HOrnbrod

The Jeep instrument clusters were made by Nippon Seiki in the 80's and 90's, and they probably made them for many other automotive companies too.

Yes, the 87-90 had blue plastic cases. Probably 86 too. Then in 91 and up they were white - again:

That's cool then. I know the 86-90 clusters had blue cases, then the 91 and up were white. Didn't know the cases before 1986 were white too. Learned something new. :thumbsup:

That looks like an HO cluster - white case. If so, the speedo, tach, and fuel gauges won't work on a Renix.

Revised and linked to the DIY A/C and Heating forum section.

What's a Drake?

Third pic down are the solenoid wires, see this thread for the pin-out diagram: http://comancheclub.com/topic/49156-automatic-transmission-won't-automatically-engage-lower-gears/?hl=solenoids&do=findComment&comment=500185

The lower dash piece has a hole from a switch that one of the PO's installed , which is a shame because it has no cracks whatsoever . Bummer. But that could be plugged with the correct size plastic plug, si? But I can sure understand if you don't want to break the set up. I wouldn't if I were you.............

Here's the parts manual data: CALIPERS (Same) 91 Caliper 4WD: 5252984-5 97 Caliper 4WD: 5252984-5 ROTORS (Different p/n's) 52008440, 1990-91 52007710, 1992 (Up To 2-10-92) 52008264 superceded to 5016434AA, 1992 (After 2-10-92) and up to 2001 So it looks like the calipers are the same, but the rotors carry a different part number after 1992. What the difference is I don't know. Maybe the offset of the old rotors on your newer axle is different causing it to not be centered between the pads. :dunno: You would have to compare the rotors side-by-side. From the p/n data it looks like it should all play together fine with the newer rotors.

Nice Adam-man. :cheers: Score !!

Okay. Did you then purchase and replace new calipers, rotors, and/or pads on the new HP axle? Or just bolt it in reusing the existing, hook up the brake lines, then bleed? Just trying to determine if you might have installed the wrong brake parts for your axle.

The author of the article stated that the 1986 Jeep Comanche w. the V6 and BA-10 was the "worst pickup ever made". I'm sure the fool meant it was the worst MJ ever made.

The only piece that's new is the radiator, correct? Previous to this it was not overheating, just a radiator leak? If so, I'd swap the old radiator back in for testing purposes.

What did your new Dana 30 high pinon axle come from?

Part number J4006964 superseded to 6035607 - still available from the dealer. Torx head. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-CHRYSLER-OEM-97-99-Dakota-2-5L-L4-Starter-Bolt-6035607-/151975824303 Or grade 8 3/8x4" UNC thread hex head bolts will work too.

If you don't, twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. - Mark Twain

She sure is. Going on thirty years now.

The factory p/n for those bolts is 34202158 if that helps.

At least I'll be cool while receiving the nagging as long as she doesn't lapse into Tagalog. :rotfl2:

Since I hijacked a thread previously regarding A/C R12 refrigerant unavailability and/or exorbitant black market prices, based on Nori's advice above I decided to give the Red Tek R12a refrigerant a try and start a new DIY thread. I ordered the Canadian manufactured Red Tek R12a Refrigerant Recharge Kit with Gauge from Amazon HERE. It comes with two cans of R12a, a can of stop-leak, a hose with a quality pressure gauge and brass fittings, and an R12-to-R12a fitting adapter for the compressor LOW side R12 threaded fitting. It also comes with an oil analyzer to check the oil for contaminants. My A/C compressor was working, sort-of. It put out semi-cool air just below ambient temperature but was useless when the temp went over 80*. I had not recharged or used my system in over two years, but when I hooked everything up on the LOW side I still had ~15psi reading on the gauge, so I didn't bother with the stop-leak since it held system pressure for that long. Adding R12a refrigerant to the R12 system: It's basically the same procedure as adding R12 except you must screw on the R12-to-R12a quick-connect adapter fitting pictured below (included in the kit) to the LOW suction service port first. The adapter fitting has it's own Schrader valve internally, so no gas will escape. The video below shows the charging procedure. Add refrigerant until the pressure settles out on the pressure gauge GREEN scale (~35psi - ~50psi). DO NOT overcharge; it can ruin your compressor. R12-to-R12a Adapter: I saw a procedure on one of the other Jeep forums where it showed that on the older A/C systems (Renix of course), you have to do a little grinding with a Dremel tool on the HI side fitting for the adapter valve clearance, or pick up an 90* adapter fitting like above. No problem for the 91's and up as the service valves are on the back head of the compressor and there is plenty of room. Recharging Video: It only took one can to get the pressure up to 50psi and took about five minutes to fully evacuate the can. Ideal pressure is 38psi-42psi, but I threw the whole can in so I didn't have to store a punctured can. The results were great; the vents blew ice cold air and it was just over 100* in the garage. Took it for a ride and it got even colder, and it looks like I'll only need it on half fan speed with the temp selector at mid-range on the HVAC controls even on the hottest days to keep it comfortable in the cabin. The wife was happy and now says she will ride with me everywhere since she won't have to sweat to death in my truck anymore. So maybe it wasn't such a good idea to fix it. :( Just kidding of course dear.............. The R12a refrigerant from Red Tek is about $12 a can, and even cheaper from other vendors, so I don't see any mega-$$ R134a conversion on my rig's future anytime soon. The R12a cans use the same taps as the R134a cans and the supplied hose has R134a compatible fittings on both ends, so R12a can be used to recharge R134a systems too. All in all, I'm very happy with the results and see no reason why they won't last. Well worth the money if your A/C system is still in good shape.

It's a simple float switch. A float in the tube rides on the fluid level. The switch arm is attached to the float. When the fluid level drops down, it "makes" the switch, and turns on the low level lamp. Just like the gas gauge "out of fuel" lamp.

The pump doesn't have the float sensor, the washer tank does. Since you don't mention what model you have, I can't tell you where to order the tank. Or you can get one at the junkyard from a well equipped similar year XJ; Autozone won't have it. Your truck is already wired for it, mine was, and the fluid level sensor just plugs into the existing wiring, just match the connector. The low level light was already in my cluster and it works fine. HERE'S one on Ebay, fits 87-91 XJ/MJ washer tanks. You'll need to cut a hole for it.

You might be right Adam although it sure doesn't look like a drain. Just found this pic of an Autozone ZJ 4.0 starter; now that looks like a drain. :hmm:

Good to hear. Thanks! :cheers:

I putting on a NOS Mopar starter tomorrow (old one needs brushes) and it has what looks like an electrical connector on the brush cup? I've never seen before on a Jeep starter. Anyone know what it is and/or it's purpose?