HOrnbrod

The 91 and up oil filter adapter has SAE 3/4"x16 threads. This allows you to use larger capacity readily available oil filters, some of which are shown below. I normally use the ones in RED below: 5.178" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER AC-Delco PF2, $6.28 Motorcraft FL-1A, $6.49 Purolator L30001, $5.76 Napa 1515, $6.69 Wix 51515, $6.69 Mopar L-72 L-326, L-526, L-55, L-1007, L-138 Baldwin B118, $9.26 Hastings LF115, $8.73 Mobil 1 M1-301, $8.00 Amsoil EaO15, $18.75 Donaldson P550008, $4.21 6.93" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER AC-Delco PF42 Motorcraft FL299 Purolator L40017 Napa 1773 Wix 51773 Mopar L-526

For my 91- should be the same as a 96 IGN OFF: Oil pressure gauge is about midscale IGN ON: Oil pressure gauge drops to zero Sounds like the meter movement is shot in your OP gauge.

Missed the wire grounded part. :doh: Was the gauge sitting at 0 before the first start after the oil change, then peg when started?

IGN key to ON. Disconnect the sender wire and the gauge should go HI. If not, Touch the sender wire to ground and the the gauge should go to LO. If it does, the sender is bad. If it doesn't, there is an open in the wiring from the sender to the gauge.

Just copy in the YouTube url address w/o using the "link" button......

As you know well Eagle, we all use junkyard parts to save a few $$ when we can. It's hit or miss on used parts. You snagged a worn out ZJ box w/o knowing it's history, and it needed adjustments. Probably a rebuild too. I got one from a wrecked 94 ZJ, also knew nothing about it's history, but the odo showed 64K miles, so I grabbed it. It was tight and a lot more than a modest upgrade, and ideal for a street MJ. It did weep a bit from the output shaft, but a bottle of Lucas stop leak "fixed" that. :yes: So I lucked out - you didn't. A 10:1 box on a 20+ year old MJ or XJ is way too quick IMO on the street, unless there is absolutely zero slop in the steering, and I doubt there is an MJ or XJ anywhere that meets that criteria. Borgerson knows that, and probably doesn't re-man that ratio Saginaw box because of liability issues from moron inexperienced drivers running old iron.

The harness ground wire is attached to the bed with a sheet metal screw behind the left tail lamp. Did you disconnect it when you pulled the bed?

Check the harness ground behind the left tail lamp.

Especially on the LHD Export models.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1015349

According to the parts manual, yes if the transmissions match (manual or auto). 89-90 4.0's used the same ECUs. 53005429, XJ, MJ, 6 Cyl. Engine, w/Man. Trans., 1989-90 53005428, XJ, MJ, 6 Cyl. Engine, w/Auto. Trans., 1989-90

Some interesting observations from GoJeep's website regarding road crown:

That's correct - my bad.

Adding shims behind the LCA increases positive caster, so you wouldn't want to add shims on the right side. But since the L & R caster measurements are so close, .3* difference, I don't think it would do much good anyhow. But I would verify the shop's measurement with an angle finder, and it will also aid you in future alignments. Verify the caster angle by sticking it on top of the L & R upper ball joint flats in line with the wheel and check the positive angle. You must be sitting on level ground.

The "crack-prone" 0331 heads came out in 2000 (99+ on Grand Cherokees) and it took a couple of years to clean them up. So, yeah, it's very possible that a 2001 XJ had one of the bad castings. I had an 01 for a few years and didn't have any problems, but knew a few people with 01 XJs that did get a cracked head.

Pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and see if the pressure jumps up to 39-40 psi. That will tell you if the regulator diaphragm is intact and it's regulating. Do you have a vacuum hose that doesn't leak hooked up to the regulator? Pressure should read ~30 psi w. vacuum, ~39 psi w/o vacuum.

What does it read at idle when you pull the vacuum hose off the regulator? Pressure should read ~30 psi w. vacuum, ~39 psi w/o vacuum.

Tisk tisk, your national dysfunction is showing... If it were not for us, you wouldn't be eating eating turkey in October, the end of your harvest. It's a bit later here.

Should be fine, but "throw a set of pressure gauges on the fuel rail test port and see what you have." You can rent them from AutoZone or similar. Oh - and you did run the vent line to the new tank, right?

LINE-X of Trussville :thumbsup:

Okay, then what are the specs of the E2000 pump?

:popcorn:

The factory regulator and injectors will work with any fuel pump as long as it is capable of putting out enough pressure and flow rate for the injectors. In your case if you are running a 94 ZJ engine the pumps needs to be capable of at least 39psi out and a sustained flow rate of 21.0lb/hr or more. The regulator's job is to keep fuel pressure and flow consistent with the ECU's fuel demands no matter what pump is installed. So what are the specs of the ES2000 pump you installed? Or did you mean an E2000? Why don't you throw a set of gauges on the fuel rail test port and see what you have now?

:needpics: