HOrnbrod

Wasn't the AMC 2.5L engine carbed until 1986 when they got TBI? Should be pretty easy to find an 85 or below 2.5L carbed engine or the carb/manifold parts you need that were removed when someone upgraded their CJ or something to fuel injection, si? As I recall, the 85 and below 2.5 carbed engines had a simple one barrel Rochester carb.

This is the AMC dealership MJ parts manual that was used by body shops for estimating back in the day. It lists MJ parts only with decent diagrams that make it easy to find MJ-specific part numbers. Thanks to Brett (87Warrior) for providing the file host site. :cheers: The file can be downloaded by clicking below. When the document come up on the screen, click on the arrow pointing downwards at the top middle of the screen. Your download will commence. When complete, close the window. CLICK TO DOWNLOAD https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxA7oeMUGQ-2UTZhd1Y0TUVHR0d2MjFBUkNJU2hnS2loR0Rv/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-302738wZPxTRv-FRjjrlNA

I've looked at this before. The 91-00 covers will interchange, but there are differences. The earlier ones (before ~ 95-96) had the timing marks and boss. The later covers, after 96 I think, did not, but will interchange if you don't care about the timing marks. I like to have them as I slap a timing light on once in awhile just to check the advance and how steady it is. And according to the parts manuals, the 01-02 covers do not interchange with the older covers. Why I don't know. :dunno: Logic says the 4.0 covers should all interchange, since the harmonic balancers and timing chains did.

Si. But since then I put in a limiting strut so the cowl doesn't hit the left wiper post. It opens up almost all the way now.......

That'll work. :thumbsup:

Why did you use a PCV valve for the axle vent? The axle vent should be open to the atmosphere to allow internal pressures built up by hot gasses to escape. Depending on which PCV valve you have it is acting either as an incoming or outgoing check valve - not good. You should replace the PCV valve with a fitting open to the atmosphere both ways or you may have axle seal leaks down the road. Like this one or similar. Even a 1/8 NPT hose adapter fitting would be better than the PCV valve. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/60116/10002/-1?parentProductId=756432

Be advised that the 4.0 CPS mounting bolts are unique shoulder bolts and an all-thread bolt may or may not work. I wouldn't use them. These bolts hold the CPS at a precise distance from the flywheel or flexplate to read the pulses. You can get the correct mounting bolts here as well as other places: http://www.morris4x4center.com/mopar-screw-qty-1-6503520.html

Thanks for taking the time to do that. :thumbsup: And you're right - it's NQR for sure. Not Quite Right.

MIA.

Special thanks to weaselguys on http://xjtalk.com for the great info on Jeep 4.0 ignition distributors. CLICK HERE

Actually Gus hasn't had any balls for years. :yes: Maybe that's why he gets so pissed off every time some critter comes around in his territory. Either that or he's too stupid to have any fear.

That's about all you can do to check the HO coils. I've had several check good through the primary and secondary windings but didn't work at all. And they have never caused an intermittent ignition problem; when bad they all caused a no-run condition. There's no ignition module for the HOs. The pickup, or sync sensor, or camshaft position sensor, on the 91-93 distributors is internal. In order to change it you have to pull out the distributor, remove the drive gear from the shaft, and disassemble it completely to get the sync sensor out. Read major PITA. A nice upgrade is to swap in a 94-99 4.0 distributor. The sync sensor is a black disk and it sits right on top under the rotor, so to change it you don't have to pull the dizzy out. The 94+ distributor swap is pure PnP. http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=9111

Thanks guys, it's a copperhead; the eye pupil looked just like the pics of the northern copperheads I found on-line. The eye is like a slit, definitely not round. They are supposed to be very common here, but it's the first one I've seen in our yard. Gus is fine. He had it nearly dead when I pulled him off, and the little guy has killed many snakes previously. Mostly moccasins and non-venomous black snakes (racers I think?). And he loves taking on the snapping turtles that try to lay their eggs in his back yard. He won't tolerate any intruders. I think I'll cook him a steak tonight. :yes:

My dog Gus the Cocker was killing it in the backyard making all kinds of hellacious noise. Anyone know? It's about 2-1/2' long. Snake ID is not one of my strong subjects.......... Image Not Found

Skipping and misfire can be caused by a bad CPS. It's happened to me on my 91 - twice. It did not trigger a code either because it was intermittent. There's really no way you can test it on an HO except by replacement, preferably with a Mopar unit. Also make sure the CPS 3-pin harness connector near the rear fuel rail is clean and tight. You are referring to the temp sensor on the thermostat housing, correct?

:yes: Well said. Will do.

I might if I knew they would bolt up. Whenever someone says "I'll try to remember", it usually means they won't remember. :yes:

:rotfl2: :rotfl2:

Yes, saw that in the manuals, but somewhere from the dark recesses a memory brain cell is telling me that the front door mounting holes line up with the rear armrest holes.

:thumbsup:

I'm asking if the stubby XJ rear door armrests from a 4DR will bolt up on the XJ/MJ front door. Some of the lower trim level MJs had stubby door armrests.

It's probably the track bar, but could also be ball joints. To check them out, jack up one side just enough to slide a long 2x4 under the wheel from the side. Lift the 2x4 up and down while a helper is observing the ball joints under the truck looking for any play. Repeat on the other wheel.

Will they fit the front MJ/XJ doors designed for the non-hockey stick armrests? I don't have a 4DR XJ sitting here to try it.

No, I don't think it makes sense. I've replaced several D35 axles with new bearings / seals and it's never happened to me. The only times I've used a spacers between the seal plate and the seal was when converting to disk brakes to make up for the thickness of the rotor. Those spacers are machined to within thousands of an inch accuracy to get the proper preload on the seal. Maybe someone will chime in on this, but I'm at a loss as to how the seal shrunk. :dunno:

If you drove it initially for 2k miles and it was fine, something has moved, compressed, or wore down a whole lot to cause the excess gap between the seal plate and the seal. Most likely the seal. Did you do both sides or only one side?