HOrnbrod

Have to crow a little tonight, hope y'all don't mind too much. :yes: Daughter #2 graduated last week from her ten months of ABM (Air Battle Manager) training at Tyndall AFB, FL. First in the class, and she was the only female to make it through. She also got promoted to O2 (1st LT), got her wings, and started earning flight pay. She has a little time off now, then will report to Tinker AFB, OK in August to start flying for parts unknown as the ABM on an E-3 Sentry (AWACS) aircraft. Needless to say I'm quite proud of her.

Okay, definitely sounds like a bad alt then. Next step is to pull it off and get it rebuilt or replace it.

Yep, George and Richard Prior were my all time favorite stand-up comics. Both were druggies, both were lewd, crude and socially unacceptable, and both were extremely funny. :hijack: Oh, and OP, no worries. We don't usually highjack threads this badly. :yes:

You mean Al Sleet? Just coincidence Jim. We don't even have a morning newspaper in this one-horse town. :yes:

Around here it's $30-$50 to shave the head and about $150 for a valve job. Since you're doing this because of overheating, for sure I'd shave the head. If high miles, have the shop check the valves carefully and you may or may not want to the valve job too depending on condition.

No, it's Al Sleet. :yes:

If it's an 87 the alt is internally regulated, so the regulator unit could be bad. It can be changed as well as the brushes. Also, have you had your battery load tested? Maybe it has a bad cell and won't take a full charge. Make sure all your mains cables are tight and clean too. Measure the charging voltage across the battery terminals.

Yeah, I'm not understanding this either. Something's incorrect or the frame is twisted. Everything should line up using the correct cross-member mounting hole set and tranny adapter.

What year and engine?

Looks like it will be too wide. If not, post up a pic.

Instead of worrying how it would look, I'd be contacting the seller for measurements. If I wanted it. Which I don't.

:agree: About 25% more CCA than standard group 58, and usually the same price. The group 34s replaced the 58 in the late model XJs.

Agree with the 95XJ. 92-94XJs are okay too. Forgot about the 96's airbag.

That's the only difference, the end caps, plus they were not drilled for the plastic license plate light guards. The Laredo bumpers were all that were left 2-3 years ago that I could find. Grabbed three of them.

Jim, why so many braces on the 2.5? They also have that little shock absorber brace on top too, right? Never had a 2.5; are they prone to vibes?

3" or 4" lift on the front with the rear at stock height will look ridiculous. That's my opion.

The plan is sound, but I'd opt for a 95XJ donor. The 96 was the first year for OBD2, and they could be problematic electrically.

I had a 65 Falcon Sprint for years. Great cars and plenty fast with the 289 V8. Except when it rained because the rear end would spin out easily. I did always prefer the original 63 body style with the Sprint package though. Never could find one that wasn't rotted out.

Johnson Controls makes Sears, Interstate, Duralast, and many other batteries. They also own Varta, Optima, and supply Ford, Diamler Chrysler, Honda, Toyota, Nissan, and Isuzu with original equipment batteries. So buy a Johnson Controls battery at the best price you can find. :yes:

You shouldn't, as long as you measure it right and get it balanced. Might as well replace the u-joints too since their operating angles will be changed due to the lift. Sometimes they don't like that and driveline vibes can occur.

Did all your overheating problems start after you swapped in the AW4? Here's some overheating checks I had bookmarked, especially for the water pump. I've seen H20 pumps come off with the pump vanes rusted almost off on a few vehicles. Try the ones in BOLD; you've done all the rest. :yes: With the engine off and the fan belt and shroud removed, grasp the fan and attempt to move it in and out and up and down. More than 1/16 inch (1.58 mm) of movement indicates worn bearings that require water pump replacement. To determine whether the water pump is allowing for good circulation, warm up the engine and run it at idle speed. Squeeze the upper hose connection with one hand and accelerate the engine with the other hand. If a surge on the hose is felt, the pump is working. Any air being sucked into the cooling system is certain to have a detrimental effect. It cuts down pumping efficiency and causes both rusting and wear at a rate approximately three times above normal. To test for aeration, have the engine fully warmed up, all hose connections tight, and the coolant level up to normal. Attach one end of a small hose to the radiator overflow pipe and put the other end into a jar of water. Run the engine at a fast idle. If a steady stream of bubbles appears in the jar of water, air is getting into the cooling system. Check first for a cylinder gasket leak by running a compression test. If two adjacent cylinders test low, the gasket is bad. Otherwise, there is an air leak somewhere else in the cooling system.

Nice. That's the most FCs I've seen gathered together. They all look good too. :thumbsup:

Just invest in a regulation FSM. It's all in there. You know you need one. :thumbsup:

Yep, I'm thinking my A/C system isn't factory. I bought it from the original owner, so maybe it was dealer installed when he bought it, also called "American" A/C. The 91 parts manual shows the same compressor as Mike's (fiatslug87) posted images for factory A/C. :hmm: Well, always good to learn something. A/C still works well, still using the original R12. Just have to give it a jolt every other year or so.

The parts manuals say it was used up to the 1999 XJs. I'm thoroughly confused now........ And I hate when this happens...........