HOrnbrod

Thanks for the replies. I found a set of 5100s for the front and rear. The front was easy since it's the same as a lifted XJ. The rear was a bit more difficult because of the upper and lower eye mounts, but found an early 90s lifted Toyota T100 5100 shock that's the right length and a direct bolt-on for my application. Didn't want to mess with pressing out the bar pins or sleeves.

Right. +7* is what you are shooting for. But if you're running a lift say over 3" and have 4WD, you might have to go to a bit less caster to compromise (maybe 4*) because it makes the front diff operating angle higher and can cause vibes. Course, with 2WD I don't have to worry about that. :D

Weird. Must be a non c-clip D35 thing only. So how do you get the inner seal out? Stick a rod like a pipe thru the other side and drive it out?

My OME shocks are starting to clunk and am thinking about replacing them with Bilstein 5100s or similar. Can anyone provide the Bilstein model and part numbers for a nice riding set of front and rear street shocks? Any mounting problems? I have zero experience with Bilsteins. Thanks all.

One note regarding the 96 and up cylinder head and the temp sender bung. The casting number for the 96-99 heads is 0630. According to who/what you read, the 0630 head supposedly flows a little better than the older 7120 (91 to 95 models). Hesco prefers them too on their stroker builds. When I had my stroker built I looked at all the 0630 cast heads Hesco had. The vast majority of them (roughly 2 out of 3) had the correct temp sensor threaded hole with a plug in it. So I ended up using a 98 model head that worked fine. So check the newer heads for the hole first. Nothing is written in stone regarding Jeeps.

The seat belt Torx bolts protrude thru the floorpan, some longer than others. Did you check and see if you can back it out from underneath with vicegrips? That's how I did mine.

No, it does not have to be LH, you can use all RH threads too. LH threaded stuff is just easier to come by.

Ah yes, I remember now. :clapping:

I've always used Berrymans Chemtool - good stuff and sensor safe.

I believe this color is called Hunter Green metallic. Where have we seen that before? :hmm:

Change the fuel filter if you haven't already.

Here you can see the alignment shoes (#5), adjustment nuts (#11) and shims (#10). You can get the shims at the dealer in .95mm and 4.00mm thickness. All I needed was one 4mm shim on each side to correct caster after the lift.

Cargo lamp, rear tire chains, and a brand new (less than a week old or it would be rusted out) gas tank. Can you imagine what the bed would look like if the plastic liner was pulled? :clapping: Thanks G. HERE

Why? You can insert almost 3/8" of shim thickness behind the LCA.

Dayem - and with a super rare factory pipe rack too! SCORE!!

An excellent tasteful build that's only going to improve the more you go on. :cheers: Now git that stroker in there mate! :D

Sure do. I keep it at 70-75 MPH (about 2600 RPM w. the 4.10s and 31s) and always get at least 21-24 MPG. Unfortunately around town (80% of my driving) it only gets around 13-15 MPG.

First things first. Whatever floats your boat. :roll:

Keystone Automotive had a bunch of these Reflexxion XJ cowl hoods when I was looking for mine, but they are wholesale only to commercial auto body repair shops. I had my local shop check, there were plenty at good prices, but found mine on Ebay for less $$. You can't access their inventory w/o having a commercial account. Perhaps someone with a Keystone account could check the availability? Or establish an account. Worth a shot.......

Yes. That's why you machine it to the correct length. It's fully splined, so no problems.

It's only 5/8" longer.

You must mean the AC/Heat HVAC controls in the dash? If it's in the windshield defrost mode you probably just have a vacuum leak. The defrost mode is the default when you lose vacuum.

What is an AC Reservoir box?

Might fit. Since it's for a 5.0 Mustang, I'd p/u a cheap one from the junkyard to see the amount of fab work it'll take to make it fit. The thickness of it could be a killer. If you have an auto the coolant lines are on the wrong side too, but that's not a big deal.

Someone must have realized too late that the Renix fuel sender pots wear out eventually. They are replaceable on the 91-92 HO senders.