HOrnbrod

The Comanche MJ fuel sending units will not work in a Cherokee XJ fuel tank or vice-versa. They are constructed differently; mirror images of each other. Also the polarity of sender's output signal wire to the fuel gauge will be opposite; the change year was 1991. So if you are swapping the MJ Renix dash to the 93 XJ, you will need to use a 1990 or below XJ sending unit in the 93 XJ fuel tank so your fuel gauge will read correctly.

Give it a thin coat of Vaseline before tightening the lock plate.

Yes and yes.

Bummer. Was that a new flexplate? And no, I've never seen any performance flexplates for the AW4 / A340 transmissions, and I've looked.

The factory part number for the 87-89 hub assembly is 53000228. That crosses to the Autozone p/n 513107. So maybe you do in fact have a 1990 or newer axle. See if you can find an 8-digit p/n beginning with 5300xxxx on your old hub. Sometimes it's stamped, sometimes it's not.

:thumbsup: Sounds good.

Yep. But as soon as someone posts to another sticky below it, it gets bumped down. I want it to stay on the top.

Bump to the top.

Not if I see it first. :yes: Looks like a pathetic XJ gasser.

Thanks to daking for pointing out this very effective mod in his Dec 2015 MJOTM writeup. :thumbsup: So effective I did it myself and thought it belonged in the DIY forum. Exhaust manifold and header cracking due to engine vibration is a common occurrence with Jeep 4.0 engines. Mopar finally came out with a TSB incorporating flex joints in the stock exhaust manifolds and elsewhere in the exhaust system for certain models (after they made a fortune selling new manifolds), but that didn't help those with aftermarket performance exhaust headers. Great insurance to prevent this stress cracking is the installation of a 2.5" x 4"-6" flex joint that absorbs engine vibes that cause cracks in exhaust system components over time. Simple to do, inexpensive, and very worthwhile. I installed mine after the header collector elbow where the pipe crosses over under the engine. The closer to the header collector/ manifold you can get it the better.

That's a 6-pin connector and only five wires are used. According to my parts manual the same connector is used on the 91 XJs. If you are unsuccessful finding the exact connector, you can splice in a male / female 5 or 6 pin weather pack or similar connector set.

What are the specs of your Comanche? That would be the first thing. Have you done any searches at all? There's a lot of info out there for you to read up on. Obviously not.

What's the problem?

Buckets or bench? Are you referring to the B-pillar seat belt assembly?

No way it will fill the road bike void mate. But have fun with it. :thumbsup:

Yes.

Look at #12 and #13 in this link: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48463-cruisers-mostly-renix-tips/

Of course it matters. An axle shim is a steel (don't get the aluminum ones) wedge that goes between the axle spring plate and the spring. For SUA if you want the pinion snout to go down (decrease the pinion angle) you install the thick end toward the rear. To raise the snout reverse the shims with the thick end to the front. After my lift, I had to use 3* shims with the thick end facing the rear to lower the pinion snout back down to about a degree below parallel, because the pinion rotates up under acceleration. The goal is to have the tranny/tcase and the axle pinion shaft on the same parallel plane when driving. If you are SOA the shims are installed in the opposite direction as for SUA. You can determine how many degrees you need to rotate the pinion snout up or down by using an angle finder. What's your current pinion angle? EDIT: And no, it's not stupid figuring out what degree shims you need and which direction you need to rotate the axle to get pinion angle right. It is confusing. :thumbsup:

Ebay charges a 10% final value fee, plus a ~10% fee on the shipping charge you post in the auction. So set your prices accordingly. Ebay is fine if you do that to compensate for their fees, and you reach many more potential buyers than any other method.

Gene, use Cruiser's tips - I didn't notice you had a Renix. The HO distributor is a completely different animal.

Indexing the HO 4.0 distributor is the alignment procedure performed to install a distributor correctly as I understand it. This involves rotating the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke, turning the oil pump shaft slot to accept the aligned distributor shaft, and making sure the rotor is pointing to the correct position relative to the distributor housing. Lots of write-ups are available online detailing this procedure. I've done it many times, it's a straightforward procedure, and I can't remember getting it right the first time - I'm always one tooth off retarded or advanced. So perhaps I'm retarded. :doh: The timing is fixed and not adjustable on the stock distributors without machine work. But it's very important to get the indexing right so the ECU can dial in the timing based on the engine setup. One tooth off is unsat. I run a mild grind Hesco cam on the stroker, and whenever I make distributor changes like a newer distributor or even a new sync sensor, cap or rotor, I throw a timing light on it and check the timing at the marks on the timing chain cover and harmonic balancer to make sure it's in the ballpark. It's always a bit retarded less than the 14-16 degree BTDC ideal at first, then after driving it a few miles the ECU corrects it up to about 16-18 degrees BTDC because of the cam. Distributor "indexing" IMO is a term carried over from the old mechanical points distributor systems when the timing was set by rotating the distributor housing to advance or retard the point's dwell setting.

^^ Nice pic Mike. Are those yours?

What pedal assembly did you use? The 91 and up XJ/MJ pedal assembly? If so, the booster rod eye slides on to a pin (#13) on the brake pedal circled in red in the drawing below. In looking at your pic above, it does not.

Sounds like your MAP sensor is forcing closed loop operation. To test, make sure the vacuum line to the MAP sensor is connected and not broken, then test the MAP's in and out voltages:

Isn't that another name for the Renix system?