HOrnbrod

I like my load sensing valve and have retained it since it's still doing it's job, but in your case (an 86 MJ in MA), I'd recommend plumbing it out of the system since you're replacing all the brake lines. It's on the edge of reliability, if not past............

Yep. But there are some subtle differences between the D35 and D44 load sensing valve bracketology, except for the valve body itself, and if you bypass it I'd very much like to have it all since I'm swapping in a D44 pretty soon. But it'll need to happen in this decade Wahoo. :cheers:

Me too, and :agree:

No offense akamcbird, But I like it where it's warmer mate. :D One of the last assignments I had in the late 90's was setting up the comms in Fort Greely when the Army was standing the base up. It involved long stays in beautiful downtown Delta Junction :ack: , with lots of trips up to Fort Wainwright :ack: :ack: . Super fine in the summer, but the winters got old fast, especially getting around. Nice to visit, but.......... :cheers:

Hmmm. Before I swapped the rear disk brakes in, my 91 LWB ebrake cables entered from the front. They still do. Must have been a backing plate design change between 86 and 91. :hmm:

That will be a great rig and keep the same wheelbase - I likee. I might go to rear 3/4 or 1/2 doors though strictly for aesthetics. Sure would like to see it photochopped for both designs............

Hey Wahoo - if you decide to bypass the load sensing valve - I got first dibs on it. Never hurts to have a spare. :cheers:

:agree: As far as the "special procedure" in the FSM, I don't use it and have never had a problem. After a good long gravity bleed, I always bleed from the farthest point away from the master and working inward, i.e. RR, LR, RF, LF. Never have done anything special for the load sensing valve. I also think your master cylinder might be leaking internally.

The Renix flywheel has notches all around it, not just the three wide ones 120° apart and the following three or four found on the 91 and up H.O. flywheels and flexplates. The Renix CPS is an induction coil, not a switch. It also serves as an rpm signal, hence the notches all around the flywheel. It creates a square wave pulse that the computer uses to time the ignition pulses to the coil. The H.O. CPS is a Hall Effect (magnetic) switch that creates a similar square wave signal, but in a different way; magnetic pulses rising and falling based on the flywheel notch spacing to create a pseudo-square wave. The wrong flywheel could ( but not likely) mess up the CPS in either case. And you'll have some kind of CPS output signal w. the mismatched components, but of course not the correct square wave for the computer to read. Do your CPS resistance and voltage checks and see what happens, but these tests are not always conclusive. I hope your computer isn't damaged.

Ain't it fun? :D I too just did the windows and didn't bother with the locks. Figured if I was too lazy to reach across and lock the door, I'd better give it up. But it's the same circuit and you are on the right track; + and - 12V to the window motor, + and - 12V to the lock solenoids. The factory schematic is hard to follow; for me it's easier to build it on the bench and smoke test everything first. If the drivers side is fine and the problem is the lock on the passenger's side, you need an additional parallel cross-body feed wire from the trigger wire of your lock relay coil to the passenger side lock solenoid.

Anything that plugs into a cig lighter socket and draws over 10A is junk. What's the 12V feed wire to the lighter receptacle, 18AWG I think? Wire fire city if the fuse don't blow............... :nuts: And that's not directed toward you James. :cheers: It's to the junk manufacturers.

Eagle means it's normal on his junk. :D Seriously, check the bushings on your upper and lower control arms.

You do not adjust the sleeve on the tierod to center the steering wheel, that's for toe. You adjust the sleeve on the draglink.

I see three 12V heaters on your link. The smallest (355W@25A) you could probably get by with using your standard 70A or 90A alternator and be okay. But 1212 BTU isn't a whole lot of heat. The other two that would be better for where you live and I think would require an upgraded alternator (130A at least) and heavier battery mains cables to be safe w/o seriously overloading your electrical system.

Part number J400 7109, slightly less than $5/ea at the dealer. Good guess Oizarod115. :D

Where did you get the mountain goat CW?

Oh. In that case it's Mr. Bubba, Sir. :D I shouldn't talk though. My parents named be after my maternal grandfather, Claus Edvin Ericsson. They almost picked Claus. :ack:

Prolly still Bubbas brother though..........

Yeah, thought about it - then promptly forgot about it. :D

Where's the airdam SW2?

"Harwood" - sounds like a good ol' Bama boy. Bubba's brother. :rotfl2:

Thought so - dayem....... Thanks Wade.

I'm picking up a Dana 44 MJ diff Monday, and I'm pretty sure it has 3.07 gears. I will regear to 4.10 gears; will I need a new carrier like I would with the D35? What's the cutoff for the D44? Gracias. :cheers:

Your friend needs a flexplate that crosses with Mopar p/n 52117761.

I had the same driveline vibration at 35-45 MPH that drove me crazy for about four months. Pinion angle was perfect, new tires new u-joints, even a new driveshaft. The problem turned out to be in the differential after I regeared. I screwed up setting the pinion preload wrong by not using a new crush sleeve. :fs1: I then had a shop that knew what they were doing re-install the gears and no more vibes.