battleborn

Not installing these springs they came out of it....eventually will lift it, just not now. Installed and compressed it is still an inch longer than right side. Thought it was strange one was longer. Knowing the history on this truck I had to have left the factory like this.

Hey all first off looked around in search and couldn't come up with much. So I'm doing some needed 30 year old front end work and just pulled the coils out. Left coil is longer than the right by roughly an inch???? Normal? Designed that way to counter weight of driver and fuel tank. Hopefully pic will post alright. Thank in advance for any input. MJ coil springs-stock https://imgur.com/gallery/PiuW3

If they did upload this is what I did with my 101. Used two 12 pin Deutsche connectors,terminal plugs for unused terminals and Deutsche mounts.

http://i.imgur.com/k8H9tdt.jpg C101 https://imgur.com/a/JHZul Hope these show up....havent figured out pic posting stuff yet

I get that way from time to time. Mostly hide out up here in north country

Glad to know there is someone else from Nevada here, was beginning to think I was alone out here!

I agree removing thermostat will prove nothing unless your able to see a specific failure. If you know someone that has a non-contact tempature gun you can take a tempature at the thermostat housing when your condition has been duplicated, this way you would know if your cooling system is overheating. I would start with the expansion tank first, mine had the exact same issue as yours is having know. Installed in-line filler neck into upper radiator hose converting it into an open cooling system. Summit Racing carries this part P/N# HRE-3423. Then the expansion tank would serve as an overflow tank at this point. The expansion tank is a poor design and I have had nothing but trouble with it since I have owned this truck. I would also give strong consideration to installing gauges into your vehicle if warning lights are all that the vehicle is equipped with. Autometer makes A-pillar gauge mount P/N# 15210 that will except 2 1/6" gauges. Never rely on warning lights to illuminate, possibly by then it will be to late. Gauges would allow you to see pending issues and allow correction before a catastrophic failure. Inline, rather they be diesel or gas engines are absolutely the wrong type of engine to overheat due to the way coolant circulates and length of the cylinder heads.

A service truck that I had couple of years ago had 2.5 inch marker lights that used in conjunction with the OEM lights as flashers while on mine sites. They are plenty bright enough for daytime use. The service truck that I have now has 3/4" Optronics LED markers which are extremely bright for their size and the space they take up is minimal.

It was all downhill once they stopped producing the 4.0L and then to throw salt into the wound made all Jeep lines into yuppie assault vehicles with absolutely no character.

Update on this old topic. Just barely finished the engine work which ended up being quite extensive. The 2.5L fuel pump will work on 4.0L MPI engine and the pump fit into module as designed. Rail pressure is within spec. and I have not noticed any flow issues with pump at all. There is no hesitation under hard acceleration at high rpm issues at all. The fuel pump was not the only issue it had. Apparently resistor was aslo failing creating excessive current draw to fuel pump also.

I memory serves me right coolant switch is ground side switching and not B+ switching

There are 2 relays for that circuit. One that is sensed from A/C circuit and one that is sensed from the coolant switch. There is a diode in circuit from coolant switch relay that blocks current to A/C relay to prevent back feed into relay that is located under C101 connector. It will fail circuit protection if diode is bad. You can still have A/C request to fan and not have coolant switch request to fan. I would agree to check relay befor anything else if you have verified that coolant switch and fan are both in working condition. Problem sounds local to coolant switch circuit.

I would be using the Bosch pump for sure if would fit into module. When I pulled the module out I noticed that the B+ terminal on pump was contacting upper bolt on support from twisting on module. I made sure when I put it together some years ago now that it was seucre to module, however still gave it the raised eyebrow when done. Even ordered and tried the Walbro pump and it didn't fit either. The only reason I am doing all of this now is to have the correct pump for module. I am really curious now about how this smaller fuel pump will perform. I searched high and low for even a used 4.0L module just to use different pump. I will definetly post results on this. I love this truck and they will bury me with it when I go, but there are somedays that it makes me pull my hair out. Thank You for the information on posting pics when I can get a chance to figure all of that out here I will post the pictures of the module and pump fit. I have been going through the grounds on this thing and WOW... They certainly didn't put much time or effert into that. Started with the ground due to issues with TPS, IAC, and rather developed engine miss, random no starts all at the same time. Found the post on here by criuser54 after I had pulled C101 connector and block ground and decided to start with ground something common to all systems before looking at ECM. Surfaces not cleaned as in paint and under grounded IMO. The C101 connection I am planning on repinning with Deutz HD connectors and just eliminate the 101. Between the low qualty pins and whatever that black sludge is supposed to be it is amazing that this has gone 25 years with out any issue.

I took some pictures of module, however I am not sure how to get them posted on here. This is definetly a 2.5L module though. I agree with you, I don't see how it would have enough flow to be able stay with demand while under load. At this point curiosity is driving me to install and see how the engine performs. If it doesn't work guess I have new transfer pump for future pump jobs. Planning on installing on Saturday and will post findings. If there is one out here there has to be more that have a 2.5L module. If anyone could line me out on how to post pictures here would awesome.

Picked up 2.5L fuel pump this afternoon. It definetly is a 2.5L module that has been installed into 4.0 MPI. Complete perfect fit. Still can't get my head around idea of 14lb.hr flow rate. That would be enough to prime rail and allow curb idle, just can't see enough volume when demand is there and engine is under load. If anybody has any information on this please I would greatly appreciate ant input befor this pump goes in tank and can't be returned. I am heavy equipment mechanic by trade, work on diesel engines ranging from 52 liters to 74 liters hope that I am not reading to much diesel basics into a gas engine.