HOrnbrod

Download the electrical manual then you can trace the wire out downstream from the relay. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

http://comancheclub.com/topic/46109-black-side-steps-three-rivers-mi/

If they do a 2-DR version, I'll be all over it. If not - meh......

Si. PITA keeping them synchronized too.

Yes there was. I just sold a NOS set of 3.73 gears for the D30 rear axle. They are found in the below vehicles, among others: 79-87 AMC Eagle 85-89 Ford Aerostar 66-71 Ford Bronco 67-74 International Scout 71-83 Jeep CJ5 66-75 Jeep CJ6 76-86 Jeep CJ7 81-86 Jeep Scrambler 67-73 Jeep Commando 71-73 Jeep Wagoneer 70-81 Volvo 142 70-81 Volvo 144 70-81 Volvo 164 73-93 Volvo 240 73-93 Volvo 242 75-93 Volvo 245 75-93 Volvo 260 75-93 Volvo 265

Gas tank skid is actually kinda useful. This is true even if you don't off-road. I put on a tank skid on awhile back (Thanks Charlie). All the frame holes were there, just had to install the missing nutserts. The front skid mounts the same way. All the holes are there, the factory nutserts may be there and stripped, or may be missing. Easy fix either way, drill the old ones out if there, and get the correct size nutserts to match the existing frame holes, and a cheap manual install tool.

I put mine in years ago. Don't use any aftermarket universal junk, or the Crown junk, they don't last. Use an OEM unit from an XJ. I was lucky and found a NOS unit. On my 91 the wiring connector was already there on the cross dash harness, so it was basically PnP if you use the antenna for an 86-96 XJ. It comes with the mounting bracket and built-in relay. Even the power antenna ground output from the factory radio is prewired into the connector. If you use an aftermarket radio, you will have to locate the power antenna output and run a wire to the connector - easy stuff. Pic of a rusty used one on Ebay

Get an XJ power antenna. Image Not Found

Sounds like a possible vacuum leak. How's the hoses going to the MAP sensor and EGR valve?

Meh. Mitsubishi Corp. is only #9 in Japan, and not even in the top 200 worldwide. Guess who's the #1 revenue generator? Freakin' Walmart.

I saw a procedure on one of the Jeep forums where it showed that on the older systems, you have to do a little grinding with a Dremel tool on the HI side fitting for clearance. No problem for the 91's and up as the plumbing is laid out differently.

The LOW side service port is the larger tubing; the HI side is the smaller.

There's still a old starter/alternator shop in the next town so I stopped by this morning on the way to Lowes with my old Mopar brush assembly. He had both pieces in stock, "offshore" brand, and the part numbers crossed to the Mopar numbers in his book (83503671 Brush Holder & 83503670 Field Brush Assembly) and charged me $19 total. It was cake putting the new brush assembly in; didn't need a socket, just my fingers and they popped right on. Before reassembly I field stripped the starter and cleaned / degreased it, polished up the commutator, and lubed the gears and bearings. When bench tested through the solenoid, and it spun right up and ran smoothly. Good for another 25 years. :) And Jeepman, thanks for the parts link, nice site - bookmarked. :cheers:

One or more bad bulb sockets can cause back feeding problems like this. I'd start by pulling your tail lights, un-twist the bulb sockets, then taking out the bulbs one by one and see if the back feeding symptoms go away or improve.

Do the above first. If no improvement, if you have an aftermarket radio, try unplugging the back connector and see if that helps.

THIS is the correct part, I'm sure of it. Comes with the brush plate with the 2 neg. brushes attached with the correct springs, and the 2 pos. brush assembly . Will order after I locate one a bit cheaper, and should have done my homework better. :doh: Will follow-up after I install.

On Ebay HERE. $8.50 shipped. EDIT: This part fits the end cap and the mounting holes line up, so it's definitely for a Mitsubishi PMGR model starter. However I just looked up the factory part number for the brush holder (83503671), and it shows only two brushes. The p/n for the other two brushes is 83503670. The Ebay brush holder I bought has all four brushes. Also the brushes on the factory brush holder do not appear to be as long as the Ebay aftermarket one. So maybe the Ebay part isn't correct for our Jeep Mitsubishi starter. I know there were variations for different applications. This could explain why I can't mount this unit over the commutator. I've done lots of starter brush holder plate replacements in the past and never had this problem. So I'd hold off buying this unit Frank until I figure it out.

It's been awhile, but Greyhound Package Express is ideal for shipping large packages like this.

Way too much spring tension for cardboard Jim. Well, I guess no one has been intimate with these starters before. Everyone just buys a new starter now. No problem - I'll figure it out. :cheers:

The way I used to do starters like this Jim is to push each brush back until the spring end can be seen on the outside, then slide a sheet metal shim between the spring and brush where the red line is below. This holds the brush out and is usually enough room to get the assembly over the commutator, then pull the shims. But there's a smaller diameter ball bearing in the way on top of the commutator at the end of the armature on these foolish Mitsu starters. I can get the brushes out far enough so go over the ball bearing, but can't get the damn brushes back another 1/4" to slip on to the armature commutator. And the spring tension is tremendous. It's starting to piss me off..........

I've done a ton of these in the past, but never the Mitsubishi starter our MJ's use, and I'm stumped. My starter was intermittent, so I pulled the starter apart and sure enough the old brushed were worn down to about 1/4" long. I replaced it with a new one, now I want to refurbish the old one for use a spare. Since the brush leads are spot welded to the holder, the whole brush set and holder must be replaced as a unit, which is pictured below. The problem is I can't figure out a way to move all four brushes back enough to make room to slide over the armature commutator. I could remove the individual brush springs, but then once the commutator was in I'd have no room to replace the springs. There must be a trick for these starters to retract the brushes that I obviously don't know. The only thing I can think of is to use a tapered shaft to push through the opening closely followed by the armature commutator. Anyone installed a new brush plate in the Jeep starter motor?

You are correct. The reason is that constant 12V to the PNK pin 4 wire of the radio connector comes from a multi-splice fused by the 10A DOME fuse. The ignition switched 12V to the VIO/WHT pin 5 wire is fused by the RADIO fuse. Wire color codes may be different on earlier rigs, but the radio connector pin numbers above are the same.

You have had a busy day that didn't end well mate.

Well, I could say typo, but I'd be lying. :brows: And I had a 95 too.

96 was the first year for the XJ air bag column.