HOrnbrod

I kept the bright trim when I had a windshield installed a few of years ago. It was a no-brainer for me. It's one of the little things that all MJs had originally that make it unique. And since it was chrome, there was no way I could replace it with an ugly rubber gasket around the glass. :yes:

Bore it! http://www.strokedjeep.com/renix%20t-body.html

:cheers:

I've never "texted" anyone in my life and never will because I'm lazy. And it's dumb. Texting requires more time and effort and I'm a slow typist and can barely see the keyboard. I do have a cell phone (the dumb kind) but never use it except when on the road. I use a digital camera to take photos and a desktop for the Internet. And my old fashioned landline telephone always works. I'm old and don't give a sheite. :rant: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

I'm not a diesel lover, but if I were, your install is exactly what I would want. High quality work mate. :cheers:

Which RR sliders do you have? The standard sliders or the supersliders with the rail? Supersliders on an XJ. Also super-expensive........... Super sliders. I'm more than happy with them after installing them in 2012, but they took a lot of muscling to get on there Thank. If you get a chance could you post up some pics?

Which RR sliders do you have? The standard sliders or the supersliders with the rail? Supersliders on an XJ. Also super-expensive...........

Most XJ/MJ senders have an AMC (10 digit beginning with 89) or Mopar (8-digit) p/n stamped somewhere on the sending unit. See anything like that? With this "tagged" p/n we can ID the sending unit.

USAF daughter #2 left the house yesterday heading back to Tinker AFB and is deploying Sunday to Al Dhafra airbase in the UAE again for another 4-6 month tour to help take out some more bad guys. She made O3 (Captain) recently and as such has more supervisory responsibility than her previous tour in the pile. We talked a lot, gave her the best advice I could, but it's a lot different military world now than when I was in. She's tough, has her head screwed down tight, and will do what has to be done. But me and her Mom will be worried until she gets back again.

30! Damn Ben, UB too old to move now. You and your lovely wife lives are nearly half over already. :rotfl2: :rotfl2: We had lived in at least six countries and a lot more residences by the time I was 30, and continued on until I retired in 04. The kids went to 6-10 different schools coming up in different countries and had major culture shock when we finally settled down in Bama. Wouldn't have done it any other way. Each place was an adventure for all of us.

Typo, my error and corrected. I run spacers on the back just for that reason, but not on the front as your rig has. I'm all for symmetry. In all things MJ. :cheers:

We're talking purely cosmetics here, but that's important to me too. I'm sure these sliders will do their job well protecting the rocker panel area. But they should look nice too IMO. Just because the frame is MJ narrower at the rear than the front doesn't mean they can't be parallel to the rocker panel line. And they need to be tucked up closer under the body with no more than a 1/2" gap. That's the way I'd like to see them.

The rubber is inside the outer skin. Trust me...........

They are wrapped in a rubber sheath to prevent vibration.

:doh:

HNT? :hmm:

Okay, understand it now now - thanks for the pics. Had not seen the Nates XJ slider pics before, and I assume their MJ sliders are the same. Instead of welding pinch rail C-clamps to the slider bar, maybe they could be separate with mounting tab wings that the installer could drill and tap the slider rail and set the rail as high as possible. Once set, then mark and mount the frame plates. Just a thought.........

Is there a reason why the setscrews have to be adjusted from the outside? Why not put the setscrews on the inside of the pinch rail clamp with the setscrew drilled and threaded on an angle so they can tuck up closer to the rocker so the clamp doesn't have to be "raised"? W/o seeing the pinch rail clamps in person it's hard to visualize, but they would look so much better tucked up close to the lower rocker.

I use the same "tool" to install the smaller nutserts; good to see that the same method will also work for the larger 3/8" nutserts. Bo, is there any way to make them tuck up higher and closer to the rocker? I'd like to install them with just about a 1/4" gap.

Also the co-créateurs of the RENIX system. I wouldn't touch anything they were involved with. :P

That's like saying it runs great but just catches fire once in awhile. :rotfl2:

The aux fan fuse should be at least 20A. They can pull ~19A on startup.

Mopar Heater Core 87-96 MJ/XJ Old Part Number: 56000049 New Part Number: 4713125 Good luck...

Possible causes: CCV system clogged, crankcase over filled, rings gone on a piston or leaking valve guides. Might need to do a compression and leakdown test.

What's a Honda style automotive relay? Got any specs? 4 pins. It's also used on some American stuff. BW4136. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/R4136.oap?pt=01646&ppt=C0094 Yes, I know it's a cheap 4-pin low amp NC (Normally Closed) relay. The standard Bosch automotive relay is rated at 30 amps, was curious what these things were rated at. Probably 20A max..........