HOrnbrod

Check for fault codes. http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/

Saying Ford and Richard Petty in the same sentence sounds like a sacrilege. I remember him mostly back in the day dominating NASCAR with his Mopar Plymouth Superbirds and Dodge Daytonas. I was a closet fan then though of David Pearson, a Ford guy.

Toyota. Yes, a Ford. :yes:

Jon Kelly - good guy, good products. :thumbsup: http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/

He led the 1st half of the race, there was a caution, everyone pitted. He had a less than stellar pit stop, came back out about 6th place, and steadily lost positions until he went into the wall by himself. He had obvious handling problems, the rear end and the track bar were mentioned. I like him too. He's the best road racer in NASCAR.

I think you are Jim. I must be the #2 olde phart though, nine years behind you. :cheers:

Corkscrew pins have been around for years. They hold pretty well and are mainly used to anchor arm/head rest lace pads to upholstered furniture. The more you use the better they hold.

I don't think most are bashing the Jeep per se. They are bashing the price it fetched based on the quality of the build. I didn't think it was worth $19K either. But whoever bought it, I hope they enjoy it. On the other hand, there are those here who bash anything and everything that comes up. The natural haters who love to hear themselves spouting negativity. Just ignore them.

http://www.starcrest.com/product/all+around+the+house/indoor+functional/corkscrewupholsterytackssetof24.do

Wasn't his day - his car broke. :(

Hey Coffman! Your homeboy from Tasmania, Marcos Ambrose, is doing his usual butt-kicking at the NASCAR Watkins Glen road course today. The only way he can be beat is if his car breaks. Hell of a driver.

WJ lower, XJ upper is correct.

Good point. Didn't notice that. Would bug me too.

You don't need a bed full of speakers or an offroad rig with winch and lots of lights to have need for a higher capacity alternator. The factory electrical charging system system and wiring system was designed to handle the original equipment load barely adequately, with very little wiggle room for load expansion. When you add more load like H4 headlamps, H4 fog lamps, dual electric fans, power accessories like windows/seats/etc. the total load adds up quickly especially when running an a cold rainy night with everything going full blast. The OEM 60, 75, or 90 amp charging system ain't going to handle it. So a larger alternator is needed, but just as important the weak factory mains cables and feeder circuits to high amp devices like lighting has to be upgraded too.

Agree. But that's B/J. And with all the fees/taxes they charge, the seller might pocket $12K.

This is the blower motor resistor pack from a Benz Sprinter van (4-speed blower motor): The thermal fuse was blown, the blower only ran on HI. The thermal fuse was replaced by the below from Radio Shack. It's DC amp rating (converted from the AC specs) is close the the Sprinter original thermal fuse rating (actually a bit less, better protection, according to the article) which is very close to the Jeep MJ/XJ blower motor specs: http://m.radioshack.com/radioshack/product/detail.do?itemId=2102788&categoryId=&path=catalog%20# Three years later, the blower motor is still running on all speeds. Worth a shot for $1.99 + tax.

http://www.barrett-jackson.com/application/onlinesubmission/lotdetails.aspx?ln=148&aid=523

Regarding the A/F meter, you can either go with a narrow or wide band unit. The wide band is easier to read, but cost nearly 3X as much as the narrow band unit. Also, the wide band provides 0-5 VDC analog output that is useless for the Jeep HOs as the ECU operates on a 0-1 VDC signal. The AEM wide band A/F meter that I looked at does provide a 0-1 VDC "mimic" signal based on the 0-5 VDC it operates on that they claim is okat to use for the ECU, but then they recommend a separate 0-1 VDC O2 sensor be dedicated for the ECU. I've also read that this "mimic" signal isn't always correct and can cause rich or lean conditions. So if you use a wide band O2 unit, you will need to weld on an extra O2 bung on the header for the 0-1 VDC O2 sensor. I opted to use the narrow band meter, and it's easy to read once you get the hang of it. It will tell you all you want to know; rich/lean mixture and show loop transitions.

NOW I remember. :idea: Way to go Pete.

Big Valley?

Yes, probably a cheap "offshore" flaring tool if it's tightened hard as you can get it and still slips steel lines. My original el-cheapo tool works great on copper, but strikes out on steel lines most of the time. Invested in a Rigid tool (slightly used from Ebay) and never had that problem again. And agree with Frank above on the use of compression fittings on the low-pressure tranny coolant lines.

Do you have a multimeter? If so what's the ohms reading between the sensor brass shell and ground, then the reading between the sensor brass case on the wire you terminated on the output terminal going to the temp gauge? Sounds like the wire you installed from ground to the sensor shell is err, finicky.

Confucius say: Don't ever buy a Mopar product from a Ford dealership, A GM from a Mopar dealership, or a Ford from a GM dealership, or any combination thereof. Buy a Ford from a Ford dealer, Gm from GM, and Mopar from Mopar. Happy vehicle owners stick with the same company to trade in. Unhappy owners try something different.

Where did you find the plug? On the exhaust manifold? Or elsewhere? Also, did you locate the 3-pin harness connector that the O2 sensor plugs into?

Not ideal, but quick: Use a small adjustable hose clamp (like in ParadiseMJ's picture) around the body of the sensor. Either strip a bare wire and shove it under the clamp before tightening, or crimp a terminal lug under the clamp adjustment screw and attach the wire there, then tie the other end of the wire to a good ground point. The temp gauge should start indicating then.