HOrnbrod

Anyone read the description?

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bin/partsSQL/search.cgi?query=RHINO+GRILL http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=153007

Sure do.

:yes: :rotf: :yes:

Got an email address? I'll send you a copy. :cheers:

Here's a pic of one for a 97 ZJ from the Autozone web site. Doesn't look like it will fit correctly.

I used OME 2" coils, it went to 3", and is still at 3" higher four years later - over what I had before. They NEVER sag I guess. Getting to your topic, no lift for the diesel for all the reasons mentioned before. Kool factor and all that, the diesel even though it's running well now won't handle pushing the bigger meats around w/o sacrificing performance. You would have to regear back to the stock final drive ratio at least. I'd considering lowering it if it were mine, maybe and inch or two. Now that would be a unique MJ and easily restorable.

Never heard of this Jay. :hmm: Do they mount the same and are they the same length? Got a pic? Didn't install it, but had an aftermarket Addco MJ rear swaybar. Because of the shock absorber mount difference between the LWB and SWB, it wouldn't fit my LWB. Fits the SWB MJ just fine though. This is the only one I know of that is still available. http://www.andysautosport.com/jeep/1984_1992_comanche/suspension/sway_bars/addco/addc00097023.html

If you find a V8 ZJ, grab the tie rod too. Also an upgrade. :cheers:

On an MJ, yes.

You will need an underhood and crossbody harness (if you can't find the TCU connectors) from an 88-90 Renix XJ/MJ with the AW4 seeing that you still have the Renix engine in there so you can retain all the sensors. The 93-94 TCU should plug into the new Renix AW4 harness; I think the TCU connectors are the same through 1994. The white square connector off the AW4 goes to the three tranny solenoids and the speed sensor and are controlled by the TCU. The speed sensor also provides an input to the ECU. Your existing Renix ECU may or may not work with the AW4 (it does for the HOs), I'm not sure - I'd just try it first. The NSS can be jumpered out if necessary at it connector on the tranny; I'll have to dig for the pinouts.

Of course it will not be PnP. You are swapping a 86 4 cylinder 4x4 auto dash harness into a 87 4.0 4x4 5spd. If your only issue is the fuse block, consider swapping it in w/o the harness by cutting and splicing after confirming that wire colors and configuration are the same.

:agree: ^^ The only poly bushings I have are on the sway bar end links. Charlie, your piston avatar is mesmerizing. Obviously a 60* V6 piston though. :yes:

This seller also has NOS Mopar manual front window regulators, as well as lots of other NOS stuff. I know some of you guys need new regulators so I'm posting this for them. This is about 1/2 the dealer cost. Mopar, 55235207, window regulator, manual, left, 4-Door 1984-1996 Jeep XJ/MJ, $100.00 Mopar, 55235206, window regulator, manual, right, 4-Door 1984-1996 Jeep XJ, MJ, $100.00 Contact details are in the first post.

That only applies to 1998 and newer Isuzu/Honda D44s Jay. The R&P gears, diff, shims, kits, etc. are identical to the older MJ/XJ D44s. I used a 96 Honda Passport Trac-Loc diff when I had my MJ D44 regeared. Sayonara. :D

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/axletech/154_0705_used_jeep_dana_44_axles/viewall.html

The dead horse ain't dead no mo. Congrats! :thumbsup:

A couple off the top of my head: It's not in full race trim anymore. It's a 2.5L. True racing history uncertain. Crappy amaturish presentation, no in-depth pics. Listed, then set seller sets reserve. Semi-converted to street. Not worth the $$ as presented. Will not appreciate in value ever, bad investment. Besides us here on CC, nobody cares.

I don't see any bidding war erupting on this guy. Predict it'll be back, maybe listed a bit more skillfully, hopefully.........

Damn, breaks my heart to see that rust. :(

Yeah that would be good, but since we're 1300 miles apart, it might be a logistics problem. :yes:

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734

ASSuME you changed one side at a time and left it on the ground? Had no problems doing it this way. :yes:

Not ALL (as of now, but maybe later). Chevron Delo 400 LE 15w40. It meets API classification SM for older engines, and still has a cam healthy 1300 ppm zinc count, one of the few remaining. Been using it for years and will continue until the zinc count goes south. They even sell it in Walmart now. :D

Guess you mean the "Winter" button? It sets the stop take-off point for the tranny from 1st gear to 2nd gear (or maybe 3rd gear) supposedly to give better traction on icy roads by gearing down the tranny. Nothing to do with the diff.