HOrnbrod

Period correct. :thumbsup:

Well, the CD player crapped out on the bench, and I had to have it repaired. It needed a laser and some of the drive parts replaced. Stuck it in this afternoon. Had a little problem with the power antenna going up and down with the CD player OFF/ON button and It's working great now. Thanks for the extra bracket Adam, it also worked fine after a bit of tinkering. :cheers:

Driveshaft geometry I'd suspect u-joints especially if they are the same ones you had pre-lift.

The GS 1700lb MT springs initially netted me close to 3" of lift, eventually settling down to a bit over 2". To level it all out I used a set of OME 930 coils up front. It all settled out over time to a nice stance with a slight rake. I run 31" tires, plenty of room, and the ride and handling is a big improvement over stock especially with an XJ 1-1/8" sway bar up front and an ADDCO WJ bar in the rear. You will also need an adjustable track bar and a few shims behind the LCAs to correct caster.

First pic - those are illumination lights for the dash switches. They plug into the dash switch plastic bracket(s) if you have them. Yours could be blanked out. Second pic - there's a collar that snaps around the lighter housing that you're missing. The bulb holder snaps into it. Lighter not working is usually a blown fuse.

Go read up all about it on the Strokers Forum.

What makes them so popular is that they are plentiful and CHEAP, the main driving force behind 99% of most MJ upgrades. It took me two years to find an MJ D44, but it was worth it to me. And adding rear disks from a Ford Explorer or ZJ is easy/peasy and shouldn't be a reason for settling for the Ford axle. The Ford axle is a great upgrade from the D35, but so is everything else.

^^ Like Brett detailed - good writeup. I suggested using SAE bolts because the existing bolts are metric, and the next larger SAE would be smaller than the next larger metric bolt and save some nut material.

If you don't, send me the head. It needs to come back to Bama. By asking for thoughts about getting rid of your MJ you know you will never use it. :cheers:

Why don't you just drill and tap the existing welded nuts to the next larger SAE size if the nuts are still secure? That would be stronger than a helicoil.

When looking for something go to the DIY forum and look in the search index, it's in there.

Yah, that looks Renix. Looks to be in good shape too. To verify you can measure the resistance across the potentiometer. The HO senders are 105 ohms.

I like them very much. I have them also on the JK. :thumbsup:

Avenger! That should really wake up the 2.5................

No problem. :cheers:

Renix (Renault/Bendix): 86-90 MJ models, proprietary electrical system HO (Chrysler High Output): 91-92 MJ models, conforms to OBD1 standards

Yes, the copper foil is the gauge cluster "wiring" from the connectors to the gauges. If a copper trace is torn anywhere on the foil, you will have an open circuit and something is not going to work. Torn traces can be repaired by scraping the lacquer finish off the trace on both sides of the tear and soldering in a small jumper wire across the break. Also make sure the gauge mounting screws are tight as they are also make a circuit connection between the foil and the gauge posts. Try all that; if the fuel gauge still doesn't indicate you will have to replace the foil or cluster. I have plenty of HO gauge cluster foils and could send you one but they will not work on the earlier Renix clusters.

It's stamped on the discharge tube on the HO senders. The below is a pic of one of the NOS senders I have - they are all the same on the HOs. Check out the potentiometer. If your sender has the same potentiometer it's an HO. The Renix sender potentiometers were very different. Image Not Found

Very nice - they do look a lot better than the "regulation" MJ rear flaps. I'll have to check tomorrow and see if the needed rear flare studs are still there and not snapped off. Nice work. :cheers:

^^ Hey Adam, you should jump on those. :yes:

I'm might still use it Dirt. I do agree it's worse than terrible, but it's also super annoying. And anything that annoys that much is always a good thing.

The only way I'd get rid of my MJ would be if Jeep finally came out with a pickup I liked. And the only one I like out of all the "concepts" Jeep has rolled out over the years is the JK-based truck with two doors and extended cab. The rest of the concept truck junk are not trucks at all; they are just retooled cars from whomever Jeep was in bed with at the time.

The NTK 23023 O2 sensor is the one you want - same as OEM but cheaper. For injectors the Bosch 0280155703's (so-called Neon injectors) are good for a stock 4.0 running with the stock FPR. When stroker time comes you can use them again with an adjustable FPR to bump the pressure up 10psi.

Clean it up later means it's never going to happen. :yes:

Get the heated version...........