HOrnbrod

Sorry to hijack, but is the cable there but just not hooked up for non-tach gauge clusters? There is no difference in the wiring harness (cables) connected to the tach / non-tach clusters. PnP for both. Only the external coolant temp and oil pressure sensors/switches are different.

Try these brake booster checks: Test Power Brake Booster If the pedal feels "hard" while the engine is running, the booster isn't operating correctly. If you suspect the booster is defective, do not attempt to disassemble or repair the power booster. Doing so is unsafe and will void your warranty. Test 1 With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster. Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4", this indicates that the booster is working properly. Test 2 Run the engine a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster. Test 3 Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight. Inspect the Check Valve Disconnect the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster. Air should not flow when pressure is applied, but should flow when suction is applied. If air flows in both directions or there is no air flow, the valve needs to be replaced. Verify Enough Vacuum Check the operating vacuum pressure when the engine is at normal operating temperature. There should be a minimum of 18 in. of vacuum. Vacuum may be increased by properly tuning the engine, checking for vacuum leaks and blockages in vacuum lines.

That's how the drag link is labeled by aftermarket parts companies and is correct. It's composed of three pieces, two tie rod ends, and an adjusting sleeve. The 3-piece drag link assembly for the ZJ w. the 5.2 engine is slightly thicker than the 4.0 MJ/XJ drag link, and the threads are larger (22mm vs. 20mm IIRC), so you can't mix the pieces. Either assembly will work for you, but since you are going with the ZJ stuff, go with the larger ZJ drag link too. That's what I'm using. Every little bit helps. :thumbsup: These are the Mopar part numbers for the ZJ 5.2 drag link. You can cross them to the Moog equivalents if that's what you are using. END, Tie Rod, 52037994 TUBE, 52037536 END, Tie Rod (Rt. Hand Th’d), 52005739

Are you talking out of a cherokke or another comanche? Either. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

Are there any differences between the military and civilian versions of the 6.2 V8 diesels Bo? Will it bolt right into the Chev/GMC pickups?

Thank you Sir! IB okay since it looks just like your pics. :cheers: I put the console in years ago and remember I didn't use the duct pipe that runs inside the console, and pop-riveted a block-off plate over the heater box discharge opening.

That's not overheating at all, as long as it doesn't go any higher. That's about where I sit when in stop and go traffic in the summer. While cruising it stays straight up right at 210*. Pick up an infrared handheld thermometer and verify the actual temperature at the coolant sensor; it will probably read 20* cooler. Mine does. The MJ dash gauges are not very accurate.

^^ This. You need to get the front air duct that came with the MJs and XJs with the full floor console to fill the gap up front. EDIT: And I'm glad you asked this question Siopposition, because I'm not even sure I have the right air duct on mine either. Can anyone snap a pic of how the floor console butts up against the heater box with the correct air duct? An XJ pic will be fine too.

I've hit several critters over time I've had to claim, including a flying buzzard that took out my windshield at 60 MPH and a crazed water buffalo in the Philippines that took out my front end. In all cases everything was repaired w/o a rate increase.

Genius has it's limits but stupidity knows no bounds. Platitude of the day.......... Noun: platitude; Plural Noun: platitudes A remark or statement, especially one with a moral content, that has been used too often to be interesting or thoughtful.

^^ I'd agree with this statement if the damage was caused by an accident in which you were charged with a violation and proven at fault. In this case the damage was from a no-fault cause and unpreventable. Any decent insurance company would not increase premium rates for that, especially one like GEICO.

Grab a spare or two, because it will break again, especially if they are used.

No. Even though the adjusting braketry is completely different, they both use this same collar. Even the long adjusting bolt is the same.

Bummer. There's lots or deer out walking down your way, especially at that time of the night. Sorry it happened mate.

^^ This. If in fact the adjusting collar is broken, they are readily available. I had to replace mine recently. This is what happens when they break: This is what you need: Available HERE and many other places. Part number 53002915.

http://www.northamericanxjassociation.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1105019

He's a member on the forum Jim. You can send him a PM. http://comancheclub.com/user/28204-lexington-comanche/

Exactly. My wife went through a few years ago. She went in as an outpatient around lunchtime and it was over in about two hours. They removed her gall bladder using laser surgery. She rested the next day, and the day after was back on normal ops. But she's pretty tough, a lot tougher than I am. :yes: Hang in there Eagle..........

http://www.morris4x4center.com/socket-assembly-without-lamp-5455853.html

33002920 is the old part number. Around 1997 they added the suffixes -AB then -AC to the part number. The one I got is an -AB. Those with the letter suffixes were "supposed" to be .020" longer to make up for the thickness of the oil slinger. The install instructions also state this. But I have read that installing with the oil slinger works just fine w/o removing the slinger, and also just as many stating that the oil slinger needs to be removed. Personally I can't see how .020 would make much of a difference So yes, go ahead and install it and see if the belt grooves line up as before and let us know. :thumbsup:

Makes sense.

http://www.allpar.com/SUVs/jeep/wrangler/2017.html

I admire your stick–to–itiveness Charlie and hope I'm wrong. :cheers:

Should have painted it silver. :yes:

After a quick search, the front seal blowing out seems to be a pretty common AW4 problem. And I couldn't find a definitive fix that lasted. In most all cases it looked like the "fix" was replacing the tranny. I know you have done a lot of work on that transmission, but maybe it's just worn out and it's time on earth is over.