HOrnbrod

I tried the OEM ZJ clutch replacement and saw no appreciable difference while searching for a more effective way to cool the stroker while stuck in traffic on hot Bama days. There was no improvement in my case. The best solution for me, after many other attempts, was junking the mechanical fan altogether and fitting another electric fan (a 1997+ 10-blade version) with a separate controller with a manual override option if necessary. Did this back in 08, and it's worked fine ever since. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8342&hilit=electric+fan

Easy way - power washer, kitty litter, etc. etc. and live with it. Best way - fix the fluid leaks on your rig. Then no more worries. Cake.

:agree: Use the 1/2" wide 3M double sided molding tape on the molding top and bottom, and of course, clean the body side surfaces well before mounting them. I put mine on about 7-8 years ago and they are still hanging true.

Nope. I agree. All I watch is sports, then more sports. Those are my reality shows. :cheers: But not the boring stuff like tennis, swimming, soccer, or figure skating. If no sports I like are on, then I'll watch Discovery (nature stuff), History (American Pickers I really like), or NATGEO. Intervention, Hoarders, and shows like that make me sick. I can only take 15 minutes of the whining.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32143&start=15 I would locate it at the same place Jon (jeepcoma) did. :cheers:

Fuel filter inlet is 3/8", outlet is 5/16".

It's behind the left side tail lamp.

Suggest you heed the possible solutions you have been given to correct your current "ride" problems and delay your longer shackles and mystery(?) coils plan until it's fixed. Then maybe you will not have to resort to "cursing the day i was born".

No Jim, she didn't get the waiver for her eyesight unfortunately. Made it in every other qual, but not eyesight reg. But she did get a full flight crew slot for an ABM (Air Battle Manager), usually riding an E-3 AWACS (airborne warning and control system), or similar newer high altitude aircraft. After training for nine months at Tyndall Air Force Base she will get full flight pay, just doesn't fly the plane. She's okay with that, because her big plan has always been for the USAF to pay for her law school later and to get into the USAF JAG Corps (Judge Advocate Officer) as a lawyer. Her degree from UA is Criminal Justice. :brows: Knowing her, she'll get it too. She was the only female commissioned this weekend, so Dad and Mom are proud. Damn, my head sure wasn't screwed on that tight what I was 21. :cheers:

Just got back from a trip to Tuscaloosa and back to pin on the daughter #2 Lieutenant's bars at her graduation and USAF commissioning. Daughter #1 got her's last year in the Army, so now the cycle is complete. :D Anyhow, I digress. It was about a 500mi round trip and 90% interstate. About a week before I left, I installed a NOS AIS on the throttle body, not because I needed to, but just to see how it would affect mileage and/or performance. The old one was clean and functioning well, so I thought. After the computer "learned" the new AIS output and compensated, it idled about 250 RPM lower and for the first time I could hear the lope in the idle caused by the stroker cam. My previous best highway mileage mileage was 21 MPG. For the entire trip, including lots of riding around in the city of Tuscaloosa, was a solid 25MPG over two tankfuls. And I was flying on the interstate at 75MPH+. Naturally I was happy with the improvement, and will continue to monitor the mileage closely that I'm back and driving mostly around town. Has to be legit since nothing else has changed.

I'm looking to do the same in my 91. In researching, the WJ knuckles will swap over to a 94+ 2WD XJ beam front axle since the 94 and up 2WD and 4WD use the same knuckle. But I'm not sure if it's really worth looking for a 94+ 2WD axle to add the slightly "bigger" front disk brakes than I already have. Still lookin' at it though....

Love the two tone paint scheme, been thinking along similar lines with the hood treatment from what I can see. Looks like a future MJOTM in progress. :cheers:

It's called an air dam. As here..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=120744664659&nma=true&rt=nc&si=k2Ettn9CkLY2gh4KRjHdLgpkmJs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Try beating a dead horse back to life then. You might have a better chance. New OEM rear MJ flares have been N/A for years. Aftermarket or junkyard are your basic options.

I much prefer Krylon in the gloss (flat, satin, high) of your choice. It adheres better to flexible plastics and vinyls.

It's probably the door jamb switch then as they do go bad often. Pull both and check to see if the make and break with your meter. Here's the schematic for an 88 MJ. If it's too small to read shoot me your email address and I can send you the complete 88 electrical manual.

I guess you know the light lens rock to three positions: OFF, ON w. DOOR, ON CONSTANT? Also turn your dimmer rheostat on the headlamp switch full ccw (or cw depending on what you have) to see if they come on.

Thanks. Yep, bought it in VA from the original owner.

The pic below shows the bed rail and the upper MJ rear shock bracket assembly, item #10. It's not just a bolt, so I doubt you can just screw it off to replace it. But I've never replaced one so I'm not 100% certain.

I find this hard to believe, but times have changed, so I guess it's possible nowadays. Years ago I had a job with Sun Oil (Sunoco) in VA. I was a company maintenance mechanic and serviced the retailers gas pumps, lifts, lighting, compressors, etc in my area, most of VA and NC. Every three months one of my required tasks was to calibrate the Sunoco blend pumps they had at the retail outlets. This included measurement of the product into a 5-gal test can, and checking the price of the dispensed product against the actual quantity. Tolerance was tight, and if the pump was out, I had to fix it. The Virginia Bureau of Weights and Measures had to do the same every three months and if they had a problem they would call me. It would be difficult for anyone to rig the blend valve and price computer as they were sealed units. All a station operator could do was change prices up or down externally on the dispensers. We never has a problem with customer gouging complaints. Today though most major oil companies use contractors for this maintenance, and with all the layoffs/cutbacks, who knows if all the states have people anymore checking gas quantity and price. But I'll be checking at 10 gal. from now on.

1991, Comanche, Base Hesco 4.6L Stroker, AW4, 2WD, Dana 44, LWB Build date: 10/90 Current Location: North Alabama D/D, Too many options to list :D

Not so Pete. The AMC-20 3.31, 3.54, and 4.11 were all available on the 86 MJs. At least according to my parts manual. :cheers:

:agree: Excellent buy. That AMC-20 behind the 2.5 5-spd should be a 4.10 axle. You could get your $$ back and more with that item alone. :cheers:

That's only on the OBD-IIs. I've had a few and there are lots of idiosyncrasies on the 95+ models that suck. The OBD-Is are the best for me as they're not so stupid sensor dependent like the Renix models are, have on-board diagnostics, and are easier to work on. Saying that, I'd still take an OBD-II over any Renix.

:rotf: T12s may be obsolete, but not junk. I used them because I got 10 6' double lamp fixtures for $5/ea, including the florescent tubes from a local salvage store. The fixtures were 220V, another reason I got them so cheap because nobody wanted 220V lamps. This was about twelve years ago, and maybe I've had to change 1 or 2 tubes in all that time. As for the garage 220V feed, I added an 80A 220 double-pole main breaker in the house main electrical box and ran a new 4-conductor feed cable out to the garage and installed a new electrical box there. This box has breakers for everything in the garage; 220V and 110V receptacles, lighting, garage doors, loft circuits, etc. For sure I'd recommend the garage have it's own dedicated electrical breaker box.