HOrnbrod

Did you check/change the O2 sensor and do all the other checks we mentioned in your "stalling out" thread?

Yes, do verify that the gauge is reading the correct pressure first. Using a know good mechanical gauge is the best way. I had the same problem last week (reading high) and pulled the oil pressure sending unit. The no-pressure ohms reading was way out of specs from the output tip to the sender case ground. Installed a new sending unit and it's now reading normally. Hope your problem is a simple one too.

I see. Looks like it mounts with only four bolts, not eight. That will make less work for you. Please let us know how it works out. :cheers:

Sad story Jay. What the heck did you shoot the snake with? A little 22 short pistol or even a pellet gun would/should have worked fine. But in the coop, maybe not. Gus is always out tangling with snakes in the backyard; chicken/rat snakes, racers, and the more frequent water moccasins. He makes such a racket and when I come out if they're not moccasins I usually let him dispatch them himself. For the useless moccasins Mr. 9mm is used. :D

What's the original color? That's my vote. :thumbsup:

Yep, seems like stuff breaks in bunches. :( So which cross-member did you order from RockAuto Jon? I don't even see them on their site. :dunno:

Good point Mike; and I'm not sure. I just know they are interchangeable in the 2WDs. Someone should know this for sure. Maybe JeepCo?

As far as the crossmember, there are several companies that make a heavy duty model that will work for both the MJ and XJ, auto or 5-speed tranny, like THIS ONE. The AW4 and AX-15 crossmembers have different part numbers, but either will work on your AX-15. If you use a crossmember for the AW4, the tranny will set up higher about 1/2" which will be okay. Both the AW4 and AX-15 use the same tranny mount too. If you get a crossmember from the JY in your neck of the woods, use a late model one from an XJ as it will probably be less rusty. :yes:

Since you did not specify to whom you were addressing this moronic post, I'll reply just to be courteous. The table is based on trigonometry to show the proper lengths between the upper and lower CAs to preserve correct caster based on triangular angles. Something you obviously don't understand. The table is for reference only, and is not written in stone, as in anything where "JEEP'S are involved". In your future posts on this forum, try using less smileys, over-emphatic punctuation, and excessive drama. Also use correct spelling if you can, and proper punctuation and sentence structure if you want any reader who takes the time to read your posts seriously.

Maybe because he doesn't care? I don't blame him. :yes: Congrats on your new 92, she is a prize. I wouldn't do a thing to it except bring it back to it's original showroom condition, and it looks that won't be too difficult. Keep it completely original, it will be worth big $$ down the road. It's too pretty to screw up and you will kill it's future value.

Yes, there should be. There are raised tabs on the pinion yoke u-joint cup to hold them in. You have a D44, right? I'd pick up and install a new u-bolt pinion yoke and seal like this one on Ebay HERE. Since you have a D44 there's no need to worry about the pinion crush sleeve because the D44 uses shims. Just install the new yoke and re-torque to specs.

Thanks. She's already been interviewed, tested, and accepted as an F-15 back-seater (Weapon Systems Officer) and is planning to start at Pensacola NAS for joint training with the Navy in June/July. Unfortunately her eyesight is right at the lower limit, but she's been assured she will receive a waiver, it's been done before. We're all pulling for her; she's worked hard for it.

My mistake (if it don't float, they all look the same to me). :yes: I meant the F-15E Strike Eagle.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27121&p=274644&hilit=jack+label#p274644

Yes, an F-18 from NAS Oceana. Thank God there were no serious injuries to the crew or any civilians on the ground. That's the same aircraft (USAF version) my daughter is trying to get when she gets commissioned next month.

:agree: I Had my bed LineX-ed about five years ago and have hauled a crapload of stuff; rocks, dirt, timbers, everything. Still looks great. I also have the heavy regulation MJ rubber mat which probably better protects the bed floor than any coating.

Or you can use this table to tell you the closest speedo gear according to your setup: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm

You will like the E-code Autopals because just about anything is an upgrade over the OEM sealed beams. But if you see the difference between the Autopals and the E-code Hellas, you won't like the Autopals much anymore.

It's gonna be super nice Sam if you can ever find the time to work on something for yourself. :D I've wanted to do a diesel MJ for years using the Benz OM617 and AX-15. One of these days......... Great to see you get the April MJOTM Sam. Well deserved and one of the most well-rounded knowledgeable members on our forum. :cheers:

Veeeeery nice jack mate. :cheers: But I think you bought it because it's nearly the same color as your good looking MJ. :D

SW2! What it is? I know you miss the MJ but it's probably still leaking through the dash somewhere and the leak isn't driving you batty anymore like it used to. Look on the bright side. :cheers:

Very clever. :cheers: Can't wait till next year. Wow.

Did you try here: http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/jeep-cherokee/cowl-hood/

IIRC, pin 3 is the signal to the fuel gauge. If you apply 12VDC on the float arm variable output the fuel pump motor will act exactly like what you are describing. On the 91, when the arm is up, there is no resistance so the pump will run. Lower the arm, operating voltage is dropped through the potentiometer, so the pump stops. Haven't looked in the manual yet, it's late, but pretty sure this is what's happening.

I have a used Reflexxion hood on mine that I was lucky to find on Ebay for cheap. They still pop up occasionally. It's a great cooling mod for the stroker and that's why I like it so much. One of the drawbacks though is that the 2" cowl hits the right wiper arm post at the full open hood slot, and I have not yet figured out how to fix it w/o surgery on the hood. So I just remove the the wiper arm when I have to open er up all the way. Kind of a PITA but I can live with it. And it fits as well as the OEM hood. :D I've never heard of EFX hoods until I read your post. If they are using the Reflexxion mold and stamp press (the base of the hood on the Reflexxion hood is an OEM hood) it should be good, and it's a good price too. It's all-metal too so they say, so it's not an ill-fitting fiberglass knockoff POS. I'd say go for it. :cheers: