HOrnbrod

Your question has nothing to do with the topic on this thread. Please do not butt in to existing threads; start your own post. You WILL get more answers and advice by doing it this way. :cheers:

There is an ongoing thread on the Yahoo Groups Stroker forum regarding the Melling Hi-flow oil pump. Interesting reading. In the OP's case I don't think it's necessary. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/strokers/

:agree: Guessing only too, but no mention of mileage and/or what the problem is. Might be better off and mucho cheaper scouring the yards and swapping in a low mileage engine.

Why do you need a Melling high-flow oil pump? What's the major environment for your MJ? A lot of low speed rock crawling?

I think it might be mo-betta to go with some WJ LCA's instead of rebuilding your stock LCA's? Uses the same shims. Especially w. the tires you are running. :cheers:

That comparision is no comparision. :D But thanks for posting it MancheKid86. :cheers: I love this thing because it's so different. Imagine going down the Autobaun or any Interstate at a respectable 85 MPH or so, and have this thing cruise by you with that height and those tires - they have to SCREAM.

Hey CW, I think the article you're referring to is HERE. Agree w. the warnings on a 5.0L stroker; .060 is as far as I'd go. I'm at .030 so can have it bored one more time if necessary. No one can recommend yea or nay on a stroker unless they have one (that runs right of course). It doesn't even sound like a non-aspirated engine; when it idles you freekin' know it's a stroker. And the bolt-on intake/exhaust mods (99+ intake, headers, bored throttle body, dual exhaust, etc.) and performance chips have a lot more positive performance effect on a stroker than a stock engine. So my advice is don't waste money on bolt-ons for a stocker; stroke it first, get the A/F mixture right, then do your performance mods. Everything I've done I always have it dyno checked after (for $75 it's worth it) and it's always been positive gains. To the OP, if you want good, knowledgable, proven info on stroker engines, go to the Strokers forum http://www.jeepstrokers.com/.

LCA CLEVIS, p/n 5200 0532 LCA CLEVIS NUT, p/n 1150 2811 SHIM, .95mm, p/n 5200 0234 SHIM, 4.00mm, p/n 5200 3976

In 1992 or so the switch was abolished and hardwired permanently in the POWER configuration.

Here's a start: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/

Hey Wade. Ignoring the previous post from this member, I've attached a post of the tow hook air dam notch cutout. I used the HiCountry brackets, and inserted the hooks thru the notch to attach to the brackets. Have done some mods since and cleaned it up a bit, but it basically is the same. The D-rings brackets will also fit thru the slot. Image Not Found

Notch it out. Keep the air flow dynamics (such as they were) as designed.

Originally a 1998 ZJ 5.9 V8. I'm trying to find the site I got these pics from originally (tink it was from Gojeep), but the builder stated this thing could cruise the Autobahn at 100+ MPH.

I just had to post these pics. It's a well done German version of a ZJ/MJ. :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

:rotfl2: Yeah, you see a lot of them in Walmart on a Sunday afternoon. :ack:

Good point Wade. :D The way mine is geared I figure I'd have to turn at least 10,000 RPM in O/D to reach 120MPH. Looks cool though. The police XJs were usually geared pretty tall though for pursuit. Why the Euro XJs got these speedos though is anyone's guess. :dunno:

120MPH. Image Not Found BTW, the Euro XJs all got a similar speedo. This is the one I'm looking for:

It's in here somewhere: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18813

Just replace the elastic cord when you have the seat bottoms out. You can get it at an upholstery shop. You can also swap the seat bottoms (same part number) and the seat covers will interchange too.

Yes, but the strap that holds the seatbelt up on the inside of the seat will be on the outside, thus useless.

Some of the older Renix cannisters had two ports w. a built-in check valve; my 91 had the football cannister w. one port and w/o a check valve. Simple answer - replace/relocate w. a similar reservoir to what you have. But unless you have devices besides the normal HVAC controls, like cruise or other devices that need more vacuum, any single port tank will work just fine as long as there is a check valve either inline or built-in the tank.

Here's how I did mine: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17120&p=173686&hilit=vacuum#p173686

Ah yes - that tug is NICE! :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

Agree Paul. But it stated $8500 OBO. I suspect he'll settle for mucho less. I lived in Gloucester for many years and wish I were close enough now to eyeball it. This is one MJ that will only increase in value, especially in the US. It beats playing the stock market nowadays. :cheers:

I don't either Taz. But it looks like you have a great place to keep adding more Jeeps to your fleet mate. :cheers: