HOrnbrod

Yep, I was curious as to why they used that steering stabilizer rather than the stock one. They welded a special bracket for it on the axle tube and used u-bolts on the tie rod. Anyone have a clue why? :dunno:

Yeah, it sure is. I hate cleaning the interior. The wife used to do it for me, but not anymore. :(

Most any pre-airbag GM steering wheel will fit as they all use Saginaw steering columns like our MJs. I couldn't find a decent Jeep wheel so I put one on from a late 80s Buick Regal Sport and made the center piece. Still looks Jeep. :D

Echo thanks to Rob for posting these pics up. :cheers: I'm not going to nit-pick things I don't care for like some did :nuts:. Neohic said it best and sees the big picture. It's a time period creation, and for it's time period it's truly beautiful. And it was built by a team of MJ lovers who were probably the only folks at the time with vision enough to demonstrate how versatile an MJ could be. What I really like is the slotted (hopefully functional) front clip. It's a great way to gobble more air into the limited underhood real estate at speed for cooling.

Congrats Gramps. :cheers: :D

He has an HO. Virtually all ECU inputs are ignored by the ECU until the closed loop transition; the ECU uses a program stored in memory during open loop. Suggest you install an A/F meter to monitor the transition, and to verify the O2 sensor ECU input. Also check the codes.

Renault parts source? http://www.winnebagoparts.com/about-renault.php

I admire your dedication and work ethic on this diesel project Rob, really. :cheers: But as you know this Renault engine was always anemic even in top form, and never had a stellar reliability reputation. Hope you get it to where you want it, but can't help feeling it's like beating a dead horse. Wish you the best of luck.

Seems like.

You can order them online from many places like below, but in a pinch just use a 1/4" blade connector and trim it down to fit the female end. http://www.elecdirect.com/product/95db4e1f-6dfb-4a0e-8810-5370f7722079.aspx

:agree: Installed Jon's mains cable upgrade years ago at the same time I upgraded the stock 90A ND alternator to the Mopar 134A alt. Have since added many hi-amp draw upgrades with the appropriate individual circuit harness work, and the battery is still going strong for 5+ years now.

Thanks for posting the images. Have seen plenty of total eclipses in various locales but never an true annular. Conditions have to be perfect which seldom happens. :cheers:

:cheers:

Any of you guys out west see this today?

I doubt there were more than 5K miles on the old u-joints. But they were not Dana Spicer. I've ordered two new Spicer Series 5-153X 1310 joints and will be installing next week.

It applies a ground to an ECU pin to bump up the idle a couple of hundred RPM. It came as part of the Police Package XJs. Lots of writeups for it over on NAXJA.

Interesting. My Mopar 97 and up XJ parts manuals don't even show a 2-door XJ. :dunno:

Looks like the 96 model was the last US 2-door model according to my parts manuals. But the exports had two door models available through 2001. Maybe you can pick one up in Mexico? Si?

Yes, they are a bit tricky. I don't have any pics and am not about to pull a wheel to take them. :D They are shaped like an elongated "C" as you know. The open part of the "C" must face AWAY from the rotor, otherwise the pad will rattle around in the caliper. You have to install the clips at the same time you install the pads - three hands would help. The clips will go on 180 out too with the open part of the "C" facing TOWARD the rotor. If installed this way it will cause brake squeal. :fs1: Even the FSM does say to install the bottom clip with the open end facing away from the rotor, but says nothing about the top clip that must be installed the same way.

Try adjusting the Throttle Valve cable (commonly called the kickdown cable) at the throttle body.

No drama please. Just post 'em up. I think we all would like to see them.

It's not the mount unless you bought the wrong one. The transmission mount (#24) is the same for the AX15 and AW4 auto. But you need other AX15-specific parts to mount it to the cross member, like the manual tranny bracket (#25). They also use different cross member holes to mount.

I can't stand that guy. What diff gears you running back there Jim, 1.00s? :yes:

Would help to know if your 87 is a LWB or SWB truck, and what engine and fuel tank size you have.

Sure. In fact they junked fusible links later on (90 or 91) and started using MAXI fuses as replacements. I'd go with a 50A for the ignition circuit.