HOrnbrod

True. Especially if you live in the rust belt.

You'll need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a set of gauges to adjust the pressure up or down until you get it right. Pull your plug(s) and look at the color - it will give you a hint of which way to go. You do mean the engine stumbles, right? Stubble is what you have on your face if you forget to shave. :yes:

I'd be curious too especially on the torque ratings. Looks like you've done a lot of quality go-fast work on it. Do it!

I'm not making fun. Wait! Yes I am. :yes: Image Not Found But you are right, a lot of specs are exaggerated because most folks don't bother with a dyno test.

Says the man with a 2.5. :rotfl2:

Not a biggie by any means, but I needed some light back in the camper shell occasionally when unloading at night and didn't want to run wires back from the cab. So I picked up a 3" X 6" interior cargo LED panel light from Maxxima (Model Number M84427-A, $12) and a cheap "offshore" 12V / 3800mAh rechargeable power supply on Ebay ($18). Stuck the LED on the cargo light cutout up front with 3M emblem tape, ran the wiring to the back hatch, mounted the power supply, then gave it a longevity test. In the pics below the LED had been burning for 12 hours and hadn't even started to dim. The switchable power supply charges up in about an hour, the LED panel light puts out a ton of light, and it looks like it'll keep burning for at least 24 hours w/o recharging. A simple inexpensive mod, and an improvement I needed.

It's an 00 intake, and thanks!

I got 5.03 (A-C) and 4.96 (B-C) disconnected, so yes, normal. How's the MAP vacuum line? Still have the original hard plastic one? Slap a piece of rubber tubing on in place of it and try it. I got rid of all that MAP vacuum crap and mounted my MAP sensor on the throttle body like the later models. That vacuum line is too easy to break and/or knock off when working in the area.

Maybe it's time to rent a vacuum pump and test the pin B MAP output properly....... Ignore all the BS at the end.

That would be a great place!! Maybe it IS a Renix thing. Let me know. Blower motor ground - breaks out of the cross-engine bay harness and is tied here:

Actually yes. The blower motor (and a lot of other stuff) ties to a an engine block ground point (Splice 12) behind the A/C compressor. I'll get a pic tomorrow if I remember.

Must be a Renix thing..........

Was the engine running when you were doing the testing?

I explained exactly how to wire the ground signal (not 12V) to the aux fan circuit to turn it on. It appears you did something differently. What it is and how it affected the backup lights I have no idea. Suggest you invest in a factory electrical manual specific to your truck. The ballast resistor relay's job is to switch the full 12V fuel pump supply voltage from the fuel pump relay used for initial starting to the ballast resistor after the engine starts. This lowers the operating voltage of the pump and makes it quieter.

Don't worry about the GM markings on the MAP body. I've seen OEM sensors with and without. Your MAP connector has three pins, A, B, and C. Pin A is sensor ground (BLK/BLU wire), pin B is the MAP output to the ECU (RED/GRN wire), and pin C (VIOLET wire) is the 5VDC reference input voltage from the ECU. To test the connector inputs, unplug it from the MAP sensor, turn IGN ON, and measure across pins A and C. You should see very close to the 5VDC reference voltage. To test the MAP output, plug the connector back on, start the engine, and measure the voltage across pin B by back-probing the pin B connector and a good ground. With the vacuum line hooked up to the sensor, this voltage will vary between ~ 0.02V to 4.94VDC depending on engine RPM and intake manifold air pressure if the sensor is working. An analog meter is best to use if you have one for this test. A steady or no voltage indicates a bad MAP sensor.

Linked in the DIY section under "Interior" in the master search index.

Thanks to Abovetimberline over on the http://www.cherokeeforum.com for this most excellent writeup. :cheers: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/

You're a skilled and talented guy Ben, but I think you're stifled up there and limited creatively. It's probably time to relocate to an area where you can write your own ticket once the word of your work gets out. Colorado comes to mind..............

The below is a pic of the brake light switch on your 91. Check it and make sure the push button is working and the switch and it's connector are seated properly.

The more I see of those rocker rails the more I like them..........

This "failure" was self-inflicted............. I got my discharge from the Navy at 22 years old, had a pocket full of money, and bought a nearly finished 36 Ford coupe with a 327 SBC engine. It ran like crap (carb was shot), so I picked up a new Holley 650 double pumper. Got her all bolted in, started it up, and it still ran like crap. So I decided to adjust the float levels, a common problem with the Holley carbs. To check the float levels you need to remove the plugs from the side of the fuel bowls and visually check the level, sort of like a rear diff plug. You know what's coming. Turned out the fuel in the first bowl I checked was way too high and the engine was still very hot from all the idling. When I unscrewed the plug, fuel shot out onto the hot engine. Of course I forgot to cover the surrounding area with rags, and...................... :dunce: WHOOOMP! FIRE! Panicking, I grabbed a garden hose and eventually put the fire out, but not before the engine wiring was all burned up, some charred paint occurred, and the windshield cracked into a million pieces from the cold water hitting the hot glass. My hair was mostly singed off too. :doh: Over the next couple of weeks I rewired the engine, got it up and running pretty well, then resold the 36 coupe with the cracked window charred paint and all. At a pretty good profit too. Then I went back into the Navy................

I'd sure love to see how a 4.7 Hesco built stroker would perform with dual Webers. There was a member, Stacks I think, who was building a stroker with Clifford go-fast stuff. Anyone know what happened to him? I was very interested in his build.

Looked up the non-MT springs in the parts manual and they have a retainer like yours with the bolt across the top. I think they will be fine, or you could use an aftermarket retainer that's all flat bar.

What springs are those? My MT springs have leaf retainers like the below. They don't rub or move .........

There are plenty of good write-ups on-line regarding swapping in Saginaw boxes; not difficult. Pay particular attention to Pitman arm alignment. You will have to reuse your MJ Pitman arm because the ZJ box arm has about 1" more drop. So you will need a good Pitman arm puller - rent-able from Autozone or similar. Also check out the steering box aluminum adapter shim between the frame and steering box for cracks / corrosion and replace if necessary. I replaced mine, didn't look so good, and used an aftermarket steel shim like the one below from IRO. Why the factory made these from from cast aluminum I've never been able to figure out.