HOrnbrod

Check to see if you have 5VDC on the TPS connector center pin: THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) NOTE: Digital voltmeter must be used to check TPS. 1) Note location of TPS electrical connector. See Fig. 5. Turn ignition on. Using digital voltmeter, check output voltage at center terminal with throttle plate closed (idle position) and wide open (full throttle). 2) With throttle plate closed (idle position), output voltage should be greater than 200 millivolts. With throttle plate wide open (full throttle), output voltage should be less than 4.8 volts. 3) Ensure output voltage gradually increases as throttle plate is moved from closed to wide open throttle. If no voltage exists, check for defective wiring circuits or connections. Replace TPS if defective.

I read somewhere that if you used an MJ/XJ AX15 tranny crossmember on an MJ/XJ w. the AW4 transmission, you will get about a 3/4" tranny drop w/o any loss of ground clearance. I know that the rubber tranny mounts are the same. Anyone have a couple of the x-members lying around to compare the differences? I'd like to try it as I have slight driveline vibration at about 35-45 MPH (had it for years) and would like to try this to see if it helps kill it. And no, I don't want to shim down the existing crossmember. :D

Check your transmission coolant lines and make sure you didn't crush one when changing the radiator.

I had a bare bones 01 2WD Sport w. electric locks but no remote entry. Bought it new in Guam from AAFES (Army & Air Force Exchange Service so not an export model) w. slight typhoon salt water corrosion for $7K. Ran great and served me well around the island. They do exist.

Because of the fluid leak, missing cover bolt (It looks like) or because it's a Dana 35? Keep the fluid topped off and it should hold up. Better yet fix what ever is leaking and you won't have to worry about it. :agree: Dayem good looking unmolested D35 actually. Just pull the cover and fix the fluid leak w. a new diff cover gasket. Will go another 100K provided how you use it. :cheers:

Dayem, got to head up to my local Jeep graveyard and take some pics; it's been awhile. The owner is an lifelong MJ guy and he NEVER crushes one. But the XJs, YJs, ZJs, etc. mean only $$ to him and they are quickly gone. Last time I was there he had over 10 MJs in various conditions. But all the bodies were good.

Thanks for those links tcheat. That memory erase procedure is for the ODDII models (96-01). For my 91 just disconnecting the battery clears the CELs, etc. Also that's an excellent writeup for changing the injectors in there. :cheers:

Glad you got 'er done. :thumbsup:

If you are referring to my post "The thermostat housing is a poor place to locate a coolant sensor/switch for fan control" that's exactly what I meant. The HOs use a sensor (or thermistor sender) in the stat housing for the ECU signal and the OP was referring to a temp switch in the stat housing for fan control. So I meant both in this context. :D

FWIW, everything I've read regarding the Corvette fan switch in the thermostat housing is that everyone who tried it had problems with the fan coming on too late, like around 225*-230* or higher. The thermostat housing is a poor place to locate a coolant sensor/switch for fan control. The best monitoring point is the radiator return line.

Thanks cruiser54..yes that part would work (part number 83505113) but it's no longer available. The original 88 fan temp sensor is too large for the inline hose adapters I've seen (Jegs, Summit, etc) so I either need a used inline unit like the one you saw or find a smaller sized sending unit to fit the later model XJ thermo housing plug spot or the inline hose adapters that support 1/8" up to to 3/8NPT sizes. All leads/assist helpful..Thanks again.. http://www.alumrad.com/fans.htm

Like to help, but w/o a wiring diagram, I don't know how the Renix brake pedal switch triggers the T/C unlock. But it has to happen there. All the Renix guys I'm aware of who have done the 95+ dual diaphragm swap w. the AW4 have wired in the HO brake switch to add the separate T/C contacts. Maybe Wade can provide details how he adjusted his pedal switch.

Why don't you just test the T/C contacts on the Renix switch with an ohmmeter while depressing the pedal to see if they are making and breaking? I do not think the Renix brake pedal switch is adjustable - it's dependent on proper machined clearances of the booster arm. Poor design, but I'm definitely not a Renix expert nor do I ever want to be. The HO switch and is easy to swap in.

Mine is a 1991 Eliminator, 4wd, 4.0L, auto. Thanks. Add that to your signature. :cheers: I have never seen, or heard of, a procedure like this to erase the 1991 OBDI ECU memory and "learn" new settings so quickly. Do you mind revealing where this procedure came from? It doesn't make any sense for the 91. But I'd like to avoid the 100+ mile ECU "relearning" process in the future if this is valid.

What is the year/model of your MJ?

Ain't that the truth. My olde timing light and feeler gauges have been gathering dust for many years. However the timing light comes in handy with the MJ as they had the good sense to retain the timing marks on the 4.0. Of course you can't adjust it though...........

The non-HI ALT CPS is the same p/n for the 2.5 and 4.0 engines. However, the HI ALT CPS's have different part numbers. What this shows me is that the HI ALT 2.5 CPS will work on the 4.0, but the amount of advanced timing is different. But I think the timing difference will be negligible and it will work just fine.

:agree: The same applies to the Chryco MJs. My 91 build sheet came back showing a D44, 5-speed, and bucket seats. None of which applied, and I bought it from the original owner. Inaccurate maximus.

Lol. Suggest you look on Ebay or elsewhere and invest in a factory FSM set for your year model. It contains detailed pics and procedures for everything, and will pay for itself many times over in the first year. Best tool I have. :cheers:

Where's the gnats? Got to have a few of them in the clear coat to add some character. :yes:

Couple of ideas: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/dual-batteries-3959/ http://www.quadratec.com/products/product_search.php?pn=17004.71x&cv=1000,1100&cn=Dual+Battery+Tray+Kit+for+Jeep+Cherokee

Yep, load test the battery at any Autozone or similar first, then commence troubleshooting festivities. :cheers:

If your 97 motor has the stock injectors you will have the Mopar gray tops. These are the same ones I run in my stroker, at a bit higher pressure though. I would recommend staying with the 53030778 injectors as anything larger will just be wasting fuel. Model Year, .....Part #, .....Colour, .....Fuel Pressure, ..Static Flow, '87-'90, ........53003956, ...Black, ......39psi, ..........18.6lb/hr '91-'93, ........33007127, ...Brown, ......39psi, ..........21.0lb/hr '94-'95, ........53030343, ...Tan, ........39psi, ..........21.0lb/hr '96-'99, ........53030778, ...Grey, .......49psi, ..........23.2lb/hr '00-'01, ........04854181, ...Blue tip, ...49psi, ..........22.5lb/hr

I don't remember, did it long ago. But unless you are planning duals from the muffler on out, the part number won't do you much good.

Works just fine for me? :dunno: I put another link Jim - try this one. same video.