HOrnbrod

What is this "characteristic driver's side sag" to which you refer? Granted, I only own three MJs at the moment, but several others have passed through the Jeep farm, and I know a number of other people who own MJs. I've never once heard anyone complain about a "driver's side sag." Me either. It's not a "characteristic" at all.

https://www.google.com/search?q=renix+4.0+horsepower+torque+curves&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjglbKq98PLAhXDqx4KHQpuCSEQsAQIHA&biw=800&bih=466 Any help??

Hey I'm sure the a wrangler pick up would be amazing off and on road. But at € 101.204,00 for a 3.6 four door JK, of which € 60.000,00 are taxes, I just have to pass :yes: A Renegade with the 1.4 starts at just € 22.000,00. I may as well buy an SRT viper for the Wrangler money, haha. Good point - that's a lot of €. But don't forget the JK truck's resale value. :thumbsup:

Impressive numbers for the diesel trucks Dillithium. I was not aware there were so many diesel options for small pickups in the European market. Unfortunately we do not have those options here. Later this year GM will be rolling out 2.8-liter Duramax diesel powered Colorado/Canyon mid-sized pickups. Will be interesting how well they sell. I think they will do well. And I don't hate the Jeep Renegade/KL or the possible Fiat/Comanche, I just don't give a damn about them. To me they are just more examples of lame uninspiring vehicles that marketeers dream up to build as cheaply as possible and maximize profit. Yawners. They are not even worthy of hating. :yes: But if a new factory JK-based Jeep pickup should happen, I'd be all over it. Even if they don't call it a Comanche.

Sold.

More than backed by Fiat - if and when the Fiat Comanche happens, it will be built by Fiat. In Italy. And look and drive like every other nondescript underpowered Euro/Japanese small truck. A diesel version might be interesting though. A Wrangler based pickup will still be a Jeep and will not be mistaken for anything else. I guess I'm one of the minority who would like to see Jeeps retain their identity. Throwing a slotted grille on a Fiat isn't doing that.

To each his own. Dillithium, If you like Fiats why don't you get a Strada or the new Fullback when it comes out? Then you won't have to wait for the new Fiat Comanche. :)

Did you try the manual shifting test by disconnecting the TCU and shifting through the gears with the shifter?

?? The fuel pump runs constantly when the engine is running, it doesn't kick on and off........

The compressor clutch coil has a diode wired in parallel to it. The purpose of this diode is to protect the electrical system by shunting any voltage spikes to ground when the A/C compressor turns off and on. If this diode goes bad it could cause the A/C clutch to energize randomly.

Running a "big halogen" lamp @ 55W minimum, probably more, over maybe 30' of puny factory 18 AWG wiring plus the extra you have added on through multiple splices is a real bad idea. The factory backup lights were small 1156 bulbs and the factory wiring was gauged to barely run those at minimum specs. In order to use a relay on that halogen light you have, you will need to run a 10-12 AWG minimum fused new wire from the up front battery to power the load side of the relay to your new halogen lamp. Not practical. I'd stick a low amp but bright LED cube on it before you smoke the factory backup light circuit rather than run that halogen with a new relay..

You've gone over to the dark side..............

Good price! I paid that much also. Times two.........

They would look better with some small flexible edge trim bending around the outer shell. Would help fill in the gaps and seal better too.

Easy to check - unplug the A/C clutch connector or pull the clutch relay and see if it goes away.

MOOG K80035 Sway Bar Link Kit (1985-1997 Ford 350 Rear) http://comancheclub.com/topic/48447-sway-bar-end-links/?hl=moog+k80035&do=findComment&comment=493423

According to Rock Auto's site, yes. The Mopar p/n is 56002011

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/jeepwheels/wheelsindex.html

What are you driving? Edit your signature detailing the year, engine, etc. so we don't have to guess.

Try another gauge.

The fuel pressure regulator might be bad. Engine running the pressure gauge should read 31psi w. vacuum, 39psi w/o.

Bosch 69302 with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator running at 39psi and 49psi..

Damn, and it's only 15 years old too. :shake:

Do a search on Ebay for GM Turn Signal Lever . There are tons of them in all varieties; w-w/o cruise, w-w/o intermittent, etc. Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-ACDelco-GM-Original-Equipment-22510732-Turn-Signal-Washer-Lever-GM-D-/262296489414?hash=item3d1216cdc6:g:7soAAOSwe7BWxctC&vxp=mtr The levers themselves seldom go bad. The plastic multifunction switch inside the column that the stalk plugs into is usually the culprit that breaks.

You are correct, p/n 53002492 is the sending unit only so you should be golden. I still would throw a gauge on it later on just to be sure it's within specs and your regulator is working as it should.