HOrnbrod

Thanks guys. I fixed it be reinstalling the US English Dictionary add-on. Somehow it got deleted during one of the FF automatic updates. :hmm:

Pick up a new temp sender, and replace it. Cheap, easy. They go bad commonly, especially the aftermarket junk. But first after you remove it from the head, if you can, beg/borrow a mechanical temp gauge and screw it into the head bung (1/8" pipe thread) and verify it's temp indication vs. the dash electronic gauge.

Has it ever boiled over? Have you verified the accuracy of the temp gauge with a known good standard? Have you replaced the temp gauge sender? Do first things first. I can not believe people blindly start replacing their entire cooling system while relying on the the stock temp gauge. But wait, there's more! I did the same exact thing as you (after verifying the dash gauge accuracy). Replaced the entire cooling system. Turned out after all the $$ spent and aggravation, I found out the the cat was nearly clogged shut while redoing the exhaust system. There's never an easy answer for cooling.

I picked up a lot of this old technology audio/video stuff in various military PX's here and there when it was on sale for almost free. A lot of it is still unopened in the original boxes. I can't bring myself to throw it out, even though the wife want's me to chuck it all. But sooner or later, someone always needs stuff like this stuff to read the old media formats. Packrat I guess........

If it doesn't work Rob, I also have a Pioneer LD player you can have for shipping cost. Looks like the same model as in your pics.

Check settings for FF or the new CC? Spell checker worked fine in the old format, but not now. I haven't changed anything in FF. :dunno:

This might help: MJ Coil Spring Codes 5200 1107 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EF (#655) 5200 1108 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EG (#690) 5200 1109 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EH (#727) 5200 1110 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EJ (#765) 5200 1111 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EK (#806) 5200 1784 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EL 5200 1785 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EM 5200 1786 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EN 5200 1787 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EP 5200 1788 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded ER 5200 1789 AR Standard Duty, Coded FL 5200 1114 AR Std. Duty, Coded FE (#607) 5200 1115 AR Std. Duty, Coded FF (#646) 5200 1116 AR Std. Duty, Coded FG (#688) 5200 1117 AR Std. Duty, Coded FH (#733) 5200 1118 AR Std. Duty, Coded FJ (#780) 5200 1119 AR Std. Duty, Coded FK (#831) 5200 1790 AR Std. Duty, Coded FM 5200 1791 AR Std. Duty, Coded FN 5200 1792 AR Std. Duty, Coded FP 5200 1120 AR H.D., Coded GD (#578) 5200 1122 AR H.D., Coded GF (#670) 5200 1121 AR H.D., Coded GE (#622) 5200 1123 AR H.D., Coded GG (#720) 5200 1124 AR H.D., Coded GH (#775) 5200 1125 AR H.D., Coded GJ (#834) 5200 1793 AR H.D., Coded GK 5200 1794 AR H.D., Coded GL 5200 1795 AR H.D., Coded GM 5200 1796 AR H.D., Coded GN D35 & D44 axles not interchangable. D44 is thicker with different spline counts and length.

That mirror is the same p/n as used on the Wranglers of the same period, according to the parts manual. http://www.badgerstateauto.com/mirror-right/

Is there one when posting? Can I enable one? Or am I blind? Am using Firefox 15.0

You have a deal Garvin. I'll just need the valve and the arm to do the hydraulic testing. I'll shoot you postage via Paypal or whatever; just send me a PM when you are ready.

I kind of replaced my stuff as it wore out. And if your rig is over 100K it won't have far to go, especially if you run bigger tires. If I noticed slop somewhere, I replaced it. Usually you can find NOS Mopar stuff for the same or in some cases even less than offshore junk on Fleabay. Replaced the drag link last week; that was the last of the original front end, except for ball joints. They are next. here's a pretty good place for NOS Jeep parts. They have some great sales occasionally. http://www.tapcointernational.com/store/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=differential

You know you need them on the trail. :yes: HERE

Sure, if the arm still rotates 360 and it doesn't leak.

If you mean used stuff from a yard, no idea. Don't do that for steering or brakes. I used all NOS stuff I found on Ebay and other places. And Moog used to be good stuff. Now it's made in China like the rest of the junk unless you're lucky to find some original ols NOS stuff.

Yes, the Toy valve works the same way and I've been looking at them. Dodge p/u trucks and some vans also had them and they look like they would be easier to plumb in. The bushing is a plastic piece that determines the arm's position on the splined valve shaft. Using care, mine came off easily and I've repositioned it a couple of times. But most will probably not come off w/o breaking or buggering up the splines; I think that's why the FSM says you MUST replace it. Poppycock! :yes: Maybe, maybe not. That's why I want one from a 90 or above to bench test. You can't take them apart to decrud them. Got one Jim?

Quicker ratio, better drivability. http://comancheclub....ear#entry181307 http://www.chevelles.../ftecref29.html

I've had the pleasure of knowing the G-man for a few years now via the forum. I thought I was a nit-pickin SOB, but this guy is off the charts. :yes: "Better than new" is often used by used car salesmen and other idiots, but in this case it's pure fact for both of these rigs. The man knows his MJ stuff and it shows, clearly. Enjoy the Hesco in the 89 G. :cheers:

If "they" means the dealer, that is not what they ordered. These are not OEM Mopar, they are aftermarket. And they work just fine.

I have not used it but was considering a similar product. Since you live on a dirt road, I imagine the hardest part of the job would be surface prep. Getting all that mud and sand caked up in all the creases and crevices off the undercarriage would be a tough job. I would think the coating would last a lot longer sprayed on a clean surface.

Have you checked the 12V input at the inline fuse on the TCU harness?

The fuel pump and tail lamps are grounded by a single sheet metal screw behind the left tail lamp. Try pulling the lamp and check for a good ground and/or any skinned wires at the harness.

Agree. I'd pass for that reason, and also because I think you could do better than that with patience.

Get the whole replacement 5/16" quick connector. Example: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oil-cooler-line-repair-kit-83502745.html

Welcome. Most of my front end is ZJ V8 components; sway bar, tie rod, steering box, and drag link. The steering stabilizer (OME) and track bar (Teraflex) are aftermarket. Works well for me. :thumbsup:

Sounds good. :cheers: Anyone else?