HOrnbrod

You either have factory or American (dealer installed) A/C, different hoses. I'd call These Guys and ask them or take off your old hose and have a duplicate made locally.

They ain't real until you install one and it functions. That's 50-50 with Dorman........ Post up if someone installs one. But yeah, small loss if it doesn't.

Screw Bookface.

Nice choice. Don't forget the chrome tow hooks. :cheers:

Lookin' good! But you need some MJ graphics Bo. Nothing screams the 80's like graphics and chrome. :chillin:

Bummer Gog. Sounds like you need to throw a rebuilt kit in the master cylinder.

How's the drag link / track bar geometry? Nearly parallel like below? If so, I would leave it alone.

Quoted from their website. http://www.redtek.com/English/product.asp?ID=53

I'm with you on this one, but I figured mentioning the other poster's comment might spark some additional thoughts. AFAIK, the torque converter is simply a fluid coupling...but it does affect pressure. I've never known anyone who has experienced a bad one (kinda one of those parts that hangs on forever). I do have an older (small) trans cooler on this rig and did replace the OD solenoid with a mopar part. if all else fails I suppose I could try a larger cooler. True, the torque converter lockup solenoid is applied in all the forward gears, so it shouldn't affect only OD if it was defective. BUT I have read of several cases online that replacing the TC lockup solenoid cured a no OD problem. A dirty/defective NSS has also been known to cause a no OD condition since the TCU signals go through it using different contacts for the 1-2-3-OD drive gears. Taking it apart and cleaning it up might help. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm

Oh jeeze. Just because we're in the stone age doesn't mean you have to come in here and flaunt the magic of your fire. Stone age - good one Dirt-man. :clapping: :clapping:

Very impressive. I have an Actron OBD scanner with a Chrysler OBD1 cable adapter. Can read both OBD1 and 2 sensors in real time, plus a whole lot more. Costs maybe $60 total.

Chrome nerf bars! :banana: :clapping:

The ohms reading indicates the solenoid coil is okay, but doesn't mean it's making/breaking every time. As you of course know. :yes: And yes, I think a bad TC would most likely cause other shifting issues. Did you replace the TC solenoid with a Mopar part? Do you have a tranny cooler on the 2000 AW4? I remember years ago I had rare intermittent TC lockup issues on real hot days, but it never happened again after I plumbed in a factory cooler.

I love intermittent electrical problems. NOT! Do you have an electrical FSM for your 2000 XJ? if so, I'd check for continuity (~14 ohms) from the TCU connector through the TC lockup solenoid coil using the electrical FSM for the correct pinouts. This will verify your wiring is good. Aftermarket AW4 solenoids are usually junk - lots of intermittent "no-workie" reports around. A bad TPS can also cause intermittent TCU lockup and/or shifting. Also the signal from the brake pedal to lock/unlock the TCU solenoid may not be getting there or is intermittent. Check the adjustment of this switch. Just throwing things out Jake. Good thread here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1125276 Good 2000 XJ TCU here if needed: http://www.ebay.com/itm/56041386AB-Jeep-Cherokee-Transmission-Computer-Control-Module-TCM-TCU-1999-2001-/151828161242?fits=Model%3ACherokee&hash=item2359a9e2da:m:mJ_m-kGfvETtAtLDtpnnaKw&vxp=mtr

Probably didn't use the correct shoulder bolts.........

Yes, the sheer distance is very impressive John. Plus the MPG of course. I have never been on a trip that long with my 91. The most I've done is a couple of runs to Boston and back from Bama, and averaged just over 23 MPG with the stroker cruising at 65-70 MPH w. 31's and 4.10's. I was pleasantly surprised and happy with that since 14 MPG is about what I average around town. And have never squeezed any more than 19 gallons in my 23.5 gal. tank either. But I'm not really surprised with your results since it's an HO. :thumbsup:

That's not for me - too big and heavy. My favorite Honda has always been the GB 500 Clubman. :drool: I kind of loosely followed it building the MZ Rotax 550 cafe. Image Not Found Obviously I don't tour much. :yes:

They make a great Cafe platform.

Never added a can before? You have to OPEN the service valve stem to allow the R12a into the A/C system, then CLOSE it up when charged. Open = Turn cw to the stop, Close = ccw to the stop. This should help: http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm

Pull the flywheel inspection plate off the bottom of the bell housing and see if it's laying in there. If not, try rotating the flywheel in neutral 360* and see if it can be found. Then install your new CPS w/o drilling out the mounting hole - you don't need that now. It'll probably fire up and run fine.

Wonder if he used an ammeter to determine that.

Did you match the brake pads as they came off? There is an inboard and outboard pad and they will go on backwards. This usually causes them to grab and squeal. Could cause dragging too.

Why don't you just buy the SAE adapter and change it out on your Renix? About $8.00 at the dealer. https://emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com/2012/08/02/run-ho-and-oversize-filters-on-your-renix/

Hell of a job by your new wife. She not only gave you a piece of art you'll always treasure, but also placed your MJ in second place after her. Sharp lady. :cheers:

Concur on the color. But it would be even nicer if the bike were a BMW R75/5 or R90 from the same era. :yes: I know nothing about Goldwings and have only ridden one once. I do remember it felt similar to a Beemer, maybe even smoother. Nice bike mate. :cheers: