HOrnbrod

"beater cross" :roll: ... poor little fella... "almost" race ready :shake:

Yep, he has had a checkered history Dirty.

Decal is a little tilted down toward the left side?

Not an Alumacraft unfortunately. Their 16' runabout from the 60s with the bow deck can sell for $2K-$3K depending on condition. I sold an open 16' 1964 Alumacraft last year (much more common) for $1200. Found it in a field. :D Image Not Found Runabout

Who manufactured the boat Jim? If it's an old Alumacraft the serial number will be stamped on the transom. Alumacraft models from the 60s and 70s can be quite valuable.

My wiper arms were shot, so instead of replacing them with the old pin style I got a pair of the newer 1997 and up XJ arms. They use the newer design J-hook system to fasten the wiper blade. It's a much more solid connection that holds the blade firmly with no shuttering like in the old wobbly pin style. Since the windshields and wiper motors are the same throughout the XJ/MJ years everything fit perfectly. And because of the difference in shape between the old and new arms, an added bonus for me is that my cowl hood now opens about 3" higher w/o contact on the wiper arm tower as before. Good update when you replace the wiper arms.

If the tag is still there, you can see the p/n with a mirror, 56005685. That's the 90A alternator. From the factory, I've never seen anything other than a 90A alt on the 91-92 MJs.

Goof on the build sheet - mine said the same when I had the 90A alt. Since you have a 91, a good upgrade is the Nippon-Denso 136A ZJ/Dodge alternator. Was an easy bolt-in for me. http://www.vicic.com.tw/alternators/gVDN11361204.htm

If the exhaust ports line up, which I think they do not w/o some Dremel work, and the computer does not need an EGR input, then go for it. But to me it's akin to polishing a turd.

Motion Offroad has a poor track record - check it out. This is just another example. Not ragging them, it's fact. I'd never order anything from them.

I'm using the Hesco RV-O-B cam. Good grind for decent street manners with a slightly higher lift over stock. Has a little lope to it at idle so you know it's there. I get around 14 in the city and a solid 20 on the highway. But there's many many other factors besides the cam of course that affect mileage vs. performance.

A dog's request to God. Dear God: Let me give you a list of just some of the things I must remember to be a good dog. 1. I will not eat the cats' food before they eat it or after they throw it up. 2. I will not roll on dead seagulls, fish, crabs, etc. just because I like the way they smell. 3. The cat's litter box is not a cookie jar. 4. The sofa is not a ”face towel.” 5. The garbage collector is not stealing our stuff. 6. I will not play tug-of-war with Dad's underwear when he's on the toilet. 7. Sticking my nose into someone's crotch is an unacceptable way of saying "hello." 8. I don't need to suddenly stand straight up when I'm under the coffee table. 9. I must shake the rainwater out of my fur before entering the house—not after. 10. I will not come in from outside and immediately start dragging my butt. 11. I will not sit in the middle of the living room and lick my crotch. 12. The cat is not a squeaky toy so when I play with him and he makes that noise, it's usually not a good thing. P.S. Dear God: If I do all these things, when I get to Heaven may I have my testicles back?

If I crossed the correct bolts (2), they are Mopar p/n 6502623 and the specs are M8x1.25x23. These metric bolts should be available at any Fastenal or similar.

Here's how the blue chime module is wired. This is looking at the module from the bottom. Snip off / disconnect whichever pins you don't want. Like the seat belt, key, etc. Most important to me is the head lamp ON alarm. And that can only be found on the blue chime module. [tab] [4] [3] [2] [1] [8] [7] [6] [5] The tab is the lock tab that holds the buzzer in. Pin 5 is a blank. Pin 1 is power Pin 2 goes to the instrument cluster Pin 3 is ground Pin 4 is the seat belt input Pin 5 doesn't exist Pin 6 is the door switch input Pin 7 is the key in input Pin 8 is the headlight input If you cut off pins 4 and 7, you will still have the headlights warning but no key in or seat belt buzzer.

The head lamp Sentinel module is screwed to the dash brace under the cluster. You must have always had it in there then. If you unplug it, you'll lose the head lamp delay.

Good point. :cheers:

The head lamp sentinel delay feature is controlled by yet another module and has nothing to do with the chime module. Too many dayem modules.............. Image Not Found

The pump grounds to a stud behind the left tail lamp. Make sure the ground is clean and tight there then check for continuity between it and the fuel pump connector at the tank.

I'd bring it to a good drive shaft specialty shop and have them shorten it, then balance and repaint. Probably needs balancing anyhow, mine did. Had to do this recently with the new D44 and it cost about $95 w. new joints.

Gus the goose chaser, a rescued shelter dog. Always ready to kick some critter butt. Thinks he's a Shepard. :yes: Image Not Found

^^ Fiatslug's pic. The black chime module does not have the LIGHTS ON alarm; the blue one does and that is the only difference between the two. The Mopar part number for the BLUE case 8-pin Buzzer Warning Module (the black module does not have the LIGHTS ON alarm) is 56001076. $15.95 from Chrysler Parts Direct.

Love the color G. And the chrome. :D

:rotf: Bring it on. Bring your wallet. Cash only, no checks. I'll even leave the camper shell on. :yes:

Let us know what it was. I'm guessing you snapped an axle. You're still way better off with it than the crappy D35. I busted two axles on the former D35 just like that. Now with the D44 I drive the crap out of it with no worries. D35s are okay for the anemic 2.5 engines or even the 4.0s with stock tires and normal street driving, but with bigger tires and/or motors sooner or later something's gonna give.

Looks like you found a little piece of heaven Sam. :cheers: