HOrnbrod

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11077

It's metric for sure, 10mm IIRC. get yourself a set of metric flare nut wrenches. Your nuts will thank you. :D

That was legit Brett and good stuff. Not just a bunch of posers in a parking lot. :roll:

I deleted it by mistake. :doh: Here it is. Answers in CAPS based on research/experience/actual use. I guess this question is moot if the answer to the second question is yes, but is it safe/advised to use a "thick cut" gear set with a locker?

Sounds like the multifunction switch in the column could be toast, or it's harness is shorted internally in the column. How are the turn signals working?

I think he trashed those seats long ago, si? Now that's Droolsville man, droolsville. :D

Theoretically, you can get up to 3" of lift by installing new MT springs. I got about 2-1/2" (measured from the ground to the the flare bottom before and after with the same tires), and these were regulation 3+2 MT springs with 9-1/2" of free arch. But the stock original non-MT springs I replaced were completely sagged out and gone. So I did get 2-1/2" of lift over what I had originally. As stated above, using new MT springs and new non-MT springs the rear end will remain at the same height on an unloaded NJ. Going to SOA, you can do your rough calculations to try and predict lift, but SOA conversions always seem to give more lift than expected.

If your truck came w. non-delay wipers you will need to change out the multifunction switch/harness inside the column as delay wipers require one more contact/wire through delay box. The harness is included with a new multifunction switch. Be advised the MF switches for tilt and non-tilt columns are different. Changing the MF switch requires going deep into the steering column. You will also need to install the delay wiper module inline with the new harness and a new stalk with delay wiper function.

Pristine and perfect G, as always. You are starting to piss me off. No, I take that back. You pissed me off a long time ago. No way I can keep up. :cheers: Seriously though, it's absolute correct and beautiful work. But I can't imagine you ever taking that gorgeous 92 anywhere you'll need to use 4WD. She's too pretty.

Well said. Same here. Agree 100%.

:cheers: :thumbsup:

You have to copy the new "direct link" pic address between image tags as PB changes the address when you rotated it.

Log into your Photobucket account, open up the pic, then click "rotate" then "left", then save it. :cheers:

Si. 1/2" x 20

Here's a link to the Electrical Manual. Start on page 41 and run the troubleshooting checks with your multimeter. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734

First thing is to get the battery load tested. Sound like an internally shorted cell or three.

After the harness upgrade, I cheaped out when converting to H4 head lamps and opted for the Autopal housings. While they were light years ahead of the sealed beams, the Autopal lens cutoff was ragged and had weak side splash especially to the right, which was very obvious on the first night drive. In the past I had converted several old US Benz's from DOT lighting to E-code using Hella housings exclusively, so I knew what uniform light dispersal should look like. The Autopals were definitely lacking. I junked the Autopals and went to what I know worked and sprung for the H4 Euro Hella housings. Night and day as I knew it would be, sharp cutoff with defined side splash. The made in India H4 Autopal housings are a great upgrade over stock and better than nothing, but they haven't got the lens grinding or reflector design right yet. Until you see the two compared side-by-side in the same conditions, you won't know. Pics don't help. Either housing is better than the original, but the Hella housing is by far the best. But it's your money..........

Exactly. Did you stick your head under there and look to see if it's SOA or SUA?

:huh???: The XJ's rear leaf spring length is 51.5", the MJ's is 57". Plus the XJ springs are nearly flat and have almost no free arch; the MJ springs have 9.5" of free arch. I guess you could swap the springs by relocating the mounts, but why?

You going to bag it Jim? :yes:

Then why did you ask the question?? No. There is a lip at the end of the cowl. It extends about an inch toward the windshield. There is also a slanted cowl baffle plate with many punched 1/2" holes slanted forward from the cowl lip to the hood base. It lets hot air out and keeps water out.

Here are several more examples: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoBonnetVents.htm My first attempt at hood vents is the gray MJ with the ZJ factory vents installed about halfway down the page. They basically did nothing with the drip pans installed; w/o the drip pans they were marginally helpful. Hood vents just don't move enough air through the limited XJ/MJ underhood real estate. At least these did not. Eventually I found a Reflexxion cowl hood and installed it. Now this sucker (literally) really does work. Even sitting in traffic the heat pours out the cowl driven by the fans up front. Plus there's no noticeable H2O entry to worry about.

Shortbed and longbed rear step bumper brackets have the same part numbers. The only difference is right and left.

Maybe you meant enclave Jim-san? :D

Well the rain's here now Jim. For three days now and looks like several days more. But I'll take it. Everything was burned up including the cotton. All's lookin' green again now. :cheers: