HOrnbrod

If it has a crush sleeve in the kit it's for a c-clip axle. The non c-clip uses shims to set the pinion. Everything else you can use.

No EGR on his HO, and only one O2 sensor. Before you pull the O2 though do the other stuff as mentioned. Also unplug the cable connector and check the pins and sockets (4) on the O2 sensor harness for corrosion. I only have one toothbrush, so I use it for everything.

Welcome. :thumbsup:

I pulled the tail shaft housing and brought it and a new bushing & seal to a local machine shop. They removed the old one then pressed in a new one for $10 while I waited. There are two possible sizes for 91, the change year; 35mm and 38mm. Be sure you get the right one (mic the yoke shaft), or just buy both as they're only about $2.50/ea. http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=aw4++seal&Search.x=16&Search.y=8

Smoke test time. :banana: :popcorn: Should be fine Jeff. I'll never forget the time when we commissioned a new back-UPS system at Diego Garcia COMSTA, and knocked out all satellite comms (the only comms there) for about an hour. Was not fun........

Yes, the way you can ID the diff between the AX-15 and AW4 (which I think you have) crossmembers is the center section. Looking at it from the top, the AX-15 dips down about 3/4" while the AW4 has no dip; it's straight across. Also the right side indent for the exhaust pipe is formed differently. I've just been through all of this trying to drop the tranny w. an AX-15 member, but it caused my exhaust pipe to rub due to the headers.

Yep. And they are both overpriced. I like the Duralast yellow tops. All my junk has them. Never had one crap out less than five years old.

Excellent Jim. :cheers:

The Broncos at present have no decent backup for Payton. No one even knows if Payton can still take a hit. If he gets taken out quickly once the regular season starts, the Broncs will be in deep deep kimche. Hope Elway can still play.............

:cheers: Me too if the truth be told.

Rob (quoting Eagle) was spot on. I'm happy to hear you feel the Pub is a drag, so now feel free to post your "current events" commentary and carry on your opinionated agenda in one of the many other forums you frequent. Perhaps these other forums won't be such a drag to you. Test the waters so to speak. :rotf: However, you do post mildly interesting info in the Tech section every now and then. Feel free and welcome to participate.

Disagree. Overkill. Too much of a good thing. :eek:

True. But they are still the New Yawk football Jets and the mindset in East Rutherford is the same. I think the Tebow show will be ugly in Jersey too. Rex will be playing poker with Sanchez and Tebow and probably piss both of them off. Drama maximus. Tebow would have been a better match in Jax.

Tebow's taking his song and dance show to the Big Apple. It ain't going to play with the Jets' fans. :ack:

PM sent.

I did the 95/96 booster because it's plug and play into my 91, except for bending the new M/C lines. Plus I already had done the rear disk swap, so I wasn't concerned about braking pressure. In a Renix you have to modify the booster arm using either booster (unless you use the 91+ brake switch). If I had a Renix, I'd probably do the WJ swap since I like the idea of the alloy booster can.

Yes, the brake switch changed in 1991. It's plunger is activated by the brake pedal arm and it's adjustable. Each switch has three sets of contacts; two NC (normally closed) sets of contacts for the auto tranny torque converter unlock and cruise signal, and one NO (normally open) set of contacts for the brake lights. When you depress the brake pedal, the NO contacts close to complete the brake light circuit and the NC contacts open to unlock the torque converter and deactivate cruise (if you have the AW4 and/or cruise control).

So true.

I would hire her I bet you would. She would make a good underling for you. :rotf:

Recent HS grad. Not atypical at all. Good candidate for a political aide position.

Hey Jon. I have a 2.5" dual exhaust installed from the muffler on back. :cheers:

Proper orientation ^

Follow the vacuum along the right side of the engine compartment forward where it goes through front bulkhead near the battery to the vacuum canister behind the bumper. They usually break in that area.

First question: Of course. Second: Check the bulb. :cheers:

PS133 is the switch for the MJ/XJ oil pressure idiot light. Bring it back. You need Autismzone p/n CP7577 (called a sender / variable resistor) for your oil pressure gauge. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/1Sunpro-1-8-in-NPT-oil-pressure-sender-with-1-4-in-NPT-adapter-for-electrical-oil-gauges/_/N-269r?itemIdentifier=87626_0_0_