HOrnbrod

Unless the stroker motor has a considerably higher compression ratio than stock, the difference in amp draw will be negligible.

Invest in a Carfax.

:hijack: This question is for Nori. You seem to know your A/C stuff. My rig is still R12 and my A/C is still chugging along - have to add a can about every other year. Unfortunately I'm now out of R12, and this time I'm going to try a substitute, environmental friendly Red Tek R12a refrigerant. The manufacturer claims it's compatible with R12 and there are several positive reviews on it. Maybe throw in a can of stop-leak while I'm at it. Any comments yea or nay?

Missed that one but it must have been a Kramer line. He's my hero.

Your home boys from San Fran have always been good at sucking down dogs Mike. :yes:

Fuel squirting out the Schrader valve doesn't prove anything except you have some pressure. Testing the pressure using a gauge is mainly to determine if your fuel pressure regulator is working correctly with and w/o vacuum. Do that first, let us know what the pressure readings are with and w/o vacuum, then we can move on.

It's not an M1 - still an MJ - but you're getting closer. :yes: That thing must be a blast to drive in the boonies. Nice work. :cheers:

When is the last time you have changed your fuel filter? Have you checked fuel pressure with a gauge at the fuel rail port? And what are you driving?

Did you get this installed?

Thanks Knuck. Keep in mind that with a lift over ~2-1/2" you will most likely need an adjustable track bar to recenter the front axle - I did. With any lift you'll need some shim(s) behind the LCA's to correct the caster. Neither is a big deal.

1.25" Spidertrax spacers on the rear only, and 4.10 gears w. 31" tires w. the auto. Perfect!

Good eye Dirt-man. :cheers:

When I swapped in my MJ D44 axle with Trac-Lok (from an 89 MJ), I reused the same 9/16" u-bolts from the old D35 c-clip axle since they were brand new. Reused the same leaf spring plates too. :dunno:

Very little, less than a quart.

For what it's worth, all the D44 axle housings used on the MJ throughout the years, Trac-Lok / open diffs not withstanding, carried the same part number, 83503055. No housing differences, all had the same size axle tubes. Same for the XJs. I don't know about the 100's of other D44 axles used on non-Jeep vehicles.

It has an 80%+ approval rating by over 400 users on Amazon. Much more than a gimmick. Looks like a good unit to me.

If you want to try the pedal return spring later, shoot me a PM.

I wouldn't even think about it - get a new all alloy radiator, a two core will be fine. W/o knowing how old the original is why chance it? The prices on good quality all-aluminum rads have really come down lately. Get one with the filler cap and the bung for the temp sensor too.

I found this: Jeep TSB 05-51-92, Brake Lamps Stuck On/Speed Control Inop - Spring Kit, 4720825. It says 91, but it should work on any MJ brake pedal and shaft.

Good question.

Nope, you're not the only one Rob.........

Maybe fine, maybe not depending on the injectors and fuel rail you are using. The 96 and up engines use injectors that run 10psi higher than the earlier ones (31-39psi vs. 41-49psi), so you will need to swap to a later fixed fuel pressure regulator or go with an adjustable FPR from Hesco or similar.

What's a 1 Ton Dana 44 axle?

Krusty, I have this brake pedal return spring kit if you want to try it. I'll never use it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/46872-brake-pedal-return-spring/?hl=tsb Image Not Found

Anyone install a gauge there? Pics welcome. :cheers: