HOrnbrod

I may be wrong, but I think the 4-stroke Rotax engine MZ bikes were the first to do this since the Rotax engine was so tall, like starting in 1992. This is one of the oldest motorcycle manufacturers (est. 1907) that has also fallen on hard times. They are still building 2-strokes in Malaysia, but that's about it. MZ made some cutting edge bikes back in the day............

Yep. When I installed the 97+ XJ washer bottle mod, I extended the connector and plugged it into the new XJ tank inside the fender well; works great. Really a "must have" indicator since you can't see the washer tank anymore. :eek:

I know what you be talkin' about. We had a whole lechon for Thanksgiving. :thumbsup:

Just one of the many paybacks you Cali guys have to suck up and shell out for the privilege of living in "Paradise" Joe. :D Although I can see the need for the DRB2 since you have an HO if you got it cheaply. There are times I'd like to have one too. I pulled the MAINT REQ lamp many moons ago...............

Correct, you can not adjust the timing w. the stock distributor. But you can check it with a timing light off #1 cylinder. I ASSume there are marks on the harmonic balancer and the timing cover like the 4.0 has that should align with the timing light w. the engine at about 2K RPM. You can see if the timing advances as you increase the revs from idle and it should remain steady, not jumping around. If it jumps around it usually indicates a worn timing chain and/or a sloppy distributor shaft.

Thanks for the comments Gary. I'm sorry to say that the previous owner passed away about six months after I got the truck, and his wife shortly after. I did keep in touch with them though and sent a few pics of what I had done so far, and they were pleased. I put in the crate stroker engine in about four years ago, and cleaned up the engine compartment first. It doesn't leak (except a little at the RMS when I use synthetic oil) or go off road, so it's pretty easy to keep clean. The black bumper is long gone, and is riding on the back of a friend's MJ down in FL. :D

Rob is modest, he did a lot of work besides cut and paste for this first effort to light off the MJOTM effort - entirely his idea and one I think can only benefit our forum down the road. :cheers: Thanks for all the kind comments, and of course all constructive comments yea or nay are welcome in this thread to improve the MJOTM selection process. Super job Rob-Man. :clapping:

RockAuto among others sells the aftermarket ones, and they work surprisingly well. They don't rot out or break apart with age as the stock ones do.

Exacerly. I just used the existing stock harness wire to transport the ground trigger signal from the dash switch to the forward bulkhead connector - no amperage there. Then added my own properly sized relay and wiring harness out to the fog lights.

Okay - I'm going to shut up about Renix stuff. Wrong again - my apologies to all. :doh: I still think there's a good chance the computer could be bad though if the grounds check out okay. :brows:

Obviously you no nothing about OBDI. I'm not going to even comment - figure it out for yourself. :roll:

:agree: Should have stayed in 'Bama mate. :cheers:

For those of you who have never seen a Hudson pickup. This one's a beautiful 47 with a turbocharged biodiesel-fed 7.3-liter Ford Power Stroke V-8 under the hood :eek: :eek: Never had a Hudson, but did have a 55 1/2T Studebaker pickup for awhile.

Maybe if you talked nicely to Buffalo Bob (the esteemed Wildman of the North), he might "lend" you one for testing purposes. :D

Unfortunately you can not check fault codes w. the key trick until the 91 OBDI models arrived. Strangely enough you can with the 1984 to 1986 V6 models though. If you know someone w. a DRB-II scanner (dealer), that is the only way I know of to do it. The CHECK ENGINE light is in your cluster on the left indicator panel side. If should illuminate when you turn the key on before starting so you can check the bulb. See if you can "borrow" a computer from a similar MJ to stick in it temporarily to see if it cures the problem. Seems like you have done about everything else.

:agree: Yeah Eagle, I meant the switch connector is already wired in. You put in your own switch. The switch output wire used to trigger the relay terminates at the front 10-pin bulkhead connector up nrear the air filter.

And OEM, not aftermarket.

My situation was different. I didn't have the factory harness, so I had to improvise. The fog light switch 3-pin connector was up under the dash with the output 12V trigger output going out on 18 AWG wire to the dead end forward bulkhead connector. So I supplied my own 12V input to the NO switch connector, grounded the indicator connector, and used the output of the switch to the harness that was already there. Picked up this trigger at pin 10 of the bulkhead connector and used that to trigger the coil side of a 40A relay I added. For the load contacts of the relay I ran 10AWG wire (overkill, but I had a bunch of it) fed w. a 30A fuse from the aux fuse panel I already had in place for my fans and H4 headlamps to the fog lamps. The original HI beam kill to the coil side circuit I discoed at the dash switch. Whew - been a long time ago and you guys woke up a bunch of dead brain cells. :cheers:

:thumbsup: Watch for smoke.............

Y'all making this much to complicated. :D Since I did not have factory fog/driving/and/or spot lights, I did not have the factory fog light harness after the left front bulkhead connector. But I did have the fog light switch already wired up in the dash (as all MJs do) to the bulkhead connector. I rewired the trigger signal to the existing fog light switch using inputs (12V and ground) from the existing cigar lighter circuit directly below the fog light connector in the dash. Then I used the existing fog light switch harness output for the relay trigger signal to the bulkhead connector pin 10 so I did not have to pull yet another wire thru the firewall. At bulkhead connector pin 10 I added my own relay and wiring out to the fogs. This bypasses the HI beam shutdown of the fogs and allows me to turn them on or off w/o a relay kill signal from the headlamp HI beam circuit. If you want the wiring diagram shoot me a PM and I'll send it. It's pretty easy and you don't have to mess with diodes. I'm using 100W fogs, and you can size out your relay and wire AWG gauge accordingly to handle whatever wattage lamps you want to run. :cheers:

OK, remember that j/y motor one of my sons bought at a j/y for his 99 WJ and had so much trouble with getting water in the oil? Long story short, when we took back his original motor as a core, we didnt give um his intake or injectors. With that said ..... I have another son that ownes a 96 ZJ and he also heard/read/whatever that a 99 intake on his 96 motor would give it a few more hp and therefore make it perform a little better. With tha apparently being true, is there anything else he'll need to do other than bolt that complete 99 intake on and go? http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6355

Samo - samo..............

In case you didn't know it, but I'm sure you did, your little buddy Darren can still receive PM's. Direct your messaging to him this way in the future. And try using spell check.

Yes they do. Ignore whomever posted the previous reply. Optimum injector size has to be dialed in by the A/F ratio tuning. Read up on the 99+ manifold here: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... Comanche91 I picked up about 12HP on the dyno, and a bit better mileage. Unbuilt motors average about a 9HP gain. Lots of good info on performance mods on that forum - you won't get much here. :D

Welcome to the mysterious Renix world. All the above suggestions could cause these symptoms since you have validated your fuel pressure at the rail, si?