HOrnbrod

Sounds like you answered your own question. But you're insecure and want encouragement from others who have no idea what your dream is. Only you can decide what's best for you. Go for it or don't. You don't need others to guide you mate. Sink or swim. :cheers:

Fried ignition switch? http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=24838&hilit=ecu

Those are Ravine wheels, not Canyons. :cheers: Great job on that cross member too. Canyon Wheel

Some nice to know info (at least I think it is, since it's a slow night :D ): From Wikipedia: The expression was introduced to English by American military personnel serving in the Philippines during the early years of the 20th century. It derives from the Tagalog word "bundok", meaning "mountain". "Bundok" as originally used by Filipinos is a colloquialism used to refer to rural mountainous areas. Spend a lot of time in the PI bundoks, and it's w/o a doubt the one of the most beautiful peaceful places in the world. It's like going back in time a hundred years or so. :cheers:

Great job and writeup Jake. :beerhead: Now you can sit back and wait for the PMs to start pouring in from people needing to get their broken fuel sending units fixed. :yes:

Yes, Johnny is correct, 0630 is the casting number for the 96-99 XJ up to 98 for the ZJ. You can also use a 7120 head found on the 91-95 models. They are identical except they have the water temp sensor boss on the left rear.

Joe, what was the problem getting out the bar pin out of the new N36L? The N40Ls also had bar pins and they were pretty easy to get out using my giant vice and sockets. Is it built differently?

Err, no. Just let the grease gun do it's equi-distribution thing.

Rotated the shaft 180*, greased up the u-joints, and it's back to normal, no vibes. From now on, the drive shaft will be permanently marked and going back on the same way it came out. Never thought this was that important, but it is. :cheers:

Pull the Air Idle Speed motor from the throttle body and clean it all up with sensor-safe carb cleaner. Also clean the connector where it plugs in and check the o-ring. The #6 fault is common as it is the weakest firing cylinder. For sure this will help out even the idle if the motor functional.

Will do mañana Jim. There's always a snag ............. :fs2:

This is nuts. I installed a metal gas tank skid today. To install the nutserts and mount the thing I had to unbolt the drive shaft for and swing it toward the right side for clearance. Didn't even pull it out of the tranny; just laid it gently on the garage floor. Installed the skid, bolted the shaft back up on the diff yoke and went to the store. Getting a pretty good vibration now between 35MPH-45MPH that definitely was NOT there before. I'm not sure if the drive shaft is orientated at the pinion exactly as before; didn't mark it, it may be 180* out. I've never worried about that before, but it's the only thing I can think of. The u-joint cups are fully seated in the pinion yoke and everything looks okay. Any ideas? I hate vibes............

Like I said, this type of behavior has been going on for decades in pro and college football. Most other contact sports too, even soccer. Bonuses/rewards/payoffs etc. were a given to any defensive player who managed to take opposing QBs or RBs out, the longer the better. I don't approve or disapprove, it's a fact of life. So try to get your head out of the sand.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18598&p=189875&hilit=paint+code#p189875

If you are referring to these, unfortunately they won't work on an MJ. Entirely different subframe and shackle mounting for our MJs. Looks like a high quality product. http://www.hdoffroadengineering.com/products/xj-shackle-relocation-kit

Yes, we knew they were obviously Chevy dually fenders. :D Trouble is everybody's thinking of doing something, but it never happens. Thanks for checking it out yellaheep.

No problemo. You could not have picked a better inspiration truck - it's been mine too for quite awhile. :D My plan is similar, but not quite. I'll do the same two-tone stripe over the hood and cowl minus the white border, but the stripe color will be red and the major body color will remain my original dark gray metallic. Will also be using the original 91-92 style Eliminator decals full length on the red stripe as they start on the front doors. Now if I could only find an experto to do the graphic for me as I can only see it in my head.

This must be your inspiration si? Lookin' good!

:D Yeah, Roger overreacted because it was the proper "politically correct" thing to do. Nothing you don't know already I'm sure, but that stuff has been happening for over 100 years. Imagine what guys like Dick Butkus, Jack Lambert, Lawrence Taylor, et al are thinking but can't talk about it. They tried to decapitate the QB or running back every time they hit someone. And all this crap will filter down to college, high school, and even peewee football. Damn shame New Orleans had to get over hammered for Goodall's overreacting. Feel for y'all down there mate. Well, at least he can't mess with baseball, basketball, boxing, or anything else. But they're doing a pretty good job of messing their respective sports up too. NFL = National Football (Soccer) League. Sigh.......

Here's some in stainless- http://www.fastener-warehouse.com/index.cfm/product/16884_1398/m8-125-x-20mm-button-head-cap-screw-a2-stainless-steel.cfm EDIT: These are Allen, not Torx heads. :doh:

Sorry, no. All I have is for the 97-99 XJ I6. 97-01 XJ w. I6, CLUTCH, Fan, Viscous Cooling 52079625

Good idea. :cheers: The black window/lock switch panel came from a 95-96 XJ, si? I like that better than the chrome/black older panels I used.

Here's the factory part numbers for the 94-96 model clutches. If memory serves me correctly I tried the 52027823. 94-96 ZJ w. V8, CLUTCH, Fan, Viscous Cooling 52028215, w/o Max. Cooling 52028214, w/Max Cooling 94-96 ZJ w. I6, CLUTCH, Fan, Viscous Cooling 52027824, w/o Max. Cooling 52027823, w/Max Cooling 94-96 XJ w. I6, CLUTCH, Fan, Viscous Cooling 52028327

:hijack: Just finished a deck out back. Jeff (or anyone else with experience), what product have you found that works the best on a treated wood deck and lasts the longest? I've tried Thompson's and a few others and wasn't satisfied with the results. I'd like to do it once then forget about it. Such a product?

Understand. Point was it was not "better" and there zero change in efficiency for me. Same-same.