yuhaze

I found this radiator and am wondering if anyone can provide some insight as to the fitment of this radiator. With an overall height of 12.5 inches, one would have 1.25 inches more than the stock radiator. I think the space is there. With 7.25 inches depth (fan/shroud included), it should fit in that dimension as well. Finally, at 31 5/8 inches width, there will be space left over for sure. This is a really cool product - no pun intended 8)

I have located the whole shebang - 1999 dakota 22 gallon fuel tank, pump, and harness; they also have the filler neck. Has anyone swapped out tanks with the original configuration? Mine is a 1988 Comanche, and I see references to this swap working on conversions.

Thanks! I'll start working on these two leads.

I found the cause of my intermittent brake lights and turn signal in the rear lights. The wiring going into the sockets is breaking as it enters the socket molding. Does anyone know how I can replace the sockets or harness? I have searched the net, and called dealers and others...... only to learn that whatever was available is discontinued. I do see some sockets that are made for Ford or even the YJ wrangler, but am uncertain if they are a good replacement. Thanks in advanced for any guidance.

I agree with this - I , too, had one of these, and the transverse positioning of the "v" shaped motor caused the rear end to jerk left or right, depending on whether one was accelerating or slowing. I remember one time very clearly, as if it happened only yesterday: I was exiting the freeway. It was raining. The roads were wet. On the off ramp I downshift. My rear wheel jerks left, and I almost wipe out. WOW! Since then I have owned countless bikes, most Honda, but not a single one the CX ....

OK, so I must have been smoking crack .... I crawled under the manche and saw that these were inded screwed into the tranny. Thanks for all your help!\

Thanks to everyone who replied so far. I don't have a connector that screw in to the transmission housing, so the only applicable response I've seen is to use the dealer provided repair kit. I am not convinced that the dorman part I referenced is something that I can use, or better said, is something meant to replace what I currently have. I imagine that I would have to thread the hole in the transmission housing in order to accept the fitting from dorman. After that I wonder if the line I have is the proper size and can just be pushed into the fitting to make the connection. I don's see where flaring the end would help at all. Am I getting this right? My option is to go for the dealer repair kit?

I've read several posts related to this topic, but didn't read anything related to my issue specifically (I think) I recently changed the oil and filter in the tranny and when I reconnected the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission, one of the two didn't push in as tightly as the other. It has also come loose several times on the road, leaving people behind me with droplets of oil on their windshield (I'm sure) I see white smoke in the rear view mirror, and that is my queue to pull over and push the line back into the tranny. The dealer has one (!) repair kit left, which includes o-ring, retaining clip, and some other (mystery object) item that may be a special tool, all for the low low price of USD40.00 !! The connector I see on Rock Auto (Dorman part # 800714) is one that screws into the transmission, and not at all what I am looking for. I don't know if this is supposed to replace what I have, or what. Can anyone help me figure this one out? :ack:

I keep forgetting to ask: I need to replace the terminal wires, can I use any automotive wire and connector? I'm worried that some may not have chemical compatibility with fuel.

hornbrod I could plug it in and short the D1-5 and D1-6 diagnostic connector pins to start the pump and check the current as you described. Is it OK to run the pump dry to check current?

Thanks for the quick reply wildman The resistance across the two terminals is 5.5 ohm the ballast resistor checks out at 1.1 ohm the part number on the replacement fuel pump matches that of the one that was in the tanks - E7006 Is has a mfgr date of 391 on it, so I guess it may have been replaced as part of a recall. When I was checking the resistance I did notice that the terminal had moved CLOSE to the mounting bracket. Maybe it shorted? I'd have to figure out how to better secure the pump.....

I have a 1988 Comanche 4.0 automatic 4WD and just swapped out the fuel pump with strainer. I test drove the truck for a day, then it sat for two. When I tried to start it two days later it would not. After some troubleshooting I wound up removing the pump and noticed that the hot wire to the pump (on the inside of the tank) had gotten so hot that it melted itself out of the insulation and came in contact with the fuel guage wire. I'm not convinced that the fuel gage wire melted all the way through - it was still working. So I put 12V to the pump and it still works. What I'm not clear on is why the wire got so hot. Do I have a ground problem? I will replace the two wires, but want to make sure that when I re-assemble everything that I will be OK. The only thing I can think of is that I have a poor ground and that is why the wire got so hot. Can anyone help me to better understand what happened here?

here's what happened: I used a 1/4 " drive, a 6 point swivel socket, and SEVERAL extensions. I used the mechanics of the swivel socket and the extension bars to create a leverage arm that is not possible without the swivel. In other words, the swivel socket locks and I use the extensions to do most of the turning rather than the ratchet itself. This, the 1/4 " drive,and the 6 point socket is what made removal of the sensor possible

Well, I've ordered and received the weatherpack connector, now I face another challenge. I seems that the bolts are 11mm, but very difficult to get to. I started with the bolt furthest away. I used a swivel adapter with a few extensions, and slipped .... twice I'm afraid to damage the bolt too much, in fact I think it was already damaged; not too bad though. Is there a trick or a special tool to use to remove the bolts?

thanks for the reply i do see that the wiring goes into the firewall, as the TSB describes, so I might have this already done. I did not yet verify the wires going directly to the ECU, but I suspect that is what is happening. I will likely install the weatherpack connector on the harness and plug the new sensor in that way.