HOrnbrod

Do you have the two connectors the auto TPS has? Do you have the reference voltage? AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles--FOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES. However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage

I've always just snugged them up until they squish down maybe 25% or so. Whether this is correct or not :dunno: .

The distributor has a seal (p/n 33004595) and gasket (p/n J3181288) inside on the body shaft where it fits in the engine hole. If it's missing it will leak oil and move from side to side if the distributor clamp collar isn't secure. So pull it out and check first.

A Renix guy will have to answer that. Also if you are not receiving the 12V signal to the relay a good or bad relay will never latch when the truck starts and the pump will not run. After you ID the FP relay get your meter out and check for 12V out of the relay. Or listen or touch it to see if it clicks. Then go to the ballast relay and check for 12V. All after you release the key.

Yes, dice on the FP relay. The fuel pump relay kicks in (latches) after the engine starts and you release the key. It then sends the 12V operating voltage thru the ballast resistor to lower it then to the fuel pump. If your FP relay isn't latching or isn't receiving the IGN OFF signal the pump will quit as soon as you release the key from START to RUN. I think that's what your pump is doing, si?

I'm willing to bet a month's pay that Cruiser pulled that out of his parts manual. :yes:

What year, model, engine? Put it in your signature so we don't have to guess. Tried swapping your fuel pump relay yet? Sounds like it's not larching when you release the key.

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html

I originally sold a set of take-off wheels from my new JK (5 on 5") to a guy with a 2011 Liberty. He came to pick them up and then decided to see if they would fit. He had the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. Didn't buy them. :shake: But sold them to another guy the next day with a Ford. :yes:

Thank you for sharing that. Yep - they be rollin'. Blue: 56001076 Black: 56001077

Different module - the headlight delay is controlled by the Head Lamp Sentinel module. Has nothing to do with the chime module.

Looks like an afterthought.

It's called a chime module and is located next to the fuse panel. There are two varieties, the blue case and the black case. The blue case has the headlamp warning; the black case does not. Plentiful at the junkyards or I'll send the part number if you want to buy one.

A couple of things I've learned over the years regarding accurate tire balancing are to make sure that the shop pulls ALL the weight off each wheel and starts balancing from scratch. Even better pull them off yourself before turning it over to them. And go to a shop that uses a Hunter Road Force balancer. Call around and find a shop that uses this machine before going there. There's no more accurate machine out there today and it's idiot operator proof.

Noted, and bookmarked. :thumbsup: Going to do one for the JKs Sam-man?

That thing looks great Ben, as in everything else you do. I love it! :cheers:

Thought so. Gracias Pete.

Factory Liberty wheels are all 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern, si?

PM sent. EDIT: Tried to send you a PM - message comes back "jimoshel can not receive any new messages". WTF? Alexia?

The D35 would probably hold up forever if you drove like Grand-Mama. But who wants to do that with a stroker? :yes:

There could be. Pull the driveshaft and examine the slip yoke shaft. It should be smooth with no grooves especially where it rides in the seal. If there is even a minute worn groove, you can throw seals in it all day and they will leak eventually. If there's a groove, replace the slip yoke. Also make sure the outer seal edge is coated with a thin coat of hi-temp RTV when installing so it won't leak around the outer pressed in edge. Don't drive it for 24-hours or so to let the RTV set up.

Looks good! I had a bath shower just like that too. Back then as it is today the bathroom had to have a vent (window or fan). And if the shower interior wall took up the entire outside wall, they usually stuck a smallish window high up in the shower for ventilation rather than using an electric fan. I wanted to keep a functioning window so I knocked out the wood framed window and put in an all vinyl window then tiled the entire shower enclosure. Image Not Found

Gotta say it: You get what you pay for. :thumbsup:

This is true. I snapped two axles in the D35 (both on the passenger side) and an axle upgrade is absolutely necessary if you like to get on the stroker every now and then. I do. :yes: I had already installed Ford Explorer disk brakes on the D35, so I opted for the D44 or maybe a Ford 8.8 so I could swap them in easier. I really preferred an MJ D44 to keep things in the family, and finally found one w. 3.55 gearing for sale on the Cherokee Tech forum right up the road in TN. Since I have 31" tires, I had it regeared it to 4.10 and installed a Trac Lok diff from a Honda Passport D44. It's the perfect ratio for me. The Explorer disks swapped over w. no problems. Zero problems so far.