HOrnbrod

Dayem - what a wild night. Craziest NASCAR race I've ever seen. Hope they can finish this thing the full regulation 500 miles after the fire. Track still looks pretty good..........

Bad advice. Just my opinion.

32T long shaft, p/n 52068154 is what you need. Here's one source: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/32-tooth-long-speedometer-gear-black-52068154.html Lots of others too.

What size tires, what rear diff gear ration, what year is your rig, etc. etc. etc.

Ain't gonna happen. Postponed until tomorrow noon.

Can't spell "Commanche" though..........

After reading your thread on the strokers forum it was not debate, it was conflicting advice. Normal. My thought at this point in your research is to buy a built crate engine. But keep digging - you're getting there. Get smarter and weigh all the options.

Thanks for this thread Jay. Marcus has peaked out his stellar XJ with probably every viable upgrade there is to do. Good to see him move on to a really unique build with some sponsorship. IB watching this one. :cheers:

Yes, it's unique. Had a friend in Tampa check it out too. But it's not for moi.

AUTOMAN! I've been aware of this truck for quite some time and talked to the seller a few times. The "history" is bogus. It's not a regulation Street Comanche MJ and am not interested. :D

Unbolt the PDC assembly where the fan relay resides and look underneath at the relay socket. Check for burnt or partially shorted relay pin sockets.

Well, you probably are running fine and your mileage and periodic plug color checks will tell you so. But any engine, be it a stroker or stock N/A can always be made better and you'll never know for sure until you can monitor the A/F mixture under varying load conditions and/or equipment modifications. I look at it as much as I do the temp and oil pressure gauges. For instance the 99+ intake richened up the mixture a bit and I leaned it out by adjusting the fuel pressure until the Stoich indication was back where it should be. Helped the MPGs out too. It's also nice to see the loop change when starting up cold and warming up showing all the sensors involved are functioning as they should.

Unless you're dead set on going all out, I would only overbore to .030. This will allow you another punch out should a disaster occur. I consider an A/F meter mandatory to monitor the mixture and a FP regulator as the best means to adjust it. Without these you're just shooting in the dark. You might luck out and nail it correctly the first time, but the odds are it'll run like a pig or worse.

Thanks Pat, but this isn't quite true. :D I simply requested a stroker short block crate engine built to my specs from Hesco, and after much in-person bargaining since they are right down the road brought it home. About five years ago now - how time flies. Installed it and added mods and peripherals over time like I wanted, and managed to increase HP and torque by over 50% from the original dyno specs. It's still a strong engine after many many miles and always getting better. :D Pat is right. To the OP, the strokers site (http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/index.php) has not been down in recent history. Suggest you establish an account there, then read, read, read, so you can converse more knowledgeably, then run your proposed recipe to the gurus there. They are a good helpful bunch of guys and most importantly very stroker sharp, all learned by trial and error. And questions like "Oh, and what about a fuel pressure regualtor (sic) or a air/fuel ratio gauge?" ain't going to get er done mate.

You're probably right Motion. I remember on another forum (NAXJA I think) someone was asking about them and one of their vendors said they had D30 thick reverse cut 4.10 R&P available, but can not find it now.............

Not if you get the "thick" gears.

Perhaps you could conduct a search for your problem (whatever it is) on your first post?? Just one of many posts on this topic: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34458&hilit=cooling

Needing to bleed the head and pulling off hoses are issues to me. :cheers:

That's just one of the joys of having a closed cooling system; very sensitive to air pockets causing bleeding hassles. :D I'll take the open system any day. Just fill 'er up, start 'er up, stat opens, then all the air gets burped into the expansion tank. Cake......... Here's a good "how to" to make it a little more painless: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Cooling/BurpAirMod.htm

Mostly is standardized, and it's getting better. All the below states recognize Alabama pistol licenses / transport regs and vice-verse. Of course you will always have those states like CA, CT, NY, MA, WA, etc. that will never conform and always do their own thing. Alaska, Arizona, Arkansas, Colorado, Florida, Georgia, Idaho, Indiana, Kentucky, Louisiana,, Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, New Hampshire, North Carolina, North Dakota, Oklahoma, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Wyoming

Must be a specific Bama county thing for the OP. I got my pistol permit from my local county sheriff's office. Took about a week for the background check, cost $7.50. The permit authorizes you to carry it unloaded in your vehicle and transport it anywhere in the state or any other state that recognize the AL pistol permit reciprocal agreement (most all the southern states). While in transport ammo must be in a locked container not in the glove compartment or readily accessible - read trunk or pickup bed.

I can get one locally here no problem now that I know it will do what I want. Appreciate the offer though. :cheers:

Was just over on the Hesco forum and I noticed who answered your distributor question, Cheromaniac. That's Dino, Doctor Stroker hisself. Good guy. Probably knows more about strokers than anyone, except for Hesco's Lee Hurley. :cheers: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/

Thanks Pat for that. (Poetry 101 :D ) I have quite a bit of clearance now on the down pipe from the x-member I think. The below is a pic of the header I use; no means to easily adjust it. But I think it will clear okay. I think this is a worthwhile mod. :cheers:

Thanks. Will swapping the x-member affect the exhaust hanger bracket?