HOrnbrod

You do realize that dielectric grease in a non-conductive silicon based insulator and should only be used for sealing connectors from the elements but never on the electrical contacts themselves? It can cause a connection to stop working if not all of the grease is pushed out of the way between the points of contact inside the connector. Using it on electrical contacts is a big MIL SPEC no-no.

gte636p, the OP still has the Renix system (I think), and you are OBD2 with your 98. For OBD1 and 2 the distributor only controls the cylinder selection and firing of the injectors. It does not change the timing. I think your initial power problems were caused by injector misfiring because your dist didn't line up w/o cutting the alignment for whatever reason. Did you ever try another distributor?

That's good. So what was the NAPA part number?

^^ I agree with a lot of that. The whole point of tuning is to provide the engine the best air/fuel mixture for optimum performance as close as possible for all driving conditions from idle to WOT and everything in between. The best way to achieve this is by monitoring changes to the A/F readings over these conditions using an A/F meter. The narrow band meters are a good tool for this but the more expensive wide band meters are much better. The tuning method(s) used to achieve the optimum A/F mixture over the power band is not important; it's the end result only that matters. To me an A/F meter is the best tool available for proper engine tuning, not manufacturer's "recommended" specs and values.

These are the only "low profile" type mirrors issued to the MJs throughout the 86-92 years. There are no others in the factory parts manuals. It is possible however that some dealerships had differently styled options available.

Too much room for error doing vacuum timing. I'd rather look at the timing pulses and read the advance on the 4.0 since the marks are there.

Did you ever put a timing light on it to see what the actual advance was? I have a Hesco RVOB6 cam in my stroker and it never occurred to me that I might have to advance the timing for it. It does run fine though, but maybe it could run better. I've got a spare CPS I can play with and make it adjustable.

Bad sync sensor........

The part number is 4638276 Fred. Still available on-line from several sources but they look like they are $25-$30 each. :eek: I replaced some worn out door pins on an old 93 XJ I had years ago using 1/4" stainless bolts. They worked great.

There's a way, but it's hardly practical......... http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how-check-trouble-codes-1990-4-0-a-62673/

Either the regulator cable has broken or become stripped (most likely), the fastener through the glass to the regulator has broken off, or the tracks are not anchored to the door skin at the bracket. You're going to have to pull the door panel and check it out.

Checking for fauly codes by using the ignition switch and counting lamp pulses is only for 1991-1995 OBD1 vehicle. Your 90 is a Renix system, not OBD1. Damn you Frank. :yes:

I hear you Ed. Every generation has their stupid automotive fads. A popular one when I was a kid was reversing the rear shackles. It was accomplished by jacking the rear end up and inserting a crowbar through the leaf spring shackle and pushing the spring down until the shackle flipped down. This effectively jacked the rear end up 3"-4" giving it a hella rake. It was free and we thought it looked cool. It also ruined the handling, made it ride like a buckboard, and sometimes stretched the rear brake lines to the point of breaking the brakes. :eek: Looking back it was stupid doing that, and the kids today will look back one day at the crazy things they are doing to their rigs and realize these were stupid things to do also. But when you're a kid you do stupid things and don't give a damn - we all did.

Sticking solenoid I'll bet.

Just curious - did you get the "birth certificate" for your engine?

Briefly glancing at ATK's website, they state the following: ATK VEGE tests almost every engine that leaves our factory. ATK VEGE issues a Birth Certificate with each engine that has been tested containing the Serial number, Oil Pressure, Water Temperature, Compression, and Testing Time. ATK VEGE averages 1.7 day delivery time plus FREE SHIPPING to anywhere in the United States. Translated, They test almost every engine to see if it runs. Read no dyno numbers. That's not good enough mate. :shake: Hopefully it will turn out to be something external to the engine and a simple fix for you.

Maybe ATK doesn't provide a dyno sheet, or even test run the engines after they build them - I don't know. I went with a Hesco crate engine 12 years ago (it had the dyno sheet) and never had any problems. How did you reset the Renix ECU? And what are the specific symptoms why "it just isnt running right"?

Who is the manufacturer? Was it a crate engine or stroker kit? If crate, did they provide the dyno sheet with the engine?

This may or may not help............

Shively Motors Inc, Chambersburg, PA 17201 and Petersons Stampede Dodge Chrysler Jeep, Nampa, ID 83687 both list 52003040 in stock. Give their parts dept. a call tomorrow to verify.

Observing polarity, put an ammeter in series with the battery positive terminal. Since you seem to have a substantial parasitic current draw, you should see a reading, maybe 200ma-300ma or so. Start pulling fuses one by one until the ammeter reading drops on the multimeter. This should get you in the ballpark of what circuit(s) is causing the amp draw.

Figured that might be the case. :thumbsup:

Do you have enough room to pull the tranny pan with the exhaust running like that?

When you turn your ignition key to START, it applies 12V to the small wire on the solenoid. The solenoid acts like a relay. It latches when it sees the voltage, and the starter engages. Do you hear a clicking noise from the starter when you turn the key to START? If not, monitor the small wire on the solenoid for 12V when turning the key. If you see 12V and the starter doesn't engage, the solenoid is open (bad). If there is no voltage when turning the key, it could be a bad ignition cylinder or ignition switch on the column. See here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48519-electrical-issue-in-the-steering-columnand-i-am-no-electrician/?hl=ignition+switch&do=findComment&comment=494107

Start reading HERE in the FAQS section. All you need to know.