HOrnbrod

ON/OFF with the head lamp switch. Comes on with the other dash illumination lights - same circuit.

You heard wrong. All my turn signal lights, including the "Euro" ones on the front fenders are LEDs using the stock flasher. All the exterior lights except the two brake lights are LEDs. Even the head lamps. :yes: EDIT: Thinking back, I do remember that I had to swap one L/R pair of turn signal LED bulbs (in the tails IIRC) back to incandescent for them to work. I assume that the two incandescent bulbs provided enough circuit ballast to allow the flasher to work.

SCORE on the 44! :thumbsup:

Thanks - I was considering the Borgeson option. The V8 ZJ's had a beefier shaft too; I'll look into adapting that. :cheers:

http://comancheclub.com/topic/12217-ho-valve-cover-on-a-renix-40-update/?hl=valve+cover

True - forgot about spline count. I know the AW4 output count changed to 23 in 1990, but what about the input?

O-rings. You may be able to reuse the original. I've done it before with good results.

Could very well be this. The Renix and HO AW4 transmissions use different throttle valve cams. CAM PACKAGE, Throttle Valve 87-90 83504338 91-01 4637026 Good luck finding the newer cam package. Since the pump is fried and may have taken out other hydraulic parts with it, you might be better off replacing the tranny with a 91 and up AW4.

These Teraflex bars are over $200 now new. :eek: Way back when I got mine it was slightly less than $100 shipped. And I thought that was expensive. It must be nice to get one for free. Bastid......... :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

Another plus for this bar is that you don't have to drill out the axle mount hole to install it. Hopefully the truck you are installing it on it on hasn't been drilled out or the hole isn't wallowed out.

No idea on the Dorman part. I've heard plenty of people who used them with no problems. Or perhaps didn't even realize there was a problem. :dunno:

AW4? If so it sounds like the throttle valve is broke or mal-adjusted. Try this: http://www.allpar.com/SUVs/jeep/cherokee-transmission.html http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Transmission_and_Transfer_Case/Transmission_Throttle_Cable_Replacement.htm

http://comancheclub.com/topic/26803-an-plumbing/?hl=fuel+rail&do=findComment&comment=278825

One way to use AN's on the fuel rail............. Image Not Found

^^ Si. I have one on my rig. Teraflex Adjustable Trackbar, 1743022 Teraflex Adjustable Trackbar Bushing, 4313320

Which "RV" cam did you use? There are several mfg's for these and they have different lift specs. They are not all cut for low-end torque; some are cut for more mid-range. Hesco, Crane, Clifford, and several others all manufacturer what could be called "RV" cams. For instance I run a Hesco RVOB single pattern cam with a duration of 214* @ 0.050" intake and exhaust, valve lift 0.470" intake and exhaust, and a LSA of 110*. This makes for a lopey idle (that I don't mind) and good mid-range "grunt". It also likes a non-restrictive 2.5" exhaust exhaust. Same injectors and intake as you have, but it's OBD1. Some folks love the Crane 753905 dual pattern RV-type cam. The idle quality is the similar to stock in a stroker and it makes more low end torque. Bottom end is strong and lifespan is short on these cams from what I read. So the point is you can't lump "RV" cams into one category. Each has their own characteristics and affect idle and peak HP/Torque specs differently. All the mechanical stuff has to be coordinated along with a good profile matched to the intake and exhaust, or you just don't get best power. That's why I bought a proven crate stroker engine and added the peripherals based on valid dyno results. I'm not smart enough or experienced enough to figure it all out from scratch. :yes:

Nice writeup. I'd just like to add a note: I like to use genuine Mopar parts whenever possible, and the Mopar harmonic balancer p/n is 33002920 if you can find one. But in 1997 or so the part number was changed to 33002920AB or 33002920AC. If you use one of these later part numbers, the "snout" will be too long and it will not bolt down far enough on the crank to keep correct pulley alignment. The "cure" for this is to either pull the timing cover and remove the oil slinger behind the cover to allow the balancer to seat further down the crankshaft (Chrysler's install instructions), or simply get .020" machined off the balancer snout. I did the latter and it worked fine. This only pertains to Mopar harmonic balancers, not aftermarket units like Dorman or Pioneer.

Sounds like it might be time to break out a Dremel tool and "egg" out the manifold mounting hole(s) just enough to start all the bolts. Also place a straightedge across the manifolds' mounting surface to make sure they haven't been bent somehow.

I've got everything for the tranny and the cooler but still need to get the adapters for the radiator. Thanks for reminding me. http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/670520/10002/-1 File Pic:

Yeah Bo, I just put up those old posts for reference. I think it's a clone too. But it's a cool truck nevertheless.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/46567-comanche-espcial-editio-1988-14900-street-mj-51/?hl=unser&do=findComment&comment=475059 http://streetcomanches.zohosites.com/51-of-100.html

What's the cluster p/n? There should be a tag on the back with the p/n 8350xxxx or 898350xxxx.

87 thru 91

If the truck had a good engine I bet that thing would fly (for a little while) since about 50% of it's original weight has gone away........

http://comancheclub.com/topic/50405-aw4-floor-shifter-cable-routing/