HOrnbrod

This is what it looks like - I just got it. So, to plug it in I assume I need to remove the lower dash panel and the connector is behind it somewhere? Anyone know?

Hey Jim! You look like a stud man! Looks like you have a fine lady too. :cheers:

New one to me Bo, never heard that before with hydraulic lifters. Thanks - good info. :cheers:

Sounds like normal metal thermal de-expansion to me. Metal parts of the engine and exhaust expand at different rates when hot. The engine parts start cooling down immediately when the key is turned off, and the metal contracts at different rates. This creates tension within the metal and when the metal relieves the stress it sometimes creates an audible 'tick' sound. My engine does this all the time too.

I'd say yes for sure. The filler hose assembly is the same, but you would need another J-hook and strap, the 23.5 sender, plus the longer plastic shield under the tank if you use one. The metal tank skid is the same for all the long beds too.

To me it looks like the top plate of the sending unit is not centered under the lock ring, thus the right side won't lock down.

The parts manual doesn't even list an 18 gallon tank for the 87-90 longbeds, only 16 and 23.5 tanks. Some of the 87-90 shortbeds did come with an 18 gallon tank however. BUT, anything's possible.........

No one has done this, so you're on your own. Most anything is possible, so go ahead and try it. Oh - and you better get some tools first. :yes:

I also have 2.5" all the way back and tried a Blowmaster 50 series muffler for about a week originally. The drone at about 2200 RPM would rattle your teeth and it drove me crazy. I got rid of it and installed a Walker SoundFX muffler with a single 2.5" inlet and dual 2.5" outlets and ran separate 2.5" exhaust pipes out the back. No more drone. :thumbsup: And congrats on making E7. :cheers:

It connects to the back of the HVAC controls. #4 in the pic........... Image Not Found

It connects to the HVAC blend door.

I miss the hood pad. When I switched to a cowl hood there was no way to use it unless I wanted to cover up the cowl intake. That would kind of defeat the purpose of the intake. The pad makes a big difference soaking up engine noise. Losing your Blowmaster 40 muffler would also be a big noise improvement too. :thumbsup:

14mm on mine.

A 10:1 ratio box would be ridiculously quick on an MJ and super twitchy. That's a common NASCAR steering ratio depending on the track and on a relatively sloppy MJ steering system it would be flat out dangerous on the street. I'd consider going down to a 12.1:1 box for the street, but no lower. Even the steering gear manufacturers don't recommend it.

Thanks Mike but I just snagged one on Ebay. I keep a container of change in there and a lamp would be nice to have at night at the drive through. I've had quite a few XJs and don't remember any of them having it.

I read that an ashtray lamp is optional feature of our MJs and XJs. It's is tied to the dash illumination circuit and comes on with the parking lights. It can be dimmed by rotating the headlamp knob with the rest of the dash illumination lights. I don't have one of these and never knew it existed until recently. It's connector is supposed to be prewired in the dash harness and the actual bulb sits behind a hole on the left side of the ashtray cavity. Anyone have one of these in their rig?

Not trying to be a smartazz, but it's pretty difficult to tell what your operating angle is by looking at it. Invest in an angle finder tool and measure it. Most u-joint mfg's recommend no more than ~8*, but you can probably get by for awhile up to 12* w/o vibrations.

Pretty sure this is the one you need since it's for a non-tilt Saginaw column, the same column you have. http://www.ebay.com/itm/IHC-Scout-II-422311C1-Ignition-Switch-Sector-Gear-Plastic-Steering-Column-/261760203176?hash=item3cf21fb9a8:g:CUYAAOSw8d9U0rFW&vxp=mtr Another: http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/gm-buick-cadillac-chevrolet-oldsmobile-pontiac/rack09-non-tilt-sector-gear.php

It looks like you would lose some serious slide back room for your seat(s), si?

According to the parts manual, they vary between the tilt, non-tilt, and column shift columns. Which do you have? Tilt: 83510055 W/o Tilt: 83502610

Eagle, the steering gear you installed didn't have the tag showing the alpha code, so who knows what box you have if you can't ID it? I do have a 95 ZJ box with the correct alpha code tag ID'ing it as the 12.7 ratio installed (the codes vary throughout the ZJ 93-98 years). There's a very obvious difference on the road, like immediately obvious. If you don't notice it you probably don't have the right box installed. Dirty's comment above regarding "boost" may also have something to do with my results. I also changed out the stock pump with one from an 04 Wrangler, also a Saginaw TC series pump, at the same time to get the late model brackets for the 99 intake manifold install. I don't have the specs as far as pressure differences between the two so ?? This could explain why my results were much better than what you claim.

Probably because one fuel tank had baffles and the other didn't.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&searchTerm=temperature+sender&vehicleIdSearch=321080&vehicle_321080=1992+%3A+Jeep+%3A+Cherokee+Sport+%3A+4.0L+242CI+L6+FI+VIN%3A+S&vehicle_21290=1991+%3A+Jeep+%3A+Comanche+%3A+4.0L+242CI+L6+FI+VIN%3A+S&searchedFrom=header And the temp sensor with the "threaded stud coming out of the top" are for the 91 models.

Must have been referring to KJ's. :yes:

I've never seen or heard of a Big Ton badge John, just the decal on the rear window. :dunno: I've seen pics of the Big Ton decal on both window types also.