HOrnbrod

You will still get some lift with new MT springs. The amount will depend on the current condition of your existing springs, and the weight of your camper. And I agree - MT springs are the best way to go. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36694-military-wrapped-springs-with-lift-group-buy/?hl=general+springs&do=findComment&comment=368180

:doh: Missed that. I figured if someone already posted it, SOMEONE (named Ben of the North) would immediately point it out and make me look like a fool. But that's cool. IB be watchin you Ben. :yes:

I would say yes they are. Both of my modules are from an older Renix and both work fine. Are you adding intermittent wipers? It'll take more than just plugging the module in.

I did it a bit differently. Have the D44 with Explorer disk brakes. I used new MJ e-brake cables (they were plenty long enough and of course fit the turnbuckle adjuster). For the Explorer e-brake "hooks" I used the stock Ford clevis pieces, slotted them, and slipped the cable in. Works great.

Nice Alex. She's LOUD!

Hmmm. There's a lot of that going around lately........ Glad you found it.

Invest in a 1991 factory service manual (FSM) set; best tool you ever can purchase. It will pay for itself many times over if you plan on doing your own maintenance and repairs. Ebay or elsewhere.

:agree: Plus change all the fluids, as you already have started on.

Did you disconnect your battery lately? You have a 91, first year of the OBD1 ignition system. Whenever you disconnect the battery to work on it, the ECU (computer) defaults to it's stored settings. It'll take 100-150 miles of driving for the ECU to relearn the new sensor inputs again. During this time it will want to stall, but the more you drive it gradually gets better and soon you will be golden again. In order to prevent the ECU "relearning" process, don't disconnect the the battery unless absolutely necessary. If it is necessary and your repair won't take too long, place a standard 9 VDC battery modified with leads and alligator clips in parallel with your battery before disconnecting so the ECU will retain power and keep it's memory.

All you have done is remove the bolt that fastens the brake line junction block to the axle tube. That is not a vent. You must have the plastic hose adapter somewhere on the axle tube and it's snapped off. Probably clogged with crud too from the looks of that axle.

Yes. That's not mine, pics courtesy of mjeff87.

She will be truly marvelous when you get everything bolted back onto the newly painted body. I did my grille similarly to yours, except kept the chrome. :yes: As you said, it was a PITA to mask.

Or your mother-in-law.

The MJ proportioning valve is the load sensing valve on the axle. The brass block that the master lines connect to is a distribution block only, no proportioning there. When I replaced the master and booster with a 1995 XJ unit, I reused the original flare nuts on the distribution block and double flared the new supply lines from the new master because that's what I had on the original lines. Working fine, no leaks, for a few years now. Is this what you are asking?

It can either look like the pic airspeed posted, or it might be threaded in the left axle tube like the below. There should be a hose attached going up into the frame to another plastic hose adapter fitting with a rain cap. Mine was like airspeed's picture with a vent hose on it up to the frame. The plastic fitting on the axle was clogged up on mine. Image Not Found

If anyone has a pic please post it up. It doesn't show up in the parts manual.... Thanks!

Who cares about a color match. That's easy. Possibility to order later Mike? Both of mine are cracked in the same place also.

Did you check to see if the D44 axle vent fittings and hose are clear first? I had what I thought was a leaky seal on the drivers side coming from the e-brake adjuster hole and running down the inside of the tire (Explorer disk rear brakes). Replaced the axle seal twice and the leak eventually came back both times. Finally checked the axle vent; the axle plastic fitting that the vent hose connected to was clogged shut. Drilled it out, got it clear and no more leaky.

Quick question regarding the 95-96 master/booster swap: I'm trying to trace down a slight vacuum leak and spongy brake pedal. Is there a gasket or o-ring between the master cylinder and booster where the RED arrow is pointing? I've forgotten :dunno: and the parts manual is confusing. Anyone remember?

Guess that's somewhat of a safety feature? You can do a time vs. volume fuel capacity test with the MJ pump for a minute and it flows steady for the full minute. Anyhow, glad you found out it's normal for the Dak unit. Probably the modular fuel units used in the late model XJs are the same way. :thumbsup:

If and when it happens, Good for you! :thumbsup:

Then do a volume test. Capacity (Volume) Test Relieve fuel system pressure at the fuel rail test port. Disconnect fuel line on fuel rail. Place fuel line into a graduated container. Turn to IGN and let pump run for one minute. Volume of fuel should be 1.05 qts. (1.0L) in one minute. If fuel volume is not as specified, check for a plugged fuel filter or fuel pump inlet sock. Also, check the fuel pump supply voltage at the fuel pump connector using the connector supply and ground pins. Can be anything from 9V - 12V depending on if you have the ballast resistor in the circuit, and/or corrosion at the fuel pump ground behind the left tail lamp. Instead of starting new threads about your original problem you should do some troubleshooting on what symptoms you have.

I've had the Bosch 69302 on now for a bit over five years - still hanging.