Jeepyjeepy

Transmission heater 🤔. I'll hunt for extra wiring under the dash, but I didn't see squat when I pulled it to 4x4 swap 😭

1988 Jeep Comanche. Was 2wd before I converted. Short bed. Has Factory tow mirror option. Original axles were swapped by PO for 01 XJ axles. So stock axle option is 🤷‍♂️ Column shift. Silver paint, grey interior. Manual windows. Cloth bench seat.

I decided not to put it in and just keep it as a spare. while I was redoing all my connectors I did do a comparison check and the block is identical to my factory 88s fuse block (don't know if other years are different).

I'm not up to snuff on the difference between clusters from renix and hos but am curious if It would work the same

As an update.. Problem still persists. Got mad and bought a new fuse block with wiring harness from pain less off cl to replace mine..... When I got it home I noticed it looks identical to the factory Jeep one........ Once i get the new fuse pins in I'll wire it up and see if it bolts in factory spot. for anyone curious I looked in my painless catalogue and the part number for just the block (its prewired but that section can be unbolted off the block) is 30003. Part number 20112 appears to have a similar bulkhead connector as well :dunno:

This is what it looked like when I brought it home. The front end is blacked out now and I'm working my way towards the tailgate.

Well ive been slacking but I picked up a set of full power doors off a 95 sandblasted for $100.....so now I'm just trying to find a MJ or 2door xj driver side master switch panel for the locks and windows....which has been totally fruitless :wall:

We'll see. I'm going to go back to the correct size fuse and see what happens. as far as the masters nuts they put one bolt facing cabin (nut is present), and one facing the engine bay. Havent looked to see if that one belongs there

So I've just been dealing with the stupid thing for awhile now until last night. Lost hazards and brake lights and couldn't get them to come back. So this morning I was gonna tackle the fuse box only to find out that was more involved than I thought. So I reached my hand behind it to see if I could temp fix till this weekend when I could get to it. Found a nut sitting on the wires for the fuse took that outand everything :hmm: works :dunno: :hmm:

BA tranny fill plug is on the passenger side above the cross member. Requires a special tool or a ground down 3/8 extension

Lucky guess ill just hurculiner all the trim to match the floor lol and make/get a black dash mat

Thanks for the flair got it sanded and painted black and on. I got a couple things locally. As soon as i figure out photobucket i'll post some pics. Out of curiousity since i'm blacking the whole truck out does anyone know if they ever did a black interior? I can paint my trim pieces, but my dash is cracked pretty bad and don't know how to recolor a dash anyway

So the switch didnt help. Ima actually pull the tailights out and look/ clean them over and refresh the ground. On the clutch leakage note. Can you actually buy the replacement hardline from the resiovor to the slave cylinder?

As nice as the rear tires sitting even with the front will look thats a bad reason to do it. Rear wheels that are inset havr an advantage over non due to the rear wheels not following the same complete line as the front. My 89 ramcharger would go twice as far in a 4 ft mud put with near bald tires as my buddies who did just what u were saying. I also went threw snow better that way since my drive wheels werent completely hitting the packed surface my front tires made BUT: The Comanche front axle is the same width as the rear axle, so stock they DO follow the same complete line. They are inset because the body is wider in the back than it is in the front. So the wheel spacers make them sit out more, which according to your logic makes it better. Touche. Did not no that. New things learned every day! :thumbsup: