HOrnbrod

The horn relay is behind the lower dash panel in front of where your right knee is. You should hear it click when applying a ground by pressing the horn button on the column. If you hear the click, the relay and horn button are okay. Sometimes the relay connector comes loose, and sometimes the internal column that rides the flexplate gets so corroded it doesn't make the ground circuit. First thing check the relay connector, then pull the wheel and check out the flex plate and horn button contact wire. It lives in a white plastic insulator with a spring on it like a ballpoint pen. http://comancheclub.com/topic/30900-new-steering-wheel-install/?hl=horn&do=findComment&comment=312469

Are you referring to the MJ rear sway bar? The MJ ADDCO front bar is 1-1/8" dia.; the rear is 7/8" dia. http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/jeep/

It's always a good practice to bench bleed a master cylinder before installing, especially if it's a new dry unit. However when I did mine I used a "previously owned" master with no bench bleeding and had no problems.

Great score. In case you don't get lucky, keep Greyhound PackageExpress in mind. These would be ideal for them to ship wrapped up in bubble wrap. I've shipped hoods, roll bars, etc. and they are inexpensive. The maximum weight per package is 100 pounds. The extreme measurements of length, width, and height shall not exceed 30" x 47" x 82". Do these fenders qualify size-wise?

You're a strange troop Ben of the North. :thumbsup: I'd rather cut the grass than watch anything with Adam Savage in it, and I hate cutting the grass. Jamie Hyneman is cool though.

The 1/2" holes are there but if your rig didn't have a factory skid there were no mounting weldnuts in the frame. I used 5/16" nutserts when I mounted mine. Got them here plus the $7 install tool. Worked well. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/nutserts.php

I can put up with 30 seconds of removing the right wiper arm to open the hood fully when I need to. I think it's funny that someone can tolerate poor fitment. That's very annoying. I wouldn't put up with it as there is no cure and most glass hoods flat don't fit right. To each his own. This would drive me INSANE spending $$ on junk the doesn't come close to fitting. The Reflexxion cowl hood fits the body seams as well as a stock hood. Mostly I leave the right wiper arm off unless I need it, and you can pop it on stupid easily. Hood vents IMO do little for engine cooling, but look cool in some applications, as long as the H2O entry isn't excessive.

She is truly beautiful and I'd recognize that Olds grille anywhere. My Grandpa was similar to yours in vehicle tastes except his was a 48 4-door. First car I ever drove by myself when I was 11 years old. A worthy thread hijack and a great story. Best wishes getting this rare Series 66 fastback roadworthy. :cheers:

Well, it's, ah, practical. Might be better to use deluxe stainless vents and hardware from Lowes though.

It turns out they are not broken at all. The pins are turning because the nuts on the bottom have backed off and they are loose. Of course I can't get at the pin top to hold it w/o moving the axle up. I think if I loosen the ubolts one side at a time and let the springs expand a little it might create enough tension on the pins so I can tighten the nuts back up. If not I'll have to raise the axle up. Probably do that anyhow since I have to remove the 3* shims that I don't need there. Note to myself: Next time you install new leaf springs TIGHTEN UP THE CENTER PINS BEFORE INSTALLING! Feel like a dumbazz..

What's that gorgeous creature peeking out of your garage? Late 40s Olds?

Give these guys a call and ask about the suction hose. I've used them in the past for A/C parts. http://www.jeepair.com/

No matter. I'm enlisted retired Navy, and have one daughter 2ndLT Army, the other one 2ndLT USAF. I call them shipmates too. :cheers:

Convinced me doc_chinn. Welcome aboard shipmate.

Yes, get a 91 or 92 if possible. Easier to work on, easier to find parts, and much more reliable. You will hear some noise from the antiquated Renix aficionados, but don't believe it. None of it is true. But we all get along - as long as it's MJ. :cheers:

Then post the pics up.

30 years old here. PPE?

:yes: That's highly unlikely as it uses a 12 VDC @ 1000 mA power cube. That's only 12W of power. The average household refrigerator uses about 8KW per hour.

I've been using an old Zoom Modem/Router for years, model 5590 X6. I have the manuals but they say nothing about power consumption. I don't have a temp gauge on it, but it feels like at least 120* coming from it. It's still hanging in there.

No module in the HOs Charlie. The timer is controlled by the ECU. :thumbsup: Of course, I'm sure the OP knows this.........

Happy you have such a high opinion of yourself. In that case solve your own problems w/o bothering us here on this forum. Take a hike. :waving:

Factory warrantied reinforced part slam tested probably a million times during R&D development before placed into production. No comparison to one-off handmade product.

Fiberglass. There are a few places around still making glass XJ hoods (and cheaper too), but no more steel cowl hoods. The fiberglass hoods eventually crack from movement and usually don't fit too well. Glass is okay for stationary fenders and side body panels, but not real durable for use as a moving part.

And where might that place be?

American A/C is dealer installed. If a customer wanted one of a dealers offerings w/o A/C, they could pay the dealer to install an A/C kit. Very common back in the day, and usually cheaper than the factory A/C. Kinda like sunroofs. Most of those were dealer installed.