HOrnbrod

Finished the deal this afternoon at our local dealership. Won't bore you with the details, but we did pretty well I think, came out to $24K with a very well equipped 2012 JK Sport (had more options than the Sahara) w. quite a bit of extra Mopar accessories included that I wanted (read chrome). :D . Did want to mention this though. We traded in wifey's 06 Malibu Maxx SS for the JK and got the $8K high end limit for it. I had my MJ parked outside during the 3+ hours of negotiations, and the owner of the three Jeep dealerships in our area showed up from the next town. He was called in by the local manager. Turned out he's a old MJ guy. I showed him my MJ, we yakked over it, and I let him take it for a spin. When he came back he offered me a $14K trade-in allowance against the JK bottom line, and made it clear he would be taking it home and not reselling. I told him to basically F-Off and die, but in a very nice way. :yes:

You have a 24 TPS fault code. If the input and/or output is faulty on the three pin connector, just replacing the TPS won't fix it. The TPS must be tested as follows: The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT. Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS. The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: - NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected! • Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting". • High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom. • Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly. • Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine. • Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

Am getting ready to pull the plug for one of these. It has the Sahara trim level, leather, tow package, limited slip and 3.73s. I like it over the previous JKs in that they are now fitted with a new 3.6L V6 that puts out 285HP/260 lb-ft torque. To help with mileage I'll be putting on the 18" wheels. The wife loves it, and has great reviews. Will be trading in her 96 Malibu Maxx SS. So what say the folks here that have one?

CJ-10 - 3/4 ton CJ Truck, export mainly to Australia CJ-10A - Aircraft Military Tug in the United States

Jeep Model Acronyms Bantam Pilot Model - 1940 BRC-60 - Bantam model - 70 produced BRC-40 - American Bantam Jeep for military BRC-40/4WS - Bantam 4 wheel steering Jeep model BRC-40 Checker - Checker's take on the Bantam design Quad - Willys design prototype - 1940 Pygmy - Ford's design prototype - 1940 CPJ - Chevrolet entry proto for the Military design group Mark II - Bantam production 1940-1941 MA - Willys production Jeep for the military 1,553 produced - 1941 GP - Ford's Jeep that the military ordered 1,500 of eventually 4,456 were produced - 1941 BRC-40 - Bantam's Jeep turned into the military 1,500 but in the end 2,605 were produced - 1941 MB(1) - Willys second generation Jeep design (the model produced in 1941 had a welded grill and 25,808 were produced) MB(2) - Willys second design that incorporated the Ford designed stamped grill - 335,531 were built GPW - Ford's Jeep built on Willys design specs, the breakdown of the designation is "G" Government, "P" Ford's designation for 80" wheelbase "W" Willys design 277,896 were built from 1941 - 1945 GPA - Ford's Amphibious Jeep 12,778 were built from 1942 - 1943 "A" fpr amphibious M-38 - Willys gov design of the CJ-3A from 1950 - 1952 only 61,423 were ever produced M-38a1 - Willys government design that would mostly resemble the CJ-5. 101,488 were produced from 1952 - 1957 M-170 - Long wheelbase Military Ambulance M-151 - MUTT ("Military Unit Tactical Truck") built from 1959 - 1978 M-718 - Ambulance version of the M-151 M-422 - Mighty Mite. Aluminum Marine Corps Jeep, air cooled V4 lightweight M-422A1 - Longer wheelbase version of the Mighty Mite M-606 - The Jeep M606 was a military version of the Jeep CJ-3B, built 1962 M-606A1 (12v) and M606A2 (24v), M606A3 Designed after the CJ-5 both for US Armed Forces and Export from 1965 through 1982 M-676 - FC truck the M676 (or type I) was a two door pickup which differed very little from a stock FC-170 M-677 - FC truck The M677 (type II) was a four door crew cab pickup having the same 103" wheelbase and thus a shorter pickup box M-679 - FC Marine Ambulance M715 - Kaiser-built military pick-up truck, similar to the Gladiator J2000 - J4000 trucks M-725 - military field ambulance CJ-V35 - Military custom order. Cross between MB, M38, CJ-3A. CJ-V35/U 1000 modified CJ-3As were produced for the U.S. Navy as the underwater vehicle XM-170 - Experimental cousin of the CJ-4 CJ-2 (Agrijeep) - Willys first commercial bid for the gen public, mostly in farm use CJ-2A - Willys second production Jeep for the gen public, 214,202 were built from 1945 - 1949 CJ-3A - Willy third design, this Jeep had 131,843 produced from 1949 - 1953 CJ-3B - Willys design this was much like the CJ-3A only the hood was much taller. To accommodate the F-head. 155,494 were produced from 1953 - 1968 CJ-4 - The missing link as some would call this one, it is an early design of what would become the CJ-5, only one is known to still exist CJ-4 (Mahindra and Mahindra) - a long CJ-3B built in India FC 150 - Jeep Forward Control Truck, based on the 81" wheelbase CJ-5 initially. FC 170 - Longer wheelbase (103.5) Forward Control truck, used Super Hurricane I6 CJ-5 - Willys (Kaiser) made from 1955 - 1970, then AMC took it from there and built them till 1983 when among criticism about getting tough on high rollover risk AMC reluctantly decided to drop the short base model form its lineup. in the end over 600,000 of them were produced CJ-6 - Willys (Kaiser) 1956 - 1970 and AMC 1970 - 1981, this one has a 101" wheelbase. From 1976-1981 they were export only. The only production number I have is 50,172 which sounds awful low to me for that many years CJ-5A/CJ-6A - Kaiser Elevated the Tuxedo Park package to a separate model in 1964 ended ? CJ-7 - Built by AMC starting in 1976, this Jeep had 93.4" wheelbase and had many offspring to its design CJ-8 - this AMC design was known as the Scrambler, it has a 103" wheelbase and with the half top took on a truck type look. built from 1981 - 1985 27,792 were built CJ-10 - 3/4 ton CJ Truck, export mainly to Australia CJ-10A - Aircraft Military Tug in the United States DJ-5A - Jeep built 2 wheel drive for mostly Postal delivery, they did also built a DJ-8 similar to the CJ-8 YJ - Wrangler, Started by AMC in 1986 and taken over by Chrysler in 1988, 632,231 were built up until 1995 TJ - 1997 - 2006, Jeep Wrangler TJ-L - Long wheelbase TJ available for overseas military use LJ - 2003 - 2006, Wrangler Unlimited KJ - Jeep Liberty XJ - Jeep Cherokee VJ - 1949 through 1951 original 2WD Jeepster ZJ - Jeep Grand Cherokee 1993 - 1998 MJ - Comanche - 1984-92 - compact pick-up FC - Forward Control Jeep Van Trucks FJ-3 and FJ-3A - Fleet Vans FJ - Eagle Talon WJ - Jeep Grand Cherokee 1999 - 2004 WK - Jeep Grand Cherokee 2005 - SJ - Denotes the full size Grand Wagoneers and Trucks 1963 - 1993 XK - Jeep Commander JK - Jeep Wrangler, 2007 - present

JEEP ACRONYM LIST Bantam Pilot Model - 1940 BRC-60 - Bantam model - 70 produced BRC-40 - American Bantam Jeep for military BRC-40/4WS - Bantam 4 wheel steering Jeep model BRC-40 Checker - Checker's take on the Bantam design Quad - Willys design prototype - 1940 Pygmy - Ford's design prototype - 1940 CPJ - Chevrolet entry proto for the Military design group Mark II - Bantam production 1940-1941 MA - Willys production Jeep for the military 1,553 produced - 1941 GP - Ford's Jeep that the military ordered 1,500 of eventually 4,456 were produced - 1941 BRC-40 - Bantam's Jeep turned into the military 1,500 but in the end 2,605 were produced - 1941 MB(1) - Willys second generation Jeep design (the model produced in 1941 had a welded grill and 25,808 were produced) MB(2) - Willys second design that incorporated the Ford designed stamped grill - 335,531 were built GPW - Ford's Jeep built on Willys design specs, the breakdown of the designation is "G" Government, "P" Ford's designation for 80" wheelbase "W" Willys design 277,896 were built from 1941 - 1945 GPA - Ford's Amphibious Jeep 12,778 were built from 1942 - 1943 "A" fpr amphibious M-38 - Willys gov design of the CJ-3A from 1950 - 1952 only 61,423 were ever produced M-38a1 - Willys government design that would mostly resemble the CJ-5. 101,488 were produced from 1952 - 1957 M-170 - Long wheelbase Military Ambulance M-151 - MUTT ("Military Unit Tactical Truck") built from 1959 - 1978 M-718 - Ambulance version of the M-151 M-422 - Mighty Mite. Aluminum Marine Corps Jeep, air cooled V4 lightweight M-422A1 - Longer wheelbase version of the Mighty Mite M-606 - The Jeep M606 was a military version of the Jeep CJ-3B, built 1962 M-606A1 (12v) and M606A2 (24v), M606A3 Designed after the CJ-5 both for US Armed Forces and Export from 1965 through 1982 M-676 - FC truck the M676 (or type I) was a two door pickup which differed very little from a stock FC-170 M-677 - FC truck The M677 (type II) was a four door crew cab pickup having the same 103" wheelbase and thus a shorter pickup box M-679 - FC Marine Ambulance M715 - Kaiser-built military pick-up truck, similar to the Gladiator J2000 - J4000 trucks M-725 - military field ambulance CJ-V35 - Military custom order. Cross between MB, M38, CJ-3A. CJ-V35/U 1000 modified CJ-3As were produced for the U.S. Navy as the underwater vehicle XM-170 - Experimental cousin of the CJ-4 CJ-2 (Agrijeep) - Willys first commercial bid for the gen public, mostly in farm use CJ-2A - Willys second production Jeep for the gen public, 214,202 were built from 1945 - 1949 CJ-3A - Willy third design, this Jeep had 131,843 produced from 1949 - 1953 CJ-3B - Willys design this was much like the CJ-3A only the hood was much taller. To accommodate the F-head. 155,494 were produced from 1953 - 1968 CJ-4 - The missing link as some would call this one, it is an early design of what would become the CJ-5, only one is known to still exist CJ-4 (Mahindra and Mahindra) - a long CJ-3B built in India FC 150 - Jeep Forward Control Truck, based on the 81" wheelbase CJ-5 initially. FC 170 - Longer wheelbase (103.5) Forward Control truck, used Super Hurricane I6 CJ-5 - Willys (Kaiser) made from 1955 - 1970, then AMC took it from there and built them till 1983 when among criticism about getting tough on high rollover risk AMC reluctantly decided to drop the short base model form its lineup. in the end over 600,000 of them were produced CJ-6 - Willys (Kaiser) 1956 - 1970 and AMC 1970 - 1981, this one has a 101" wheelbase. From 1976-1981 they were export only. The only production number I have is 50,172 which sounds awful low to me for that many years CJ-5A/CJ-6A - Kaiser Elevated the Tuxedo Park package to a separate model in 1964 ended ? CJ-7 - Built by AMC starting in 1976, this Jeep had 93.4" wheelbase and had many offspring to its design CJ-8 - this AMC design was known as the Scrambler, it has a 103" wheelbase and with the half top took on a truck type look. built from 1981 - 1985 27,792 were built CJ-10 - 3/4 ton CJ Truck, export mainly to Australia CJ-10A - Aircraft Military Tug in the United States DJ-5A - Jeep built 2 wheel drive for mostly Postal delivery, they did also built a DJ-8 similar to the CJ-8 YJ - Wrangler, Started by AMC in 1986 and taken over by Chrysler in 1988, 632,231 were built up until 1995 TJ - 1997 - 2006, Jeep Wrangler TJ-L - Long wheelbase TJ available for overseas military use LJ - 2003 - 2006, Wrangler Unlimited KJ - Jeep Liberty XJ - Jeep Cherokee VJ - 1949 through 1951 original 2WD Jeepster ZJ - Jeep Grand Cherokee 1993 - 1998 MJ - Comanche - 1984-92 - compact pick-up FC - Forward Control Jeep Van Trucks FJ-3 and FJ-3A - Fleet Vans FJ - Eagle Talon WJ - Jeep Grand Cherokee 1999 - 2004 WK - Jeep Grand Cherokee 2005 - SJ - Denotes the full size Grand Wagoneers and Trucks 1963 - 1993 XK - Jeep Commander JK - Jeep Wrangler, 2007 - present

Lookin' good Bo-man. I'll have to do the trim around the door windows; that looks great. :D Already did the windshield trim and drip rails. Now all you have to left to finish up are NOS chrome bumpers front and rear, chrome tailgate handle, chrome side moldings, chrome windshield wipers, chrome accented tail lights, chrome accented wheels, chrome camper door handle, chrome exhaust tips, chrome front bumper light bar, chrome.......... But a damn good start shipmate. :cheers:

No. The Renix speedo is cable driven mechanical, HO is electronic.

Since it's a 92 and threw a code, it's still in ECU memory if you haven't disconnected the battery. Check the fault code and it may give you a clue where the problem is. That's what it's there for. :D http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29857

Looks like there are no shims on the left side and 3-4 on the right. Normally there's an equal number on both sides. Did your alignment guy install or remove and shims trying to correct the caster using his machine to check during the process? Anyhow, stick a 4mm shim on each side, looks like there's room enough. It can only make it better. Do you have an angle finder? It's real easy to check the caster yourself if you do. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

Are the wheels centered left and right between the wheel wells with the proper length track bar or an adjustable?

You answered your own question John. :D

They are correct, there is only one p/n for the clevis. But there are two p/n's for the shims, one is thick, and one is thin. All I needed was ONE 4mm SHIM (the thick one) on each side, in addition to the shims that were already there, to correct caster to specs. Where are your pics?

The tranny mount is one of the parts I always replace with a Mopar original. Tried an el-cheapo once and it sagged out within four years. The OEM mount was in better shape after fifteen years when I removed it. I have no problem using some aftermarket engine mounts though. Better and stronger than originals, Brown Dog for example.

Something to add to this: The AW-4 and AX-15 transmissions use the same mount even if the Autozone parts chimp says they are different. :D

You're not sorry at all Jim. :D And for the life of me I can't think of a decent comeback. Bur seriously, they have never leaked H2O or wind whistle when latched shut. I've had lots of other cars with similar vents that did though.

My vent windows don't leak at all and I'm always opening and closing them. Lucky I guess. :D

Yes, yes, and AFAIR it ran me about $240 shipped. But try to get your original balanced first.

I had inconsistent vibes and after trying everything you did plus a lot more. I pulled the drive shaft and brought it to a local shop for balancing. The foam wrapping was deteriorated and the guy could not balance it and get consistent readings. No charge from him, and he recommended getting a replacement. I did (a custom fm. Tom Woods) and it the vibes went away. If all else fails, at least have a shop check the shaft balance.

Then I agree with the others. Replace the O2.

Suggest looking into rear driveshaft balance (especially if you still have the sleeved OEM driveshaft) and/or driveshaft u-joints.

Have you installed the correct speedometer gear that matches your new tire size diameter vs. your existing gear ratio? If not your speedometer / odometer is no where near correct. And how do you deriving your MPG figure? If it's not by using GPS it's AFU.

Try adjusting the Throttle Valve cable (commonly called the kickdown cable) at the throttle body. If maladjusted it will cause your AW4 shifting points to be all over the place. Takes no tools and about five minutes to do. 1: Push in and hold the release button 2: While holding in release button, push "conduit" in as far as it will go 3: Release button 4: Rotate throttle to WOT, some people do this with the gas pedal. Others do it from the engine compartment. 5: Hold at WOT for a few seconds, cable should ratchet out a click or two. 6: Your TV cable should now be properly adjusted. :cheers:

Factoid: I haven't checked lately, but there are more US births in August than any other month. That's because winter is just getting ramped up in most of the country nine months earlier and most families turn to warmer indoor sports. :D

:agree: With my 31" Michelins using a similar method it works out to 30 PSI front, 25 PSI rear. With a load I air up the rears to 30 PSI or more. And don't forget to rotate every 3K-5K miles. :D