mjeff87

Check out Middle Peninsula Jeep Association (www.mpjai.com) It's a great Jeep club very local to you. Lots of skilled guys there into metal. Jeff

Small but essential, you will also need the flywheel bolts, either new or from the donor. Flexplate bolts (from the auto trans) will be too short to use with the flywheel. And you jumper the "B" and "C" pins on the NSS harness to get it to fire. I've got a pic of it somewhere, I'll post if I can find it. Jeff

Very interesting. Thanks for the followup. Maybe I should try swapping my old 2.5 pump/assembly back into mine and see how it works. At least my fuel gauge would read correctly :) Jeff

I'm running a stock 136 amp alternator out of a ZJ in mine.......$12 out of the junkyard. Along with 5-90's cable upgrade, like Don. Jeff

LOL....that pic was taken in the middle of the 2.5-to-4.0 engine swap project.

firewall, beside and a little below the HVAC blower motor: Image Not Found

rats/mice do not like steel wool, use it to plug anything you're concerned about (tailpipe, HVAC vents, etc...)

and not to pick nits, but from that pic of the "new" axle, it doesn't look like your guy used new U-bolts on the leafpacks. I would strongly suggest you either ask him to replace with new, or do it yourself and eat the small cost involved. Reusing the old ones is bad ju ju.... Jeff

I would most definately call them or ask to see a picture of what they are offering before ordering that. Odds are that they are XJ sending units, not actual MJ ones. Jeff

Yes, a Renix fuel pump assembly will work on an HO engine and gauge cluster, and visa-versa. I have been running an HO pump assembly in my Renix for about three years now with no problems, other than the fuel gauge reading backwards and about 1/4" tank off. I just have to remember that when the needle is reading "full", I'm just about out of gas. Jeff

I swapped a 4.0 into my 2.5 MJ (that's where that pic came from, it was during the swap). I was going to try to leave the 2.5 pump in it and see how it did, but I didn't want to chance it, so I swapped them. I think the 2.5 pump could supply the fuel volume needed, but not the pressure. Curious to see what you find out, please post up the results. Jeff edit: to post pics, you have to upload them to a hosting site (photobucket, flickr, etc) and then link them in your post. To link, paste the website address of the pic once hosted inside image brackets (). If using photobucket, click the "image links" link and then copy/paste the link into your post.

here is a pic of the two different pumps.....2.5 on bottom, 4.0 on top. I don't see how the 2.5 pump could supply enough PSI for the injectors to fire correctly in a 4.0. You should be able to swap a 4.0 pump into the pump assembly though, the top bracket is slotted so that it can be adjusted. Image Not Found

Metering block/splitter on the axle is different, but you can use the stock one if you want. The later model mopar block incorporates the axle vent into the block and has a larger bore, the stock axle has a separate breather. You can rig the later block to work, but I tapped out the hole in the axle tube to work with it.

Reporting this, but holy sheet is that a trippy read. Another 12 pack and that might have made some sense to me LOLZ

I just did a switch on my AX5 in my TJ @172K. Was running Mobil 1 synthetic since 80K and swapped in Redline MT90. Shifts like butter now. Ordered it thru a local speed shop, next-day delivery at $12.99 a quart. Jeff

Don't have a diagram but I can feel your pain LOL. A good trick I use is to sketch the part out on a piece of cardboard and then punch the fasteners into it as I'm taking them out. Good for timing covers, oil pans, etc. that have a bunch of different sized fasteners. Jeff

on an AX5/15, there's two ways to remove the shifter. Option #1 is to remove the 4 bolts that hold the shifter housing to the tranny and lift it all out. Option #2 (my preference) is to remove just the shifter from the housing.....it is held in with a cup shaped thingy with a spring underneath. Press down on the "cup" and rotate it 90 degrees anticlockwise to release it from the pins cast in the inside of the housing, then pull the shifter up. But, to replace the seal you are talking about, you'll have to seperate the shift lever itself (once removed from the trans). About 1/3 of the way up is a large collar with a locking detent tab inside it. Place the lower half of the shifter in a vise securely, insert a long thin piece of metal (old hacksaw blade works well for this) into the slot in the collar and pull the top half of the shifter off the bottom half. Then you can slide that old seal up the bottom half and replace it. Jeff

Shop should recenter the wheel as part of the alignment, but you can do it yourself. Loosen the collar on the drag link (two pinch bolts hold it tight) and rotate the collar the same direction that you want to rotate the steering wheel. Retighten the two bolts/nuts and you're done. Jeff edit: realize that small rotation in the adjustment collar translates into much larger changes in steering wheel position. You shouldn't need to adjust the collar any much more than 1/2 a turn to recenter the wheel...if you have to adjust more than that, something else is wrong....

http://comancheclub.com/topic/3094-how-to-timing-chain-replacement/?hl=timing+chain

Yes, it's an 87....all EGR is deleted.

One piece...have to pull the tranny/flywheel to replace.

I don't want to tip the apple cart here, and I certainly don't recommend you remove any smog equipment if you have to pass a visual inspection, but I ditched all the vacuum crap on mine (well, almost all of it). The only vac lines I'm running are for the MAP, vac canister (relocated), fuel pressure regulator, brake booster and CCV. It runs fine.... Jeff Image Not Found

MJ, is mounted in the stock jack location behind the driver seat....I figger I can be out of the seat and can access it in a couple seconds. If my junk is on. Fire, I'm gonna be out of it anyway. TJ, I carry one beside the driver seat. Tried mounting it on the roll cage behind the seat but it was too clumsy to get to with the high back buckets.

3/8 x 16 Been there, done that.....several times ;) Jeff

Don't underestimate the powers of a zip tie Don.....I've got both my O2 and CPS tied to the axle vent tubing to keep them away from the header. Ghetto? Yes. Does it work tho? Yes :)