HOrnbrod

It will be a custom shaft as MJs never came from the factory as RHD vehicles. I'm assuming you swapped all the RHD drivetrain in from the 2000 XJ? Then you can either have the XJ shaft lengthened or have a new custom shaft made locally if that's doable in the UK where you live.

You are exactly right Mike, as usual. 86 models only. If you ever find another one, let me know. :thumbsup:

http://comancheclub.com/topic/47752-rear-shock-mounting-plate/?hl=reinforcement+plates&do=findComment&comment=487593

Reminds me of an El Camino. A car-truck. Only with a smaller engine............

Saw this on an MJ for sale on Ebay. An pretty neat alternative for straps in case the winch cable breaks. I'd prefer a 3-point mount though............

So you used an OBD2 96 harness and PCM with a OBD1 94 engine? Did you swap in new OBD2 sensors?

Jeep radios are somewhat unusual in that they have two illumination inputs, one for the LCD display, and one for knob illumination. The knob illumination is controlled by the dash dimmer pot on the headlight switch and is 12V ignition switched. The LCD illumination input is also 12V ignition switched, but it's a constant 12V and not controlled by the dimmer pot. There is also a constant battery 12V input that keeps the memory setting intact with the key off, and one 12V ignition switched input that turns the radio on with the key. When you turn on the key, the radio comes on to the same state it was when last shut off. So, it sounds like you have a wiring problem.

I think this is it on a 92. But I don't see this on my 91: http://comancheclub.com/topic/45983-relay-id-and-electrical-diagnosis-help/page-2

The illumination circuitry must be super reliable then. Everything (radio, gauge cluster, clock, etc.) runs thru that relay, wherever it is. I was looking for it because I thought I had a problem with the new AM/FM CD player I put in, but it turned out to be something else. Still would like to know where the heck it is. The schematic shows it as a standard Bosch-type relay. :hmm:

Hmm. Guess not............

You can reuse your existing pump with the newer brackets. I just grabbed the pump too since it was only $5 more. Since it was newer, I used the TJ pump, but either is fine. I put the quicker ZJ box on about a year or two later and liked it a lot more than the stock MJ unit.

I got the brackets at the yard along with the pump from a wrecked low mileage 04 TJ . Worked great with the ZJ steering gear.

Then I'd say UB fine using those shocks. :thumbsup:

The below is a page from a 91 FSM showing the illumination relay location for a 91 XJ/MJ. It ain't there, or if it is I can't find it. I ASSume the earlier Renix models are the same. Has anyone ever found this thing?

Is your lift completed? If so, measure the distance "at rest" between the the upper/lower shock studs (rear) and the lower shock stud to the upper fender mounting point. I'm assuming you are using the stock shock mounting.

Brilliant! :shake:

Did you try adjusting your throttle valve (TV) cable?

Code 27 (From NAXJA) It is probably a non-firing injector. You can do a very quick check to determine whether the problem is in the injector or the harness, by running the engine, and unplugging the injector you suspect is bad. If it's a bad one, nothing will change. If it's a good one, the engine will briefly bog, then recover. Now swap the connector that tested bad with its nearest neighbor, start the engine again, and repeat the test. If the same plug is dead, it's the harness. If the same injector is dead, it's the injector. Check voltage at the injector plug, and resistance of both positive and negative lines. This system switches the negative side, and positive is constant-on with ignition, supplied via a line with branching splices to each injector plug. The splices can go bad and give you low voltage at the injector. You should check resistance of the pos. line back to the connector at the coil, and the resistance of the neg. line back to the PCU. Injector 1 goes to pin 16 on the PCU. #2 goes to pin 15, 3 to 14, 4 to 13, 5 to 38 and 6 to 58. The positive line to all injectors is dark green/orange, and traces back to the ASD relay, as well as one of the pins on the coil/distributor plug. With ignition on, engine off, you should get a full 12 volts between the hot terminal on the injector plug and ground. If it's a bad splice, it might start out relatively good when cold, and deteriorate as it heats up. If you have a bad wire or splice in the harness, it's not hard to slice it open and bypass the bad part. Clearing error codes and removing residual memory 1. Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory. 2. Reconnect the Battery Cable 3. Turn Ignition Switch to the "ON" position but DO NOT start the engine 4. Turn Headlight "ON" 5. Turn Headlights "OFF" 6. Turn Ignition Key "OFF" The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

Yes, in looking it closely after I posted, I saw the left side dash indicator cluster and the console stuff. The argent and burgundy or porno red interior go so well together. Nice work and perfect period correct.

Damn, that's gorgeous Mike. :bowdown: Love the clock treatment.

As I recall, you are one of the few original MJ owners we have on the forum. I'll use a word I hate, but justified in this case, that is awesome. I can understand the kiddies sticking stuff like that in their dash, but not you mate. :cheers:

I've nothing against technology, but something like this in a 25+ year old MJ? :ack:

Just raggin' Gog. Your post was better detailed anyhow. :yes:

Didn't I just ask that? :hmm:

What was the original mother of the D44?