did the 96 booster and MC swap theres enough pressure with the MJ block to get the rear brakes locked up. I haven't upgraded the front pads yet. When its time definitely going to black magic pads. Correct. Prematurely........ Like I said definitely no expert. My rear only locks up if I slam on them or going downhill from what I can tell but I need to look into how to test it and what to look for on the lock up. If you're right, and probably are, it might be locking up too early. Was my first crack at it.

If I ever get to 33's or higher I'm going to put in an adjustable valve and completely redo the brake lines. The one I pulled out (that gets blocked off) was pretty ate up. Ended up getting a Motive power bleeder. One of the best investments I've made. Works for my 04 WJ and had a separate attachment for my old 83 grand wagoneer.

I thought I was going to have to when I did the disk brake conversion but I guess, and I'm no expert, when I did the 96 booster and MC swap theres enough pressure with the MJ block to get the rear brakes locked up. I haven't upgraded the front pads yet. When its time definitely going to black magic pads.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/51268-load-height-sensing-valve-delete-bypass/ Its been awhile since I wrote it (pre accident) but I remember most of it. Smacked my head pretty hard and lost some of my memory lol.

I kept the original block and got new lines at orielly's that were correct sizes on the side going to the MC. Cut off the other end, added the original fittings from the block side and bent them in a easier to access route to make getting to the shock easier. Then plug up the bottom front line. Run the one going from the nose straight to the soft line down to the axle. That line might need to have the fitting changed and double flared depending on your model.

Probably have better luck at the WJ forums in jeepforum or whatever the other one is.

You're nicer than me. I'd fill his inbox with pics and keep this forum at the top with them too until the mods told me to stop.

I did a write up in the tech section. Deleted mine and put in a 96 XJ MC/Booster. Have an 8.8 with disk brakes now and it will put you into the windshield on 31's if you hit it too hard. If you do end up swapping your booster I'd throw in some new YJ front soft lines and chevy rear soft line. Gives you a couple extra inches if you decide to lift higher.

https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Products-TP34000601-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B000JFHNTM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497740209&sr=8-2&keywords=Oil+UV+dye

Has anyone gave you feedback on the Fey rear bumpers and how they work with your hitch? My rear bumper is pretty twisted

That's what I was thinking. Running a hose with some pressure to it and putting the front on blocks or something to raise it up. The back ends are open and should drain

Any suggestions for getting a sandbox full of river sand out of the frame? Pulled the gas tank the other day and there's an inch of sand in the frame and its wet. Don't want it to lead to frame rot and was hoping you guys have some suggestions? I'm pulling the bed shortly but its sealed across the top.

Damn makes me wish I would've held out and gotten the 2 gauge. Havent installed them yet but they're impressive. Now that my A/C is working I need to get around to installing those with my 136a alternator

Good way to check for leaks is get UV dye. I recently replaced my gas tank and was having issues with it starting. Finally after chasing down leaks and replacing the o ring a few times I pulled the new tank again. The o rings they had given me, LO01 part number, was way to big. Got another one that fit with the same part number. Decided to throw some dye I'd been using to track down an oil leak and found a couple other spots I was losing fuel at. Replaced some rubber lines and new hose clamps now she starts right up. Still have a slight crack in the fuel pump where the hard lines come out but not enough to be worried about. Stuff I used was safe for oil and gas but not for coolant. Guess there's a separate type of dye. Not sure if it'll solve your problem but it might be worth looking into.

Exactly. I'm trying to get everything working properly so they'll stop pulling me over. Luckily its a small military town and I train with most the local PD. Rather not keep taking my chances. Honestly I just need one side of the bulb harness since the other one is still there. Downside is I need the little cap that goes over the bump and the clip that keeps it set. Or I'll just super glue the damn cap on hahaha

Finding a mid 90's Dakota around here is like finding a Comanche in the junkyard with perfect tail lights and bucket seat brackets lol

Yeah the only thing I'd miss is the arm support but my pup would be able to spread out. Plus I'm short enough to roll the window down and hang my feet out to sleep hahaha Holy crap! Maybe I'll give it a shot myself to repad it. The material is in good shape still. There used to be someone on the forums that made custom seat covers but don't think they're around anymore

So was bored at work and had seen someone selling a refurbished bench seat that got me thinking. I pulled mine out, still in good shape, and put in some WJ buckets but now I'm having second thoughts. Has anyone had their bench recovered and padded? My biggest issue with the bench sea is when I sat down my little 5'6 butt sank to the point where I was looking through the top of the steering wheel. Over exaggerating a bit but still. The springs and brackets are in tact. I ran some 550 cord to replace the release wire which worked great but the padding is shot. Not sure if a typical reupholster shop will be able to throw some padding in or if its something I need to try and set up myself before having it recovered. Thanks.