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I thought it was rope in rubber seal? Correct me if i'm wrong. Thanks, Mike

I'm 100% positive the P.O. welded the shock mounts on, they were horribly done and mostly slag (thankfully). I'm pretty sure it's an xj axle. I removed my spring perches and used the one's on the axle. I had to flex the springs each about 1/4" towards the outside of the vehicle to get the pins to slide in. Sometime down the road I want to find an mj d44. So, it is a d35, just not out of what the seller said it was out of. Mike.

I have 3 quarts of new 80-90 to go in it, it's empty now. It really looks like a dana 35. I've compared the axles for about an hour now, looking over each bit. I'll pop the cover off, I'm in the process of removing some welded on shock mounts that the P.O. put on there. I measured the distance from the spring pack to the axle that's in my jeep now and it is 1/2". the perches on the "new" axle are 1/2" tall from axle to top of perch. I figure maybe I just delete the lift kit's perches for now (even though they're longer front to rear to prevent axle wrap), then sometime in the future cut those off and weld new ones or the same ones underneath. I will pop the cover again to check that it is indeed 3.08 ratio. I'll measure the perch widths too. Thanks guys, Mike

So, this guy who sold me a "dana 35" is dumb I think. At least as far as I know. I picked up a set of axles out of an 88 Comanche or so he said. The problem I'm having is that the leaf spring seats are on top of the axle. My axle was originally s.u.a. and I have converted it using rocky road outfitter's s.o.a. kit. This kit keys into the spring seats. My question is can I swap just the center sections? The "new" axle does not have a tag on it which upsets me. I know my old axle is 3.08 ratio and the guy I purchased this one from said it was 3.08 as well. What do i need to do to reset the pinion preload? Also, if you can identify the axle it'd help. It has a round cover and a rubber plug vs my old axle with a steel threaded plug. The only other thing that I see is different is the outer axle flange on my old one has what looks like 2 crescents on it and the new one has just a 1/2" box. Any ideas are appreciated, and if I can mod this axle to sit pretty I will. Edit: My old axles tag reads: 53004770 3.08 605324-1 The stamped letters on my old axle are: 42968 305-8 REV N 11-01-87 The "new" axle is stamped as follows: 43225 237-9 08-29-88 Thanks guys, this is such a hassle. Mike.

SWEET! I was really stressed about this over the weekend. Me and my girlfriend were out of town seeing her family, so i didn't have much time to inspect the axles. I just took a good hard look and it appears someone tried to weld something onto the axle housing but it won't be in the way of anything when installed. Pretty stoked up now, I had him pull the covers on both axles prior to purchase so i could take a gander and they were both pretty dang good. It goes in today. Thanks again guys Mike.

Well, that's what he said. I didn't get those. I just today picked up both front and rear axles from a Comanche. Sad thing is, some pos cut the shock mounts off. Has anyone had experience with making new shock mounts?

I just split off 3 teeth on my ring gear in my rear diff. It is a d30 with 3.08 gears. I'm more interested in getting two replacement axles due to my front axle leaking fluid already. Let me know what you have. I'm open to most stuff as long as it can be done in about a day or two. I'm located in Portland, Oregon. Don't really want to ship anything. If I can find them locally I'll be much happier. Thanks, Mike

I've found a few "donor" trucks in the area. I'm mainly looking for both axles so i don't have to worry about the gear ratio. So far it's an '88 comanche pioneer or an '89 xj. Both dana 30&35. If not it'll be junkyard time. I also found a guy with a d44 rear and d35 front end. How hard is it to make that d44 accept my Comanche stuff?

Yeah, they're parallel. I pulled my differential cover today and found 3 teeth on the ring gear missing, sitting in the bottom of my differential. So, goes without saying the dang thing needs replaced. Unfortunately I can't find a dana 35 with 3.08 gears anywhere near me. I'll be parking it and scrounging the junk yards until i find either a dana 35 with 3.08 gears or a chrysler 8.25 and the matching front axle to swap my gear ratio. Pretty dang ugly situation. Just a ring and pinion is $167.00. I could probably buy 3-4 complete axles for that... Thankls anyways guys, Mike.

I'll check both, I do have a 1" t-case drop to make the angle somewhat better, but it's still not ideal i'd say. Update: Checked the lug torque, most rear ones were good to go, a few of the front ones needed about an eighth of a turn tighter. U-joints seem good.

So, on my way back from picking up my girlfriend today at work this new sound started coming from what i think to my best guess is the rear end. I drive a 1989 Comanche Pioneer 4x4 4.0 manual. It has a 5" lift from rocky road outfitters using a spring over axle setup with drop control arm pockets. Everything has been fine (less a misfire that happened about a month ago from low compression) up until now. I am quite used to my misfire sound coming out of my tailpipe, but this is something else. With the truck not in gear but rolling I can still hear the noise, it's definitely something new. Anyone had this issue before? I can only think that my axle is severely worn.

I'm really into that repair. I may copy that, but before my door won't close haha. Do you have the dimensions of that plate you cut out? Thanks, Mike.

So, while working with my interior lights yesterday I looked down and noticed the area around my door latch pin in severely cracked. If I wiggle the pin back and forth i can see the cracks open and close. It appears the body in this area has deteriorated to the point of cracking off. I can see no rust around this area and the passenger door does not have this issue. At 264k miles, i know this door has been shut, and probably shut hard for years. My question is, does anyone else have this issue, and if so is there a solution other than welding in a new section? Thanks, Mike.

I was messing with them at work yesterday and found out they turn on when rotated. But I took it a step further, got myself replacement led bulbs and wired in led strips to go along with them. It is seriously bright at night. Pics to come.

My dome lights have never worked in my MJ. I've replaced the bulbs and checked my fuse. I know the fuse block is getting power at the dome circuit. I can't recall if I plugged them back in after replacing the rear speakers, but they did not work prior to that either. I need to know if both bulbs need to be in and how to check my door switches. I also have 2 dc led strips i can replace the bulbs with once the circuit is functional. These are VERY bright when hooked up to direct battery power. I'd really love to have dome lights and if possible, led dome lights. Any information is appreciated. Thanks, Mike.