HOrnbrod

33mm / 1-5/16" wrench will work. I don't have either so I used a BF pipe wrench - worked fine.

88whitecomanche is a fine club member who's done a great job with his truck. Keep the truck and stick around mate - I don't want to hear any more talk about selling your rig. :cheers:

I think that when you weld them in place, do the bodywork and repaint, they will look fine. :thumbsup:

They are fairly popular with the stroker folks as the 4.2 pan is slightly deeper than the 4.0 pan. Thus no metal massaging is necessary when using some of the the taller high-volume oil pumps.

If you eventually replace it, you can use one from the 4.2 with the bash plate. Bolts right on if you use the 4.2 sump tube.

Pretty sure it's #7 & #8, along with the four end pieces #15. Tough to find now, although the #15 end pieces would be easy to cut out of flat stock.

^^ THIS! Or any pre-1950 sedan delivery. But not the Hudson pickups. Ugliest trucks ever created - sorry Eagle.

:thumbsup: Then what you have is no decision required - a no brainer.

Agree, dump the Renix and go with the HO system. And if you use the 01 manifold (recommended) you will need the 96 and up power steering pump and bracketry + a new belt. http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?6355-4-0L-99-intake-manifold-swap-with-REAL-DYNO-NUMBERS!

OP, what are the part numbers from the diagram below of what you are calling "rear fender plastic liners"?

Do a search on Rock Auto for p/n 53005017. Look at the pics and see if that's your pump. It's supposed to be the one on the 2.5.

I got mine new at Rock Auto. They fit pretty well. CH1248106 {#55175009, Left} CH1249106 {#55175008, Right} EDIT: Just noticed you are looking for the rear liners. I've looked for those but have not found them new.

OME N40L (15.6"-25.8") Possible OME substitutes I know of: OME N30 (14.4"-24.3")* (96-05 Nissan Terrano R20) - I use these but you are 2" longer pin-to-pin than I am. OME N95 (14.13"-23.58") (Toyota Land Cruiser) OME 60002 (14.5"-23.1") (Toyota Land Cruiser) OME 60049L (14.4"-24.4") (Jeep TJ) These will work on the MJ but might be too short for you unless you can extend them a bit using something like the Currie bracket or similar below. Or call a Bilstein rep, give them the dimensions you need, and get their recommendations for a 5100 or 5125 series shock that will work.

Yep, no axle retainer plates in the D35 C-clip or 8.25, thus no need for the spacer for these axles. Cruiser's pics and Rockfrog's detailed text rang my bell - been awhile since the D35 c-clip conversion. Thanks guys for the clarification, my bad 100%. :bowdown:

I am 97+ everything so I don't have the old Comfort/Power switch :thumbsup:

If you say so.........

Thanks, sounds like I could use one too. I've played around with the throttle valve cable and it seems to help a bit. Gotta ask, you're not in the "Comfort" mode are you? The reason is that even though the dash switch is in the Power mode, if the switch is open - not working - it defaults to the Comfort mode.

All the axles converted from drum to disk brakes will need preload spacers for the wheel bearing seals because the backing plates are nowhere near the thickness of the caliper brackets. Unless you don't mind them leaking. :yes:

Disk brake conversion is the same process for both axles. The only major difference is in adapting the backing plates to your particular axle flange.

:hijack: Tell us more...................

Me too. An MJ coming and going on the same shirt would be nice.

No trimming needed. Mo betta pic:

Mine too. :thumbsup:

I'm also not a fan of kits that use one-off parts or wear pieces that aren't available easily, it will leave you in a bind down the road. Not even close to true. I've had the Teraflex conversion kit on my D44 for many years. The only proprietary Teraflex parts are the backing plates. The kit rotors are the same as the ~05 era Jeep Wrangler Rubis and the disk brake pads are from the ~99 era Ford Explorers. I replaced both rotors and pads at least once using the Jeep and Ford parts and they are the same. So all you need from Teraflex to build your own rear disk brake kit are their backing plates and the correct preload spacers for your particular D30 or D44 axle. The D35 non-c-clip and D44 use the same backing plates; the D30 c-clip axle plates are different. I did this when I swapped my existing Teraflex rear disks from a D35 c-clip axle to my current D44. IIRC the L & R backing plates were around $75/ea. and the spacers were a couple of bucks each.

30" HERE