HOrnbrod

Did you ohm out the glow plugs? If any tested bad, grab THESE on Ebay. These are correct for your diesel and are a steal at the price.

The car is amazingly complete - looks like everything is there. Going to be a fun project.............

I thought you were done with plastic.

I got them HERE John, but I don't know if they will work with the "pin" type original wiper arms. They work fine with the J-hook 97+ arms.

Dribbles' looks pissed. Or is that the way he/she always looks? :yes: You're off to a great start on your Grandfather's truck. :cheers:

How to post pictures

:drool: :drool:

:rotfl2: Could very well be John.

I love how this guy re-purposed leftover scrap wood from the building to construct the stunning cab back wall. Wonder if he'll put a slider window in there or leave it open for natural air conditioning.

Glad you fixed it. Who's Lee?

Passenger front (Passenger from - sic) side, I'd ASSume...............

That would make a great how-to for the DIY forum. :cheers:

Thanks daking - I'll get 'er done. Should have done it years ago but never thought of it until I saw your pics. Yep. it's a speaker magnet. I've been using them on the oil and tranny pans for years. :yes:

I agree with this somewhat but I don't think they had much choice. Back in the mid-eighties compact pickups were super hot sellers. The GM S10 / S15 and Ford Ranger pickups were selling like hotcakes along with the foreign Nissan/Datsun and Toyota offerings. AMC conceived the Cherokee-derived Comanche in an attempt to grab a piece of the action. And it did pretty well at first, especially after the 4.0 engine became available. Then other manufacturers came out with variances like extended cabs, more powerful "sporty" versions, and everyone was doing pretty well. By then AMC was dying, and because of economics they never could never offer more than the original LWB/SWB/2WD/4WD versions with only two engines to pick from. So the Comanche eventually stopped selling and died, and soon thereafter the compact truck market died out all together. They (AMC then Chryco) did what they could with limited resources, so I give them kudos for that.

I've never an extended cab MJ, or anything else, that looked good. Even the factory efforts. They are built to serve a purpose, a special requirement, not to look good. I think they all look like crap, especially with the older boxier styling.

Lots of great work on your truck mate. :cheers: The 6" flex you used where the exhaust pipe after the 90* bend and crosses over to the right side looks like just what I need. On the end of my header is a triangular collector right where the upper weld is on your header. Bolted to that is a 2.5" elbow, then the exhaust crosses over and is rigid all the way back using rubber hangars into a single inlet/dual outlet 2.5" muffler, then dual pippes alll the way back The problem is I can't keep the collector flange bolts tight and I'm tired of constantly tightening them. Is that why you originally used the flex piece? Do they leak at all - I've never used one. Image Not Found

Hmmm. Good idea. Last I heard the Renix pump doesn't ground at the tail lamp.

Caution - Thread Hijack: onlyinajeep726, did you ever finish up the handbrake conversion? Writeup anywhere? Didn't see it in your build thread.

When I put my Mike Leach header on the stroker years ago I used the Dremel tungsten carbide cutters like below to grind out all the casting bumps and ridges on both the head and the header ports before mounting it up. The ports were essentially matched and I didn't have to take off a lot of material; this was more for grinding then polishing with a Dremel sanding drum. It took off the head material with ease, but I had to use maybe a half dozen of them.

Huntsville area. :waving:

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^^ For sure.

Seems like mostly newbs use it. I guess they find a use for it. :dunno:

The OBD1 computer doesn't have an oil pressure input, but the 96 OBD2 does. So you will probably get a fault code w/o the sender hooked up. If converting to a mechanical gauge, you can use a "T" fitting and keep the OEM oil pressure sender and wire connected.

Check the vacuum line that passes through the front bulkhead near the battery to the vacuum canister behind the bumper. It's a common rubbing place that creates vacuum leaks.