HOrnbrod

Then your world sucks mate. Glad I'm not in it.

:clapping: Good job Rob.

Works like a champ. Muchas gracias. :cheers:

Nor have I.

Don't know what year your rig is, but they changed compressors in 1991. My 91 cycles as you described.

Sometimes the pics are copy protected and this won't work. You can always do a that will take a snapshot of whatever's on the monitor screen and load it into the Windows Clipboard. Then you can paste it into your favorite graphics program to resize and/or edit.

I used axle shims (3* IIRC) to set the drive line angle after finishing the lift. Just make sure you use steel, not the cheaper aluminum ones as they will crumble eventually.

Go check out and search NAXJA. I remember a writeup on this.

OMSC sells new American vehicles to active duty military stationed OCONUS all over the world through military outlets like AAFES, Navy exchange, etc. I bought several in various places, including a couple of XJs. One in the Philippines, another in Guam. They are NOT exports, US specification vehicles. This allows their owners to ship them back to the US when they return w/o Customs problems.

OMSC stands for Overseas Military Car Sales. It's headquartered in Switzerland.

Yep, I think you are right. I put up pics with mine side-by-side, and the Sportruck is considerably lighter. If Minuit lets us know the paint code we'd know for sure. :D Look on the stamped steel plate on the drivers side firewall. The #5 - #8 digits (reading left to right) on the 2nd line of the plate is the primary paint code. It's usually two letters and a digit i.e. my paint code is PS2. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 X X X X P S 2

Good looking Sportruck. It must be a 91 model, as Orange Red/Dark Silver was one of two decal color combos for the 1991 model Sportruck trim, it's last year. The other color combo was Blue/Silver. And your base color, dark silver metallic, was only available in the 91-92 MJ models. :cheers:

I see your point about the independent sensors. I had to go round and round too with Spal as I used the thermostat housing temp sensor for the ECU as the Spal variable voltage input as they recommended when I first wired mine in. Turned out the Spal needs a certain voltage spread (I forget how much) between the LO and HI switch points, and the ECU temp sensor didn't have enough spread causing spastic LO/HI fan speed switching. Switched the Spal input to the dash gauge temp sensor on the head and it was fine. It is a great controller once you get it set up right. I was a little concerned at first with the 25A fan load limit on the Ver. 1 Spal controller so I load tested a 10-blade fan first before I used it. It pulled right at 20A on startup; closer than I liked. But it's been in there now since 2008 and is still working great. Good product. I did pick up a couple of new spares on Ebay awhile back (ver.1's) though just in case. Looks like they are N/A now..........

Curious as to why you needed to add another temp sender in the heater line to trigger the SPAL. I used the existing temp gauge sender for the SPAL and it works great on LO and HI speeds using the settings I programmed into the SPAL. I'm using the Version 1 SPAL PWM. I left the original electric fan alone as is, except to add a dash toggle for emergencies.

Yes.

:rotf: He's just a knucklehead. Probably born in 1997.

Can't blame this one on AMC, although AMC did some stupid engineering too at the end to cut costs. Saginaw, a sub of GM, built the pre-airbag Jeep steering columns.

Same for those. No need. Also you will need to p/u a quick-connector removal tool as below to remove the old lines. NAPA carries it.

You won't need the 3/8" quick connectors as the new lines already have them. :cheers:

Here are the Dorman/Help numbers for all the items: Pressure Hose 624301 Return Hose 624300 Metal tube 624334 Fittings at Tranny 800714 I would replace all of them at the same time. Rock Auto has them all. Quick Connector Fittings: 83502745, 5/16" 83504447, 3/8"

My bad - forgot what you had. :cheers: In that case opening up the exhaust to 2.5" will only help. My setup: Mike Leach header -> Stainless Cherry Bomb (no cat) -> single 2.5" inlet/dual 2.5" outlet Walker performance muffler -> 2.5" dual pipes exiting out the back. Done by my buddies at the local muffler shop, not mandrel bent. Swapping to 2.5" semi-dual pipes netted about 20 HP on the Hesco dyno over the original 2.25" single pipe setup.

The signal (ground) for the KEY IN alarm is a thin piece of spring metal that applies a ground signal on the ignition cylinder to the chime module when the key is inserted. Over the years, the spring clip looses it's tension and corrosion builds up at the contact point so it doesn't make good contact as it should. Last time I had the column apart I cleaned it up and bent the clip a little for better contact. It worked well for about a year, now it's hit and miss again. Very poor engineering on Saginaw's part....................

Agree. If your engine is stock, use stock parts and specs for sure. If you don't most times performance and/or mileage will suffer. :cheers: On the other hand, stock suck and blow parts, i.e. intake and exhaust system parts, literally do not suck and blow well on a modified engine like a stroker. Unless your engine is modified to some degree, don't waste $$ on stuff like larger or dual exhaust pipes, bigger injectors, bored throttle bodies, throttle body spacers, etc.

I've done it for dings in the winter, around freezing temps. Works well about 75% of the time. Must cause a more gradual metal molecule process change. :dunno: