HOrnbrod

Call me Cpt. Obvious, but the little guy went to a good home. :cheers:

I think I know who the Dirt-man is referring to. :rotfl2: Everything Renault has had a hand in design and engineering is weird, but I have to admit the knock sensor is a damn good feature. However one good feature doesn't come close to negating all the other goofy stuff on a Renix system.

The flying club ceased in the 80's. Very little ham radio anymore too as there is now an underwater cable from Guam with plenty of comms, cable TV, telephones, data access, etc. You wouldn't recognize it now Jim.

PM me an email address and I'll send you the full instructions for the Mopar cruise kit install.

Thanks Mike. Interesting. That's pretty impressive if true. The output has to be tied into the CPS circuit somehow I would think. I guess the volume of the knock sound determines how many cylinders will be retarded. I'll have to find a schematic of it's wiring................ Also, I haven't seen any way to test them, except by replacement.

Close, it's spelled Ennylabegan, mostly called Carlos now. :yes: You must have been a radar guy Jim. I was a government guy at the HQ bldg at the airport.

Was there in the late 80s, early 90s. I don't remember seeing you either..........

Did you have a freak cold front pass through Miami one night that you didn't know about? :yes:

Yep, I remember yakking with you and Pete back then when I was living in Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands and thinking about getting a Comanche when I came back to the States. Damn, that seems like a long time ago. :yes:

I know this sensor is supposed to tell the Renix computer to retard ignition timing when it detects engine ping / knock. But I've always wondered just how it did this. It screws into the block and senses what? (vacuum, pressure?) through the orifice? It has two pins. What is connected to these pins, and what happens to make it change ignition timing? On an HO you can change timing by physically sliding the CPS magnetic pickup on the mount so the flywheel pulses are seen by the ECU earlier or later, but how does the Renix knock sensor do it? It seems like a good thing to have, and I've always been curious as to why it or something similar wasn't used on the Chrysler system.

You have an HO; the aux fan relay is in the PDC as in your pic. The relay in the driver side fender is for Renix stuff. Provided the aux fan harness is intact, you can test it by either driving it until the temp reaches ~230 or so and see if the fan comes on, or by applying a ground signal to ECU pin 31 (or aux fan relay pin 5) as shown on the wiring diagram here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48804-electric-cooling-fan-issue/?hl=aux+fan&do=findComment&comment=496745

The stock driveshaft on 2WD MJs has an encased rubber sheath around the inner shaft that supposedly helps prevent vibrations. It looks like the rubber sheath inside has deteriorated and the outer shell has shifted. I've never seen this shift before. I'd take it to a local driveshaft shop and try to have it balanced. When I tried to have my original shaft balanced the shop guy said the rubber was AFU inside and he couldn't balance it. I think you have a similar problem. I ended up having a new driveshaft made.

Hmmm. I didn't know you had a writeup for that already. You REALLY need to peruse my website. :shake: Drama queen.........

:needpics:

You would need the HO pedal assembly also to use the HO switch.

The 95-96 master/booster is pure PnP only on 91 and 92 MJs. All that other stuff you had to do is only on the Renix junk., including the brake switch. And yes, the plate was for firewall clearance so you didn't have to beat down the lip.

Hmmm. I didn't know you had a writeup for that already.

I think it's #4 in the pic, p/n 34201348.

As far as I can see you've never mentioned what year and model your MJ is, and what you used for the new gauge cluster.

Those shackles are probably the reason the axle is pushed forward too much. Too long.............

Mine is 14V in, ~10V out. Check the factory ground behind the left tail lamp. It's a poor ground location at best, so it doesn't hurt to run another fuel pump parallel ground to a spot on the frame physically closer to the pump. Try a fuel flow test as detailed here: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Fuel_System/Fuel_Diagnostics.htm

Don't forget a flex joint on the downpipe if possible to help your new header from cracking.

I like the gussets on the ends for extra reinforcement.

Still no physical progress?

Yep.